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check the connectors to the alternator.

Ford recently replaced my alternator (for the 4th time) as I left, the battery light came on. Over the next day they checked all grounds for shorts, and all connectors. they found the following connectors to be damaged.

CRK1144

RDCNTC104

from the outside, they looked fine, but the inside were "mangled" according to the dealership. They finally decided this may have been what caused my alternator to fail. Since then, my car (electrically)is better than it EVER has, which IMO means it may have been the issue that was allways overlooked.

This may not be everyones problem, but after loosing my car for a week, this was the final outcome.
 

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CRK1144

RDCNTC104

which ones are those?
 

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humm. Theres 4 wires total

3 in one plug
Gray - bridges between the coil field and the regulator... not really sure what for, they sans'd it on Zetecs
Red - Voltage sense line
Black - for the battery light in dash

and then the main power line. My lights kept intermittently dimming and then were dimming consistantly over the past couple weeks. The voltage sense wire was seeing resistance from somewhere, supposedly they go bad frequently along their route from the alternator to the battery... so I cut the wire, put a ring terminal on the end of it from the plug side and connected it to the main power output post. Now the regulator's actually seeing what the alternator is putting out, not what the fuse/relay box says its putting out.
 

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This weekend while out of town I blew up my battery. Acid all over the engine bay. My alternator went and fried the battery...at least that is my theory...that or a short somewhere. Anyway, after a few hundred dollars, a new alternator and battery, 5 hours + of work and a shopping center parking lot I got the car running well enough to get back home 2 hours away. Now the car is pretty much running ok but something isnt quite right. The gauge and headlights flicker dim and bright. The pulsing is faint though and there is no battery light and so far no new 9318 DTC. I think there is a bad ground or short somewhere but until I get a TRUSTWORTHY mechanic to look at it I wont know for certain. I did find this battery wire relocation recall thing and with this post found by my GF I think I am narrowing the search. This is my second alternator replaced (I have 92,000 miles) and was on my factory original battery. There are pics in the ohio chapter of both the acid all over and the baking soda bath the engine bay recieved afterwards. Needless to say the car is now a mess.

That said- will the moving of the red wire to the power lead take care of my problem or is there a much bigger issue here? I dont want to mask the problem or "trick" the car. I want it fixed. So if I move the red wire to the main output of the alternator does that make the regulator read exactly what the alt. is putting out or is it just a bypass sorta thing? Also, is this the wire that tells the diagnostic mode how much the alternator is charging? I get A= 10 -11 when idle and it jumps to 14-15 when driving. I need help ASAP on this as I do not want to drive my car till it is fixed. cant afford another battery and alternator!!
 
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