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Discussion Starter #1


If you have any questions let me know. I will try to develop this a little furthor as time goes by. A link to the POT you need, is here.

-WolfDrive
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Ok I'm an old roder and not quite up on all the controlls.
What is it the you are overiding and how does it produce more power?
 

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you are overiding the IAT (intake air temp) and ECT (engine coolant temp) sensors to make them read lower then what they really are. This is not something you drive around with constantly. Also it's recommended you use high octane gas. Basically the car's computer will advance the ignition timing because it's reading lower temps and help you produce a few ponies... 15 is optimistic but there is an improvement.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
OK so i have the pot in my hand where do the wires go on it, theres like 40 connections!(6 on one end , 1 on the other) thanks
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The side with 6 connecters... 3 per level is the side illustrated in the image... one circuit per level, doesnt matter which one. -WD
 

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Won't both levels, circuits be at the same resistance? I read on the contour board I believe that the optimum values for the two are like 20-30K different. When I do it soon I will be using two seperate pots. If I am wrong please correct me.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I dont think it could hurt anything to do two separate ones... I'd like to hear how it turns out. If you're right about 30k difference, and still wanted to stick to one POT, you could put a resistor inline with the POT and that would setup the difference, then wire in a switch that would complete the circuit with zero resistance and you're set.... but please let us know how two POTs works out for you. -WD
 

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Well did it today and OMG. I couldn't believe the diference 17 bucks could make. I checked again and the contour guys said 37K for IAT and around 25K for the ECT net 16 horsies. I used the two seperate pots and everything works fine. I also used a "project box" from Radio shack which turned out really nice. <wishing I had a digital camera> Even though I have to its hard to turn it off when I drive.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Has anyone used a 100K one yet? I have one sitting on my desk but, I not sure if I want to do the mod with that sized POT...

Also what box did you pick up PDITTY that made it easier for you?
 
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What pre-caution's should be done before this mod? I have an ATX and really want to do this mod. I came across some Redline Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid and was wondering if maybe I should flush my stock stuff out and replace it with this stuff before I do this mod? Maybe a new filter too. I have 53,000mi on it any way's and really don't want to hurt my motor or transmission. But for 15 horse I will change the fluid. I also have some Redline Water Wetter left over from my truck I think I'm going to put in the Cougar which should drop the temp 10 degrees with 50/50 water and antifreeze. What other caution's should you be aware of before doing this mod?

Thanks for any help!
 
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Does this trick only work with the V-6 or will it work with a 1-4.
 

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When do you use this mod? If I use it everyday whats going to result? Provided I use premium of course. Its very interesting, is this the same thing a superchip (or other chips)) do electronically? Thanks guys!
 

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It will work with I4. The sensors may be in different locations, but it can be done.

As for running it all the time... I'm just using a 100K Ohm resistor right now. 24/7, No pot. I don't even have the temp sensor installed anymore, just the resistor. As it is, my car always thinks that the IAT temp is exactly -20C. I've been running like this for 2 weeks now with no CEL, and no problems. I haven't tried running this with regular gas and I don't plan on it.

The car is definitely more responsive like this. Torque steer is harder to control at WOT, I find myself spinning the tires by accident, and it now pulls pretty hard all the way to 6750rpm, instead of dying at 6000. It's also less affected by the outside temperature, because the ECU doesn't have to (over-)compensate by retarding the ignition timing anymore (to prevent pinging with 87 gas). Cold air is still better than hot air because its denser, but this helps

This mod will also do things that a mail-order superchip won't. It will enrich the A/F mixture slightly, which only a custom-burned chip can do. It's obviously less precise than a custom chip and it's cannot replace a good dyno-tune by any means, but I believe that it will provide all the gains (maybe more) of a mail-order pre-programmed chip for about $0.49.
 

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I think I lost about 1mpg. I'm getting 23mpg now, could've sworn I was up in the 24s last month..
 

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were are these sensors located
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I will post where they are located shortly... need to get my digi cam out and take some pictures... for those interested, the ECT modification does not work because I was working off of the wrong sensor... doesnt effect those who dont know where that sensor was in the first place... if I decide the ECT mod is worth doing then I'll let you all know... otherwise do the IAT mod because its safer... I am having problems and such with the ECT mod. -WD
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Is it ok to use 18 guage wire for this? I though I read to use 16 or thicker, but I already have a spindle of 18 so I'd rather not have to buy more.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Maybe the question we should ask is "how does the negativily affect the car?" There is a reason for it to be the way it is... if the only thing is to prevent knock at 87, I'm in, just don't want the computer blowing up because of it.

Any ideas?

Matt
 
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Discussion Starter #20
I've been using it since the day it was first mentioned and never have had a problem with it
the ECT mod however is questionable and I'm toying with the idea of telling people NOT TO MESS WITH THE ECT sensor... its just not worth it... the IAT mod gives the better horsepower and more stable... I do recommend the IAT mod, its safe and effective. -WD
 
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