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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Actually almost all my problems in just 1 video

My car in a nutshell after i fixed 4 other things. Ugh



I can't keep up with her


Video of me spinning the wheel is in first gear, but does the same in all gears.


Have to think about how the heck im gonna solve this transaxle problem :'(

Probably gonna need an engine support bar? And some good jack stands, transmission jack and ofc a normal jack.



VideoCapture_20210310-163544.jpg VideoCapture_20210310-222348.jpg

Dropbox link for 2 videos

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The moosing sound is probably something with the iac. The tapping sound has something to do with hla or oil if im right? I primarily just wanted to share my situation and pain.
 

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Tapping does not sound normal. Could be loose spark plug or rod knock coming.

Clunk might be trans mount or control arm, i don't think diff but maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hpw can it be control arm? Thankss for your reply btw.
Clunk is less when going straight.

The tapping starts when engine is warmer? It dissapears at 4k?
 

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Hello, the noise of the wheel I would not be calm without taking the car to a place where I can lift it and look at the transmission and the arm as well as all the bushings and look for loose or loose screws.

It's easy, you just have to have some good elevators and time, well, and a place to do it.

As far as the engine noise has given me the impression that before accelerating, at idle, the engine was missing a cylinder, in this case the easy thing is:
1st you look if there is something loose above and below (sensor connectors, sensors, screws, plates, ...)
2nd check if the spark plugs are okay
3rd if current reaches the spark plugs
4th you remove the oil from the engine and add a little more to clean without putting the plug, and all the oil that you have removed you pass through a medium or fine cloth and look for pieces of metal or filings

If there is no metal in the oil, congratulations, it is surely easy to solve.

If there are pieces of the engine in the oil then I'm sorry but I still encourage you to change the engine or have it to repair it because this car is now worth very little but in the next few years when everything is electric this car will be revalued.
 

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Without knowing your driving style my first guess would be the CV joint in the axle is destroyed if it's doing this in all gears, plus it sounds "outside" the car and not internal. Unless you did a money shift or something silly like try to shift into 6th.

The knocking sounds more catastrophic and the signs of a spun bearing:
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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Looks to me like you have killed the differential in the transaxle. Assuming it's a manual trans?

The clattering noise sounds to me like basic gear rollover noise. If it goes away when you step on the clutch pedal, that's definitely it. If it clatters when the clutch pedal is down, then it's more likely an engine issue.
 

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Looks to me like you have killed the differential in the transaxle. Assuming it's a manual trans?

The clattering noise sounds to me like basic gear rollover noise. If it goes away when you step on the clutch pedal, that's definitely it. If it clatters when the clutch pedal is down, then it's more likely an engine issue.
I know we say the gear rollover noise is normal here a lot, but I had my TOB/slave, master cylinder, clutch and flywheel replaced by a shop last year after having that chatter for a while (with an M-Factory LSD) and that chatter noise is completely gone. Everything was recently installed previously except the master being 20 years old but the "new" TOB had failed and spit fluid everywhere.

Not saying it can't be normal, but in my experience it went away after replacing the only old part, the master cylinder, so it may be a warning sign. Clutch feel is significantly better now, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks to me like you have killed the differential in the transaxle. Assuming it's a manual trans?

The clattering noise sounds to me like basic gear rollover noise. If it goes away when you step on the clutch pedal, that's definitely it. If it clatters when the clutch pedal is down, then it's more likely an engine issue.
It is indeed a manual transmission.
Tapping noise is still there in neutral and or when clutch pedal is pressed down. Looks like it was coming from engine. It looks a bitcoming from valvecover (or lower), from my recording position, it would be RH side
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
20210330_171514.jpg

So I removed the gearbox of my second car (for parts).
Still dont get the lh halfshaft out though. Any tips?

Also, someone familiar with aligning the subframe? Workshop manual says so and uses alignment plugs.
 

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I think that side shaft is supposed to just slide out easily. A slide hammer would probably pop it right out. Is this the damaged transmission or a good one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Now the subframe is in and the transmission.

The insulators are a pain in the *ss, still working on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok so now the transmission is in and works fine. Only problem is that it makes contact with one of the lower control arm bolts on the left side.

Took one out and changed it with another used one, but problem was still there.
20210419_180002.jpg


You think this rubber is done or usable?

20210419_180231.jpg
 

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The control arm bolts touching the transmission is a common problem. The factory installed those bolts from the top. You probably installed them from the bottom. Use shorter bolts or cut the excess length off the one thats touching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Never touched the bolts, can i flip the nut and bolt instead of removing excessive length?
Still ordered a new rubber bushing.

Thanks for the info thats it is a common problem.
Could it be one of the reasons why my transmission crashed?

It also feels and sounds that engine is swinging around a bit in corners.
 

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There's probably not enough room to flip the bolt. That's why they get installed upside down in the first place.
Do you have the front and rear roll restrictors installed?
 

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The bolt needs either the subframe dropped or the trans out to flip it.
Its actually that way so if the nut falls off, gravity doesnt pull the bolt out and release the control arm
 
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