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How to: Walbro pump install on RETURN style cars

You need these parts:
Ford part #
Ford part #F8RZ9C85AA
Walbro pump for 86-93 Mustang (which pump you get depends on the mods you plan on making, the small 155 for nearly stock or stock cougs, 190 for mild mods NA 3.0l , and the 255 for supercharged or turbo cars.)
Sound deadener sheeting (the bigger the pump is the louder it is)

Tools needed are:
One other capable person other than yourself
2 chisels
2 hammers
1 pair of good wire crimpers and stripers
2 soldierless uncovered female terminal ends for 18-20 gauge wire
1 pair of medium channel lock pliers
1 pair of good tin snips


First remove the back seat by first pulling up on the center piece with the cup holder in it. Then pull up firmly on the set in the front (its kind hard but it will pop out). Remove the set and place out of way.
Remove the large rubber grommet in the center and pull the wires through it a little ways ( this give you room to work and it keeps you from messing with it later. Take tin snips and cut four or five four to six inch slits in the sheet metal to the back of the car. This will give you the room you need to take the assembly out seeings how the ford engineers couldn't line up the hole over the pump. Remove the gas cap from the outside of the car. Open hood. Remove small black cap over shrader valve (looks like a tire pressure valve underneath the throttle body on the chrome fuel line). Stick something small in it to remove any pressure from the fuel system (if you don't do this you will have a small mess of fuel when you remove the lines from the tank. Return to the car and remove the metal ring holding the pump assembly in by using a chisel and prying it out. Carefully squeeze the sides of the small base of the fuel lines and pull firmly on the colored part of the fuel line to remove them. Remove wiring by squeezing the wire on the connector and pulling up on the plug. Remove pump assembly very carefully as such that you do not mess up the gas gauge assembly. Remove pump from assembly by pulling firmly. Remove wiring plug from pump. Throw pump away. Cut wiring plug from pump assembly. install two new plug ends on wires. Install wires on new pump. Red wire is positive, black is negative (DUH). Install pump by pushing the outlet firmly into the receiver. Twist into place. Install new filter-sock. Put new green gasket on. Install pump assembly. Put new ring in place. This is where it get tricky. The other person that you got has to get one chisel and hammer. You have to have one too. At the same time you must chisel the new ring in place from opposite sides. Move around the ring after every few hits to make sure that the ring is going on correctly and evenly. Make sure that the ring goes all the way to the stops. Once that is done you are ready to put the fuel lines in. Put the fuel lines in the correct holes, (red in red, white in white(DUH)) Push the wire clip on. Bend the sheet metal back in place. Install the rubber boot as well as you possibly can. Put new sound deadener down. Install seat. Put gas cap back on. Put cover over shrader valve. Start car. This may take a minute because you have to get the fuel pressure up first. Now you are ready to make more power with your coug, without burning it down.
 

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RE:How to: Walbro pump install on RETURN style cars

just curious, is there a size thats -too- big? like the medium sized one on a regular car...would it flow too much and mess up or just have to work less than the smaller one and perhaps last longer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
RE:How to: Walbro pump install on RETURN style cars

No you cannot have to big of a pump, BUT,BUT,BUT I did run into a problem on my fiances car. I put the biggest one on her car because the pump was going out and she is getting a turbo 3.0L next spring. The problem being that the check engine light comes on. There is a sensor that checks flow return on the return style cougars. If you get too much return, if your pump was too big and pumping way too much and the regulator was returning it, you get a CEL. I have yet to figure out how to fake the computer out on this one. So, you can't put to big of a pump on a return style car but you might get a CEL.
 

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would a fuel regulator solve the problem ? Might be handy when the turbo goes in too...G.
 

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This post is almost five years old, yo.
 

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This post is almost five years old, yo.
Lol ...so it is. Still; with so many members eyeing up a turbo setup, it may be handy to hear from anyone who solved the problem...G.
 

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OK guys i'm going ahead with this pump install. Anyone who knows if the CEL or PCM code flag is on cougars only or can be avoided, please post up. This is going in a return style contour not a Cougar btw..thanks..G.
 

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Really old post bump because I was searching for this how-to and wanted to clear something up. Here is the pump as mentioned in the top post:




I've never heard of any issue with the 255 Walbro pump. I've been running it for years now and never had a CEL for the extra flow back to the tank. I've run it NA and with the supercharger kit.

Here is one post from Fastcougar on the install that might be helpful for those that are going through the install. http://www.newcougar.org/forums/problems/118174-walbro-255-lph-pump-install-problems-help.htm

To buy the pump kit that comes with the correct pump sock and the connector you need to splice in go here: P533 255 LPH High Performance Pump Kit (255 liters per hour) from Fuel-Pumps.net

The pump part number is: GSS340 in case the line above goes dead in the future. Keep in mind the link above is for a kit not just the pump. You need the kit with the sock and pigtail to install this.
 

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have never gotten a cel in my contour with the larger fuel pump. also there is no electrical connection to the fpr so there is no way for the PCM to monitor. now if it was a returnless system the PCm can monitor the fuel flow. but with the walbro pump I don't think that it could control the fuel flow and that would most likely cause a cel.
 
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