New Cougar Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
El Mucho Post Whoro
Joined
·
12,140 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tools required:
10mm socket driver
Drill (Good enough to drill through metal) and drill bit (slightly smaller than the bolts that came with the bar)
Punch
A buddy, maybe two.
Flathead screwdriver (Smallish sized)

Instructions:

Open your hood. ;) The strut towers are furthest from the front of the car, and on either side above the wheelwells. They're round and have a rubber boot on top. Grab your OMP bar. Fit one of the circular mounting brackets over the top of the strut tower. I suggest starting with the driver's side, due to the AC tubing that you'll have to nudge out of the way. Below is a pic:



The next part is where you might need a buddy. ;)
The adjusting nut for the bar is incredibly difficult to turn when the bar is not fully installed, and the bar is pre-set a bit longer than a perfect fit. So, you need to push hard and force the other mounting bracket around the top of the passenger side strut tower. While pushing on the bar, someone else needs to hold the AC tube away from the OMP bar.



Careful. The rubber boot on top of the strut tower will catch on and under the bracket. Use a small flathead screwdriver to 'pull the rubber boot back up from under the bracket. Careful not to rip or cut the boot with the screwdriver. (I didn't experiment with removing the boot before placing the OMP on, possibly oversight on my behalf. ;))

There, now it's on. Now, you have to secure it. Take your punch and center it in each hole. You're going to mark your drill points with the punch. You have two choices from here after you've punched it. You can drill it with the bar on (Which is what I did), or you can take the bar off, drill it, and go through the hassle of putting it back on. I chose laziness this time since there were no real drawbacks. :)

Drill each hole. It takes some work, and be careful when you drill. You don't want to miss the hole by a centimeter or the bolts won't go in right. Once you've drilled each hole, you're ready. If you removed the bar to drill, replace the bar with the above steps. I suggest that, for structural purposes, you do the outside holes first. Put a bolt in each one and torque it down with your 10mm socket driver. Then do the remaining holes. Voila, you're done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
i just did this today as well. what a pain in ths @ss. man the ac pipe was always in the way and i had a little trouble getting the rubber boot thing to stay in place. but after about a 20 minute install i took her for a spin. man it feels alot better. like the car holds to the road alot better. i drilled it with the bar on. i think this is alot easier. plus i drilled with a little bit smaller bit that the screw. i think it came out perfect. i was a little freaked when i had to drill(i knew it had to be done) but it came out great all in all. worth the 89 bucks. one word of advice. if you are going to rpaint this bar. be prepared to sand your butt off. this thingis powder coated and very thick. i sanded from 5 pm till about 9 pm and i still wasnt done all that well. but i painted it and it came out great . ill post pics once i on my other computer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
My bar should be here any day now. Do either of you guys know the size drill bit you used to drill the holes? If so, let me know. Thanks in advance.




Tony
 

·
El Mucho Post Whoro
Joined
·
12,140 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The new batch of OMPs are red, but I didn't sand mine so I couldn't tell you. Also, I don't know what size bit we used. I can ask DEVIOUSDEV but I don't think the pouch of drill bits he has tells you what size each one is... maybe its on the bit. Anyway, just find a bit that looks like it would be the size of the bolt if the bolt had no threads. :)
 
G

·
hehe... sorry you had to sand sooo much... but here's my advice to those of you that want the bar a different color... YES... you'll have to sand all the paint/powder coating off of the bar.... otherwise the paint won't stick... and it'll start to bubble up after a while too... but there's a trick to this!!! :)

go to your autoparts store, and pick up a can of Aircraft Remover (it's a high-power paint, rust, etc remover).... spray it on... all over the painted parts... really really really well... then use a wire brush to take all the bubbled up paint off... do this twice... (takes about 30 mins max)... THEN use a rotary paint/rust remover on the end of your drill and grind the rest of the paint off, and lightly go back over the rest of the bar (takes about another 30 mins)... once you're done, take a tack cloth and remove all dust, particles, etc, and proceed to put a layer of high-temp paint on the bar... do this about three to four times, until you get the finish you're looking for (you may have to sand lightly with 1500 grit sand paper to remove small impressions) but always make sure you've got all the dust, etc off the bar before you repaint... then once you get the finish the way you like it, wet sand very very lightly with 2000 grit paper and put a thin layer of high-temp clearcoat over the bar... (this process takes about 5 hours combined).... then... let it sit for at LEAST 24 hours at room temperature to allow the paint to cure... and once it's completely cured, put it on (if you put it on TOO early... the bolts and the rubber piece that seals the hood will cause the paint to come off with the heat from the engine... which means you have to start alll over again... trust me... i know from experience!!!!!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,568 Posts
thanks guys, this is what it looks like . ill see if i can get some better pictures later
 
G

·
i was lazy and had a friend sandblast it...then i had it powder coated blue which now it will never bubble...heat will never affect it.. and the paint is all over..even on some of the screws....it cost about $20 and all together takes about 2 hours....about 30-45 sandblast and 45-60 to powder coat...i would definetly recomend this if you have the little extra cash..or see how much it is around your area to be done.
 
G

·
Where do you live Cru? I would love to get my bar and some other items powdercoated. If anyone knows of anyone in the Michigan area that is good with paint...I want to get the rest of my interior painted, and it looks like Crispy is always busy, so I don't want to bug her. And I want to paint some engine components. And finally, I will be getting my Aerogear hood and mirrors painted eventually. (I was supposed to get the hood at CF, but had no viable method of transporting it home, so it might have to wait a bit).
Anyways, any advise about paint prices, shops, etc. would be sweet!! One more thing on the OMP bar...I did it about a year and a half ago. The bolts will come loose if your body flexes alot when you drive. Also, if you installed it on any type of incline, it will be on crooked. I took mine off to repaint it and install it better, and it didn't stay in the holes very tight, so I went to bigger bolts. But I was told to use bolts with rubber in the threading? Anyone ever heard of these? They are supposed to stay tight once they are cranked in all of the way, the rubber keeps them from backing out of the hole or coming loose? My friend used them with his Steeda bar in his Mustang Vert. Anyways, may be a good thing to look into if you want a tight fit...Later
Nic
 
G

·
I never heard of bolts with rubber on them but you might want to use a lock nut. They have nylon in the threads that binds them and prevents them from turning. You could also use lockwashers or try a thread-locking compound.
 
G

·
Hehe, nylon...that is probably what I was thinking. I was tired when I wrote that, rubber was all that came to mind. But yeah...they hold in place and won't come lose when from driving around putting strain on the bolts, like uneven roads, vibration, etc.
Thanks for the help there ;)
Nic
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top