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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
PLEASE READ WHOLE THING VERY CAREFULLY.....
alright first off i bought an electric oil gauge from summit racing(autometer). it came with a light and all the hardware necessary including the sender and a 1/4 NTP fitting. your gonna need alot of tools including sockets most likely a 10 mil and some others. also pliers and a 10 mil ratcheting box end. also 15 mil wrench. 13 mil wrench and a 16. also a set of vice grips helps alot. this is most definitely not for the light hearted. it took me a while to do all this right. but i did do other stuff as well like change my rotors and pads. if your not pretty mechanically inclined and this how-to confuses u then your better off putting the sender in the head. there are other threads on here for doing that. i remote mounted my sender in the main oil gallery in the line that is RIGHT after the pump and before the oil filter. basically i'll know if my engine starves for oil before it will. it is a very responsive spot and seems to work very well. honestly the process took a while because i ef-ed up and i was working slowly. i started at 4 on wednesday and worked till about 11. not straight but stopped then. and then from 1 to about 12 on Thursday. again not straight breaks and food and home depot runs. i also did several other things along the way. if i had only done the gauge it would have been about 5 or 6 hours maybe. maybe less if no screw ups are incurred. this how-to should help the next fellow trying to do this right....... :thumbsup:


home depot supplies.
go to the plumbing section with all the fittings. get a NTP fitting with the name A-778 on it. its a green top package and is a 3/8 to a 1/4 NTP fitting. this is what goes into the block. then get a A-30 90 degree elbow. it has a pink topped package. it has a 1/4 compression fitting already on the end. this screws into the block fitting. then get an A-16 1/4 to 1/4. it also has a pink topped package. it also has the correct fitting as well. this screws onto the 1/4 NTP that came with the sender unit. also get a small amount of copper ice maker line. all these cost about 11 dollars together. also don't forget the teflon tape if u don't have any. then go to advanced or another auto parts store and get a quart of oil(same as u have now) and teflon paste or pipe thread compound. its in a small tube. locktight probably wont work.


now the fun begins. lift the car on stands or ramps and chock wheels. under car look at a/c compressor. there are 3 10 mils holding it to the block. take them loose but don't remove. then take a 3/8 inch wrench and put in the square peg of the tensioner and loosen the belt.

here.



then remove the rest of the a/c bolts. u will feel it being held in by something. there is a 10 mil holding the lines to the hard metal coolant line its very difficult to get on this easily. i put both hands down there and held the ratchet with one and turned with other.


next go back under and GENTLY move the a/c compressor to the side and rest on the subframe/ power steering line bracket. move enough to see the stock sender and the plug. next take a 10 mil ratcheting box end and remove the 2 nuts on the a/c heat shield. if u don't have a ratcheting box end than go buy one. it will take FOREVER otherwise. take out the oil filter slowly to drain oil the keep upright and set aside. take out the plug in the block. it is in there VERY tight and u will have to lock a wrench on the allen key to get it loose. take the A-778 fitting and cover threads in teflon PASTE. DONT use teflon tape. it wont ground or seal right. u should be seeing this basically.


here comes the part that took me the longest. use teflon tape on the threads of the elbow and screw into the fitting in the block. its best to thread the compression nut onto the elbow first while screwing it in the block so u dont mess the threads all up like i did and have to make another trip to home depot. the block fitting is a 17 or 16 and the body of the elbow is a 16 or 15. the compression nuts are all 13's. point elbow end towards driver side. then take the copper line and cut to length. put behind the headers/cats. above and around the top of the oil filter boss. then down to the fitting. make sure it doesn't contact block anywhere and is basically in mid air under the car. it took forever to get the bend right so the compression fitting would actually thread. you may have to adjust the position of the 90 degree elbow to accomplish this. assemble the 1/4 to 1/4 with compression fitting to the supplied 1/8 to 1/4 fitting on the sender unit. using lots of teflon tape on all the threads. it should go like this sender, supplied NTP, 1/4 to 1/4 with compression fitting. then take the nut and compression fitting and put on end of the copper line. you should see something like this.


the line and sender should look like this. copy bends as much as possible.


make sure the compression fittings are tight on the elbow and the sender. put oil filter back on. put some oil in car if needed. run sender behind dipstick tube and connect using teflon tape or sealant. tighten all connections and then run line so it doesn't touch block ANYWHERE and make sure it doesn't touch dipstick tube. it will rub and break. then zip tie to the coolant bypass tube on the top for rubber mounting. i zip tied the sender and rest of line to the line from my oil separator. this way everything still moves but its rubber mounted so no binding occurs. double check everything doesn't touch.




top view


start engine with out anything back in place and make sure nothing leaks. make sure the end of the line where the sender is points down so no air can be trapped in the line. its best to do this before a oil change. remember any crap in line will be caught by the oil filter because this is before the oil filter. make sure no metal shavings are in the line. make sure there is ground on the sender. do this by taking volt meter and checking continuity between the sender body and engine or bolt. start to put everything back together once your sure everything is right and how u want it. put the a/c compressor back in. put the heat shield in. put 10 mil a/c line bolt back in. put serpentine belt back on using 3/8 ratchet. run a line (18 gauge) from the sender to the car. run thru fender into grommet in the door. run behind the dash. hook up all wires. if any questions on wiring just pm me and ask about it. i also put my light on the dimmer line from the head unit. thats also where i got the ground and the ignition positive for the gauge. most of the dash must be taken out so the line can be run. refer to how-to for removing dash. make sure everything is right and it all works. i also put my new brakes on at the same time.

nice huh?

don't mess any of the compression fittings up, and if u do then replace the other end it screws to too. like i messed up the threads on the hard line to the elbow and i tried forever to get it right. i pulled it out and figured it was ef-ed so i went and got a new one .basically if u change the compression fitting on the same part it wont work again. but if u compress it once and take it off and put it back the same way then it will be fine. take your time doing this. you don't want to be back under there for a small leak or u definitely don't want the copper line rubbing though and leaking ALL your oil everywhere. also cut line with tubing cutter if available, if not like me, use a hack saw but make sure the copper is out of the line and its not covering the end on the line. make sure the cut is square and not too much line is sticking past any compression fitting. you will be very happy and proud when all this is done. my idle pressure at start is about 75 or so then at driving cold its about 75- 100 once it warms some it will get to about 25 idle and 50 between 2000 and 3000 above that its about 75 all the time. the point is really responsive. its very good and i like it alot. feel free to pm me about ANY install questions. oh and enjoy. this was a fairly fun project but can be a headache. a big case of beer would probably help but none was available at the time......:beer: have fun and good luck. :biggrin:
 

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well done..
 

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Nice job and nice pics...but I have a couple of questions:

You insist that teflon tape shouldn't be used at the block because it prevents a good ground. If that is so, why do you use it on the very next connection? The electrical connection is between the block and the sender, regardless of how far apart they are.

It is much easier to run wires than copper tubing. Why did you mount the sender on the other side of the car instead of simply running wire to the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the block is aluminum and the fitting is brass. the disimilar metals prevents a good seal/connection with the block unless the teflon sealant is used. also u could strip the block with teflon tape alone which would be a disaster....if u tap the connection behind the a/c then u either cant put the a/c back on or u have to do what i did . there is very very little room behind the a/c and the elbow barely fits. this is the only GOOD spot for the presure sender. the reading in the head is not responsive and it doesnt tell u a damn thing. this spot is so sensitive that the guage goes up imediatly when i touch the gas. basically its RIGHT after the pump and before the oil filter in the gallery. it works good. also the brass brass connection work becasue the teflon is pushed to the back of the threads and still make good contact becasue the metals are the same. even the directions for the guage say to use sealant on the brass thread that goes into the engine. hope this helps....
 

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Originally posted by: CougarRida
I thought the sender goes right into the block and on the other side of the engine right under the throttle body area? I also have a Electric Oil Pressure Gauge that I havent installed because im still a bit confused.
Nope, that would be installed the sender in the head if you put it in that location.

This is an amazing how-to! Thank you for doing it!

Darrell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah u use the liquid for the engine adapter. but use tape on the brass fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
seriously.... can we get this stickied. or put in the how-to archives. i worked hard.......cmon please.......moderators?!
 

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I think this is probably the most a newer member has done for everyone in a long time :thumbsup:. Nice write up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks everyone. the other day i changed my oil and i noticed the line had come back in contact with the round dipstick tube. i tried to make it so it wouldn't but i don't want to bend the line anymore than it is. does anyone think that it could rub threw. i know it would on the engine but i mean smooth round to smooth round. it shouldn't, but does anyone think it could. i may try putting a piece of rubber around the line where it contacts. but i donno. maybe..... what do yall think? i get my carbon fiber mounting cup tomorrow so ill take some pics of it all inside.

and lets sticky this so other noobs and people who havent done this can do some homeowrk and have a guide to help them. this way they wont have to search and it will never go away......:biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
as promised here are some pics of the inside of the install. ill get a good day pic tomarow to show y'all. sorry for the huge pics. my camera is a 6.1 megapixel and the res is insane the how-to pics are half size. these r full size. the guage pod is really a very nice piece of real carbon fiber from autometer. id have to sya its rather hot and shall show a day pic tommarow for the hotness.





 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
here is a pic of my guages in the night with a flash. looks hot right?


and......


tell me what u think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so yesterday i was looking under my car and i saw it was leaking. so i pulled everything back out and the compression fitting didn't seat right. so i went and got another. then i figured out what was messing up all my elbows.....part of the block was rubbing on the threads of the elbow when being tightened. so it leaked if not fully tightened but ran the threads off when tightened. so i decided to ditch the whole compression fittings/ copper tube in general. i went and got an autometer mechanical gages hook up kit. i used my block adapter then found a 1/4 female elbow and screwed it into the block and adapter. then i bent the oil dipstick tube out of the way and connected the flare fitting to the stainless steel hose. then i connected the sender to the other side. first try and no leaks. so if u all want to go the cheap way and do the compression fittings make sure u do it right. i just decided to do it the permanent way. to each his own. if anyone need assistance they can always pm me for anything.
 

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CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION

A number of years ago I did the exact same thing to a Beretta GT. I ran a line , put in a tee and then used both the original and a new electrical sender. All was well for quite a time. Then, late at night I got a call from my son. Seems the car ran low ( well actually out ) of oil. It then over heated and stopped. End of that engine !!!!

The problem was the copper line I had run from the block to the tee. I did not have it tied anywheres to keep it still. Over time, from flexing, it broke, and out went the oil.

Lesson learned, just because you have two gauges, does not mean they will be of use. The driver needs to look at them from time to time.

I hope you have secured that copper line in a number of places. I would suggest a securing point every 10 to 12 inches. A bit of extra time and work NOW just might save you major headaches down the road...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
as stated in my previous post i have ditched the copper line all together becasue of its non-permanentness. i instead use stainless steel hose with flare fittings. eaton flare fittings. there is no leaks now and its almost imposssible to break stainless steel line. it works good now. yeah basically what u sadi the line was turning in the compression fitting and allowing it to leak oil. im sure it would have slipped completely after a while. it jsut all needs to be installed correctly before going and driving the vehicle. lots of secure points and making absolutely postive the line doenst shift at all and the compression fittings will be past the end of the line. also a bit off the block will need to be ground off as to combat the problem of the elbo hitting the block and shearing the threads off it. i will help anyone who decides to go either way, but the female elbo i used is rare and hard to find. thats why i didnt update my how-to. good luck everyone.......
 

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i really need help on this but none of the pics are working. Whats up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
they seem to work for me, if not click on the link in my signature and there all in my gallery
 

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Why dont u just attach it below the throttle body like i did and do away with all of that extra crap? The bung is located by the pcv valve...I'll attach pics tomorrow....I have no extra lines ran and the sending unit is attached directly to the block.It was a tight fit and it took a little bending of the metal pcv pipe....BUT..problem solved...It took me far less time than running all those lines and i got no leaks....Oh and use teflon putty (I'll attach a pic of that too) that is used to seal gaskets...it works far better than tape... Hey rbls4ever where u get those rotors? do they work with standard calipers? Oh and the big question, my car is stored outside for winter so will they rust?
 
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