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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i also posted this in the audio forum but i tihnk it might be better here since i wrote it up as a how-to... i dont check these forums that often so if anyone has any questions u can email me @ [email protected] or go to focaljet.com and chekc the iCE forums--i chekc that all the time

Fiberglassing Tutorial

-chris
 

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1,240 Posts
yeah great how-to...I'll be using it in the near future do help my do my install.
 

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Now everyone is gonna have a custom fiberglass enclosure.. Gah...:rolleyes:



j/k.. :biggrin::cover:
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
very nice....................I'm thinking the spare tire well will work nicely too :) ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thx for the comments--spare tire well is even easier..just glass the well, make a flat mdf peiec to mount the sub and glass the mdf to the existing well (or raise it with 2x4's if you want more airspace and make a false floor)

-chris
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well I wanted it flush with the existing floor and I know the spare tire well is about 6" deep so I'm thinking a smaller sub would do. Thanks again for the how to. Do you mind if I add it to the howto FAQs?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yuo can raise the ENTIRE floor up to get more air space and glass the well.. take cardboard and trace the outline of the trunk, transfer that trace to mdf and cut it--you now have a floor.. raise that floor to desired height for more airspace. glass the well and make the raisers (2x4s) aroudn the well, seal them with glass and you have a flush sub, with the floor--its just abit higher.. yuo can get a 15 in there if you needed with over 2.5.cubes

-chris
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
there's only 1 problem with that with the corners being like they are in the cougar's trunk you can't trace the entire floor onto MDF, i know I tried. the only way I got them to fit was to cut it in half.......which sucked........if you left off the corners off the false floor and then did something there, you'd be set then...........Ok I just gave myself an idea :)
 

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I just did this this weekend. Worked out pretty good. I only have the shell done so far because I'm going to try and do the sub rings like you did. There is a few air bubbles but it is pretty damn thick and its just the back side so nobody will see it. I'll have to be more carefull on the front.

Thanks for the how-to,
Chris
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sounds great, blackcoog---if u have a cam post pictures, im curious to see how everyone elses comes out. i still have exams (god damn school), so i havent had a chance to carpet it yet but i will post it when it is all done..

-chris
 

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That reminds me sorta like those morning kids cartoon shows where the host would draw a picture, going through it step by step making it look sooo simple.. then they would show pictures of other kids who tried to draw the same thing, and it looks nothing like it. I wonder if other people's attempts would look the same.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
if u want to make it nice and smooth, once you are all done glassing go and get some bondo (the body filler stuff), and lay that over the entire enclosure.. sand it smooth( ~80grit). let it dry, fill in cracks with glazing putty--sand again smooth(220). spray on high build primer, sand(220).. paint, sand, clear coat, sand(400).. it takes forever but the results are amazing

-chris
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
if you are using a real big big sub, and alot of power (ie a 1000+ watt amp, and a jlw7 or brahma type sub), use a ****load of glass---go 7-10 layers, and use woven matt instead of chopmatt. woven matt will build up much muhc quicker, and be stronger, it just is harder to work in the corners. The only mdf u really need to use is the rings... some people also like to use rectangular strips of mdf to secure the rings, bc they think it needs the extra strength... not really, ive seen people put their cars on fiberglass boxes and they didnt move--- fiberglass gets really strong very quickly and weights soo much lighter than mdf---

-chris
 
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