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3.0L upper How-To

Parts needed:
· 3.0L upper intake manifold
· 3.0L upper intake manifold bolts
· 3.0L ERG tube
· 2.5L EGR tube
· SVT throttle body
· SVT throttle body bracket
· A couple feet of 3/8'' rubber fuel line or heater hose
· 3.0L throttle body (can be done without but “I” thought it was easier with)
. ATX (Cruise control cable)
. MTX (throttle cable)
. 6inches of 1/2in steel pipe

If not using the 3.0L throttle body:
· Some 1/2" copper piping to reroute the IAC
· Some 1/2" copper caps to block off the IAC on the manifold
· Then talk to PuckPuck

First off if you want to use the 3.0L throttle body and attach the IAC to the top of the manifold like it should be then you will need to sand down the surface on the top of the manifold where it mounts and the surface on the IAC. This should probably be done very carefully because you do want it to seal correctly. A angle grinder with some sanding disc attachments might do a good job if positioned on there correctly. If you don't do this then you cant use the 3.0L throttle body because the IAC will hit the hood, just barely. I have a small push up mark in my hood from when the engine torques back so mine just barely fit and there was more material left that I could have ground off on the UIM. Also if you use the 3.0L throttle body you need to plug one of the vacuum lines that previously came off the intake pipe and went to the throttle hang tube.

Ok remove the intake system and the 2.5L manifold. There are how to’s on this already. Dan G had a good on somewhere.

Ok now looking at the bottom of the 3.0L manifold there are four different connections on the 3.0L manifold. Three will accept that 3/8'' tubing nicely and the fourth is a bit larger.

After the 2.5L manifold is off you will want to either jack up the car or just put your hand through toward the rear manifold and unbolt the EGR. This might be harder on ATX’s since the mount is back there for them. It takes a pretty large wrench, I had a box wrench which I had to open all the way to get it to fit on it. It takes some doing but you can get it from up top with the manifold off.

I just blocked off my EGR at each end so I'm not sure how to go about doing this part. PuckPuck said to cut the 2.5L EGR just above where the two hoses come off near the bend and then cut into the 3.0L EGR (I've never seen the 3.0L one so you'll have to use common sense as to where to cut that one. Chopping up the 3L EGR and the 2.5L EGR should leave you with a few useful pieces. Using some steel piping to fill in the gaps and having it all welded together would be your best bet. Bolt the new custom EGR to the rear exhaust manifold For stock like operation of the I'd suggest using as much of the original EGR piping as possible.

Bolt on the 3.0L manifold.

Cut about 5 inches of 3/8'' tubing for the new PCV tube. Pull the small 2'' long tube that is on the PCV currently and put this longer one on and connect the other end to the only pipe on the 3.0L manifold underneath that has a 90 degree bend that goes toward the throttle body opening. It is pretty long compared to that other two that will take the 3/8” tubing.

Ok now you have two vacuum lines that still need to be connected. One has a bunch of little tubes coming out of it and the other goes to the brake booster. The plastic vacuum line on one with all the little tubes just pulls out. Pull it out of the rubber boot. Connect this to the small 3/8" accepting tube on the back of the manifold. You need to extend the green vacuum line coming off the EGR for it to reach.


Unbolt the black sensor on the back of the 2.5L manifold (only one with two 7mm bolts holding it on)

Hook it back up to the two rubber tubes and the connector it was previously connected to when on the engine. I didn't secure mine I just let it hang in there. You might want to use some twisty ties.

Now for the other vacuum line. I use about a foot of that 3/8'' tubing and just connected this line up to the last 3/8'' accepting tube under the manifold. I let it rest on top of the 3.0L manifold and had the tubing go under it to the pipe. THIS TUBING IS NOT the best for this vacuum line because it doesn't seal perfect if you can find a better fitting tube then use it. I wrapped the vacuum line end with some electrical tape to seal it up better. This has to seal well or you will have no brakes!!!

If you are going to use the 3.0L throttle body. Take all the parts off of it so you just have the casting. Do the same to the SVT one and transfer all the SVT parts to the 3.0L throttle body and assemble it. You now have a 3.0L throttle body with a SVT butterfly valve and the SVT spring setup and also the SVT throttle position sensor. This way you can use the SVT bracket to mount the SVT throttle cable on nicely. (I do not have cruise control on my car any more so I didn't mess with that cable) When installing the TPS sensor on the 3L throttle body be sure to set it correctly, not doing so will cause the IMRC to not open, and make the car run like crap.


You need to unbolt the IAC from the 2.5L manifold (two 10mm bolts and had one connector on it). Since you sanded down the mating surfaces so it won't hit the hood you can just bolt this to the top of the 3.0L manifold. Skip down to the bullet if you did this otherwise read on.

If not using the 3.0 throttle body then you need to run some copper 1/2'' piping into each hole on the one closest to the connector is the IN part and the other is the OUT that will go to the last open pipe on the 3.0L upper. You will run that weird rubber pipe that came off your intake that has the two 90 degree bends in it (the throttle hang tube) to the IN part and then run the OUT part to that last pipe on the back/underside of the 3.0L manifold. This pipe might be too large to work so you may need to substitute some other tubing here.

Plug the two holes on the top of the manifold with two 1/2" copper caps.

·If you ARE using the 3.0L throttle body then block off the larger opening on the back of the manifold with something. Maybe some JB weld or a cap. I used some heavy-duty aluminum tape to test it out.

Bolt the SVT or 3.0 throttle body up.

Rig up the SVT throttle body bracket so it is held on by only one nut (not sure what else to do here to make it more secure but it worked). That nut goes on the upper left bolt on the throttle body (two sided bolt with a 8mm nut that goes on to hold the bracket on). The bracket will only make sense oriented one way so you should be able to figure it out.

Hook up the the throttle cable. (I didn't mess with the cruise control cable because I removed cruise control from my car)

Bolt on the intake and try to get everything to fit as it should. I did relocate my battery and I have the SCA intake so I have no idea how the other intakes will work with the battery there.

You also might need some extra tubing for the valve cover return lines since the intake sits in a different orientation then before. Some more 3/8'' tubing should work for these.

Then the throttle position sensor might have to stretch a bit to work. I would recommend that these wires be lengthened a bit.

Chris

PS. Thanks to Hotcat for sending me updates for parts I didn't add enough info for.
 

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3.0L upper How-To

woohoo

now that we have a how-to .... if you don't already have an SVT UIM... get your 3.0L UIM now. Hell even if you do have an SVT UIM, you can probably sell it to some sucker for $500 :)
 
G

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3.0L upper How-To

thought i would mention the size of spanner needed for the EGR is 1 and 1/16 in, not real important but i figured it could be useful, wierd wrench size =)

(edit) very nice how-to, something i hope to do when my warrenty expires ;)
 

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3.0L upper How-To

Originally posted by: EchoFive
thought i would mention the size of spanner needed for the EGR is 1 and 1/16 in, not real important but i figured it could be useful, wierd wrench size =)

(edit) very nice how-to, something i hope to do when my warrenty expires ;)
uh... you can't invalidate your warranty by swapping an intake manifold....
 
G

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3.0L upper How-To

I donno, i bought my ***** used and have a dealership warrenty, i figure they will try and void mine however they can (i currently need like 1k in tranny work from them lol) If they cant im going to do that UIM swap this summer, can they void it for a LIM and injectors also...

on second thought, if i do all that cant they just say the added horsepower was the cause of my trannys failure? and refuse to work on it? also the reason i cant really take it in for a while is that the dealer is in Dallas, im like 6 hrs away in midland.

eh, thanks for any info.

P.S. Sorry for thread hijacking ;)
 

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3.0L upper How-To

on second thought, if i do all that cant they just say the added horsepower was the cause of my trannys failure? and refuse to work on it? also the reason i cant really take it in for a while is that the dealer is in Dallas, im like 6 hrs away in midland.
:bs:

you have to remember the burden of proof is on the dealer, not you. Now if you slapped a turbo/supercharger on the front, sure, they might have an arguement. otherwise they do not.
 

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3.0L upper How-To

I just purchased the 3L upper and tb today. I couldn't get a hold of the 3L egr tube or the 3L upper bolts. How important are these parts? Can the 2.5L egr tube not be used alone? What is the difference between the two? How much should I expect to pay from the dealership for the 3L egr tube?
What is the difference in the upper bolts? Length?
 

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3.0L upper How-To

if I am not mistaken, the actualy size of the EGR port and bolts from the 2.5L to the 3.0L upper is the same - it's just the rest of the pipe which is differently shaped - can someone verify this?

if that is true, then just cutting your 2.5L egr pipe and using a piece from the top, with a piece from the bottom with flex hose between them to make up the difference you should be ok...

if not, then you'll have to get at least the top of a 3.0l egr pipe OR modify the 2.5L to bolt to the 3.0L OR don't use an EGR at all :)
 

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3.0L upper How-To

Originally posted by: mcon99


if that is true, then just cutting your 2.5L egr pipe and using a piece from the top, with a piece from the bottom with flex hose between them to make up the difference you should be ok...

Thanks for the reply, Mcon. I was looking at the 2.5L egr tubing today. I was thinking since the same EGR solenoid will be used during the swap, that the bolt's threads must be the same. I have never seen a 3L egr tube, but I would imagine the only difference would be the routing of the tube. If that is the case, then you would be correct in saying that the 2.5L would be only one needed.

What would be the effects of running an engine with out an EGR?
 

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3.0L upper How-To

EGR helps the car with two things - emissions and octane. Obviously, recirculating some unburnt hydrocarbons back through the cylinders is going to decrase your emissions, but the effect is minimal, and I highly doubt you'de fail with a blocked off EGR assuming your main cat is working. As for octane, having some exhaust gases flow back into the cylinder actually causes the effect of raising the ignition temperature of the a/f mix, essentially providing a bit of an octane boost.

However, the EGR solenoid is only open at part throttle. At WOT is completely shuts down (for performance reasons). So it's overall usefullness to your engine is not great....

Alot of people have had good results with using a restrictor plate between the upper EGR tube and the UIM. This causes the EGR to still flow but at a reduced rate, which will not cause a CEL. They just used the EGR to UIM gasket as a template with some thin sheet steel.

If do decide to block off the EGR, you're going to have to consider the CEL from EGR insufficient flow. I think puck had the best idea for this - why not route the EGR tube back into the exhaust system itself! That way the PCM still thinks the EGR is flowing past the sensor but in reality it is being dumped right back into the exhaust. As long as you run mid or high octane gas this should not cause problems. It would require a bit of custom welding on the rear manifold but any shop could do it quikcly, assuming the rear manifold was removed from the car. Doing it in place would be possible but slightly more difficult.

If I end up doing this mod with the engine removed, I'll definitly route the EGR flow back into the exhaust and block it at the UIM. Otherwise, I'de just make up a restrictor plate and use flex hose to hook it up.
 

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3.0L upper How-To

Originally posted by: mcon99
so who is actually in the process of putting this together for themselves...?
My uim and tb just came in today. I will be working on it this week. I thought I would post some pics of how the 3L tb is different from the SVT. That is one part I didn't understand till I got the part in hand.
 

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3.0L upper How-To

Originally posted by: mcon99
if I am not mistaken, the actualy size of the EGR port and bolts from the 2.5L to the 3.0L upper is the same - it's just the rest of the pipe which is differently shaped - can someone verify this?
I verified this today. The 2.5L egr can not be used. When it is mounted to the 3L uim, the tube bend goes directly where the tb mounts and can not be rerouted.
A '98 uim does not have the egr tube welded to the egr. It bolts on. I am going to be adding a copper coupling to the 3L egr and then run heater hose to meet the 2.5L egr near the exhaust manifold.
 

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3.0L upper How-To

yeah, i just ordered my uim and tb from some boneyard so i'll get to it the weekend after or so. this should be some fun.
 

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3.0L upper How-To

So does anyone have any installed pics?

So is this How-to saying it is pretty difficult to use the SVT TB with the 3L UIM?

Which is better anyway the 3L TB or the SVT TB?
 

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3.0L upper How-To

Originally posted by: Cyko
So does anyone have any installed pics?

So is this How-to saying it is pretty difficult to use the SVT TB with the 3L UIM?

Which is better anyway the 3L TB or the SVT TB?
I have installed pics. ------The svt tb and the 3L tb are essentially the same. They have the same cast and throttle plate. The difference is the 3L tb has a hole in the top to allow for a tb bypass. I found it easier to use the svt tb. Either way, you have to lengthen the tps wires. Sanding and testing the IAC for hood closure takes time. That is the main reason that I chose to use the svt tb. Btw, the egr tube is a pain in the butt!!
 

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3.0L upper How-To

Can someone post some pics of the 3.0 UIM installed. Do aftermarket intakes still sit in the same place? Does anyone have side by side pics of the 3.0 and svt TB?
 

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3.0L upper How-To

Originally posted by: RodneyBur
Can someone post some pics of the 3.0 UIM installed. Do aftermarket intakes still sit in the same place? Does anyone have side by side pics of the 3.0 and svt TB?
I have a pic of it nearly installed. The intake is not bolted up, because I had to cut an inch off the pipe to make it fit behind the headlamp. The intake in the pic is laying very near where it lays now. I drew a line to show where a standard straight intake would go.

 
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