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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know how to take it off?
Will it leave any holes or is it taped/glued on?
I'm totally clueless on this subject.
 

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To the best of my knowledge it's on there with 2-sided 3m tape. To get it off, you'd probably want to either heat it with a blow dryer and/or spray some WD40 on the area, then take some fishing wire and work it through an end and pull across to break the tape all the way. Then clean up any tape left on using more WD40 and fishing line or PLASTIC razor blades (don't use the metal ones you could damage your paint). When you're done rinse off all the WD40, bathe, and wax your baby. (As the WD40 will take the wax off.)

It shouldn't leave any holes or anything, though depending on how new your car is, the paint of your car may have faded but not the paint behind the molding...
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just be careful doing this, I also used a heat gun and wd40 and when I pulled the molding off, it brought the clear coat with it. Now I have a dull line down the side of my door, untill I get my car painted.
 

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w00t!
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The moulding on the side of the car?....that looooong strip that goes from the drivers door back to just infront of the back wheel?

Yeah, i know exactly what your talking about and ive removed it myself about a month ago..... all you do is just 'peel' it off (peeling it off didn't damage my paint whatso ever)... its just stuck on with a double-sided adhesive. after you peel it off, you will probably get some of that sticky stuff remaining on the car... i used a 'bug & tar' remover and just sprayed it on, and used a shop rag to rub it off. its simple, but it took about an hour and a bit from start to finish...95% of that time was spent rubbing the adhesive off.

i highly recommend it... it makes the cougars' body look a whole lot "smoother" :)
 

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I just used good old armstong power and pulled it of with my fingers. But if you do it that way you wont be able to reattach it later. I pretty much destroyed it and mineral spirits will work better than wd 40 to get off the residue however wd 40 is cheaper.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah, i agree with the chauffer...just used my fingernails on the pointed end of the molding then peeled slowly.. then just used a soft rag with my fingernail behind it (carefully) to take glue out. i waitied till night when it was about 60 degrees. then waxed the car. it worked for me
 

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It probly didnt take off your clear coat. Its just faded ill bet. Thats why mine will never come off till i paint the car.. paint fades... some colors more then others. Depending on where you live and how long that thing has been on there you will DEFINALY be able to see where it used to be... i would NOT recomend it.


Just pull it off.. and get some 3m adheasive remover. Try the painters supply house for that stuff, its not a hardware store item.
 

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Why some have it and some don't?

Don't know.

Do know it's not part of an equipment package (at least not in 99 or 01 as far as I can tell). It's a $50 list price option.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:cool: Thanks for all the help guys.

I've decided to wait till after the winter or until I have enough dough to start on cosmetic stuff before I peel it off. Got a lot of ideas for looks, but nothing serious. Right now, I'm doin go, then show.
 

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El Mucho Post Whoro
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I'm keeping my bodyside molding on for one reason:

When someone opens their door and bangs into my car, after a few bangs, it's alot cheaper to spend 50 bucks to replace the bodyside molding (+ labor), then it is to repaint or touch-up dings in the door. ;) But that's just me, and I worry about stupid things like that...
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hmm my molding is too low to prevent damage from doors. Somone opened a door into my cougar about 2 weeks after i got it, nice little dent right in my door about 2 inches above the molding.
 
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