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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have used the Search button for this topic so please don't flame me. My car just recently started doing this. I start the car and then turn the a/c on, the pump kicks on then kicks back off 5 seconds later and then comes back on. It goes on and off at 5 second intervals. The vents blow scorching hot. I checked the pressure of the system it goes from green to blue. Green meaning refill, blue meaning charged. It green when the pump is off and blue when the pump is on. This thing drags horribly on my engine too. makes the car sound like its cammed out crazy like a drag car. Could the problem possibly be the a/c compressor clutch circuit. It does this when I try to run defrost also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The little fitting on the low pressure line where you place the gauge is bubbling neon green liquid. that is the only leak I have detected on the whole system. But when I place the gauge on the fitting it reads the system has adequate levels then goes to low. It bounces with compressor. When the compressor is on the thing reads good when it kicks off it reads low.
 

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I'm having a similiar problem with my a/c right now. weird. it just stopped working on a road trip from san antonio to wichita falls (six hours up and six back w/no a/c sucked). My belt is not loose either, and the compressor will only catch when I rev and then drive at low speeds. (rev over 4k rpm and then drive below 15mph).

I just hit the 80k mile mark and was thinking its the compressor but wanted to make sure, in case it was something simple. Any suggestions?
 

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Originally posted by: slimetimecougar
The little fitting on the low pressure line where you place the gauge is bubbling neon green liquid. that is the only leak I have detected on the whole system. But when I place the gauge on the fitting it reads the system has adequate levels then goes to low. It bounces with compressor. When the compressor is on the thing reads good when it kicks off it reads low.
well if youre leaking refregerant and the tracer through the shrader valve on the low side port, you obviously need to have it replaced... the part itself is under $2, but you will need to evacuate the refergerant, vaccum the system, and recharge it in order for it to work again. you need a shop to do this... no shortcuts here...

thats why youre getting the compressor clutch cycling like that, when the compressor kicks on, the low side dips below 20 psi and the switch kick it off, once the high side and low side pressures start to equalize and the pressure goes back up over 20psi, the clutch will kick back on and drop the pressure again. that is caused by low refegerant, leaking from the valve



sorry to dissapoint you guys, i just took a fastcougar break ;)
 
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