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Alright so my birthday is coming up, and i decided to treat myself to some nice msds headers/y-pipe. I've read that these are a PITA to install but i have a decent amount of experience under the hood of cars. I have yet to really mod my cougar (just a SRI) but i have access to a lift and a ridiculous amount of tools. So i think that with enough time and some beers i should be able to handle this job pretty well haha. Are there any tips I should use to make this job a tad easier?
 

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remove the front and rear roll resistors (motor mounts), leaving motor mounts on the sides alone. this will allow you to twist the engine and trany in the car. this helps alot on the rear manifold.
 

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I actually have the same kind of question, The shorty msds headers from nautilusperformance.com will fit the 2.5 without the turbo right, because I no they are all about their turbo on their website thats why I ask.

And yea anyone else have any other suggestions about the install of the headers and y-pipe?

thanks
 

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alternator will have to come off, a whole bunch of wrench attachements (pivots, extentions etc...), Nut-off which is a must and either use the stock gaskets or buy some new ones but dont use the ones that come in the box.
 

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I actually have the same kind of question, The shorty msds headers from nautilusperformance.com will fit the 2.5 without the turbo right, because I no they are all about their turbo on their website thats why I ask.

And yea anyone else have any other suggestions about the install of the headers and y-pipe?

thanks
their turbo kits fit on stock exhaust manifolds and the msds headers.

note that i did NOT need to remove the alternator to install my headers.
 

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Don't use any sort of lubricant....you WANT the stud to come right out of the block, especially on the back side. It will give you more room to get the manifold off.

Also, I used a 1/4" ratchet with a 5mm socket on it on the end of the stud itself on some of them. It was easier than fitting the 13mm in there.
 

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Yeah What Wade said....Lots of extensions over the subframe. Oh and Say goodbye to the skin on your knuckles. Mechanics gloves don't work either because you have to be able to feel up in there..(I was gonna say feel the nuts but it just sounded gay)
 

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I didnt have to take anything out to install my headers.... Probably woulda helped though.

I really shoulda taken out the roll resisters, but I didnt think about it at the time. Expect a good 4-6 hours to do it and some skinned knuckles. I recommend one at 18 inches, one 6 inch and a couple 3 inch extensions. Most of the nuts will come off with a combination of these extensions. Also you should have 2 u-joints. Most of the time you will only use the one. For the install you are gonna need to get one of the nuts on the rear header with a wrench, because it is pretty well impossible to get a socket on it due to the shape of the headers. Dont wear sleeves, grease your arm halfway past your elbow, and you should be able to reach it.... Starting the bolt might make you twist your hand in a way that hurts, but thats good for you... It grows hair on your chest. Taking the fans out would definately make the front easier btw. Make sure you lube everything really well or you are gonna break those studs. If the stud doesnt come out with the nut when you are taking off your stock manifolds, then make sure you take the stud out after you get your stock manifolds out, cause your headers will be a PITA to fit if there are any studs left in there.... although it is doable.
 

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You definitely don't need to pull the alternator but I could see how it would be easier with it out. A lot of extensions are needed (2 or 3 - 6" 3/8 extensions, 1 or 2 - 3/8 nuckles, 13mm 3/8 deep socket, and a 3/8 rachet). Smaller extensions are also useful.
 

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I see Nautilus is selling the headers for $250 uncoated or $300 coated, where can you buy the Headers and Y-Pipe combo from MSDS? And how much is that?
 

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Alright, see here's my thought...why are the headers/y-pipe from MSDS $725 if you can get the same headers for $300 from Nautilus and a Y-Pipe with both a High-Flow cat and a Test Pipe for $350 from Trubendz? You can SAVE money by getting more...

You're basically paying $425 for the y-pipe alone
 

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I ordered my Trubendz "Full Exhaust" today which includes the y-pipe, high-flow cat, and test pipe. I intend to buy the MSDS headers next month. I've had the MSDS headers/y-pipe before, so I'll compare fitment and quality between the 2 options if anyone is curious.
 
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