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The heavy box in the front pushes magic smoke through all the little tubes with impossible to manipulate connectors.
If you let the magic smoke out, bad things happen.
If you touch the magic smoke, painful things happen.
If you run out of magic smoke, nothing happens.
 
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What's the check/change interval on the magic smoke? Will any brand do or do I need the Motorcraft stuff?

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
I think its one of those deals where the same chinese company makes all of it, then different brands just slap their own label on so it doesnt really matter

/ End thread hijack /
 

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Dupont owned the patent on R134A, it was rather convenient that just as the patent was set to expire the EPA decided to force Automakers to change yet again, with the recommended refrigerant being R1234yf, which is also owned by Dupont. Now, I know this might seem a little fishy, but Dupont and the EPA assure us that there's no funny business going on, they just want to protect the environment.

Note, R154a (aka keyboard cleaner), is almost at the required GWP number for the 2020 regulation. R134a is around 3k, the regulation is 100, and R154a is around 125, with R1234yf being in the 80's iirc, and R744 is at 1. R744 being super critical CO2, so it's release into the atmosphere is about as damaging as driving up to the store for groceries.
 

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cool. thanks stu.

i should really know more about the electrics of these cars.
going off memory, when I was driving the car (-2011), the AC would intermittently cut out following driving with the AC, parking and coming back and starting the car while still hot. It did this off and on but overall the AC would blow 100% cold or nothing. So at that time, did not seem to be a refrigerant issue. I tried changing the (thing I am going to call a magnetic sensor because I don't know what it is - and looks about the same as the camshaft sensor) and it didn't make a difference. Generally it is not hot or humid enough here that having fully functioning AC, so didn't bother looking any further into it.
not to say it hasn't since leaked any remaining refrigerant out, but figured I'd pass along what I know ;)
 

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going off memory, when I was driving the car (-2011), the AC would intermittently cut out following driving with the AC, parking and coming back and starting the car while still hot. It did this off and on but overall the AC would blow 100% cold or nothing. So at that time, did not seem to be a refrigerant issue. I tried changing the (thing I am going to call a magnetic sensor because I don't know what it is - and looks about the same as the camshaft sensor) and it didn't make a difference. Generally it is not hot or humid enough here that having fully functioning AC, so didn't bother looking any further into it.
not to say it hasn't since leaked any remaining refrigerant out, but figured I'd pass along what I know ;)
Mine has, very rarely, cut off during strong acceleration (normal), but then not kicked back on when I let off the gas (not normal). I don’t know what controls that function, but if it’s a relay that’s flaking, maybe that’s what’s wrong here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Had Gildie out to go to the dr today. The radio started to sound really bad, and then it quit, ok it's an old unit maybe it died finally, then I looked at the gauges and they weren't working, crap, got it into a parking lot and it died just before I got it backed into a parking spot, great. Going back later with a fresh battery to get it home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
got the alternator replaced over the weekend. I hate that top bolt by myself, even with the right tools.

went to put the roush rear bar on today and realized the bushings i have arent the right style for the stock brackets. I swear I have the right ones somewhere. Id rather have the larger ones, but I need a welder for that cause the 110v welder I have suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucks
 

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found the proper bushings in the tool box today, so I can get on that now. next up is getting the AC to work, and figuring out why the horn doesnt work. the fuse in the breaker is good.
Clockspring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
Bit of an update, lots has happened lately. Ive decided to do this as a "rare parts build" I picked up bensenvilles car and parts hoard. Goldie has gotten some of his parts installed
-Cougar S CF hood
-Redline tuning hood struts
-PRT rear toe arms
-updated rear subframe
-Euro tails

Parts that I had on hand that got installed
-Roush rear sway bar

Purchased that are waiting to get installed
-subframe connectors
-Cougar S upper and lower spoilers
-Visteon splitter
-Visteon sides

made some plans for some other parts to get installed, but thats down the road a bit so we will leave those alone for now.

Goldie made an appearance at the Hoosier Challenge (Indiana region challenge) a couple weeks ago and I was able to beat a Focus ST by 1.5 seconds. I still get jazzed when i get to drive this care over my fusion and the F150. Just need some time to give it some loving.
 

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BTW, I've had issues with the cougar burning through horns, the factory location has them pretty exposed to the elements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
So after the alternator went out ti reset everything, including the p1000 code so i couldnt get through emissions due to the lower 02 sensors. I guess my MILs died. Oh, plates were due in May, June due to COVID. Been using the plates from our sold Escape, oops. Got some spark plug anti foulers installed and that did the trick. much better way of doing it, and a lot more permanent.

Did have a bit of an issue over the weekend though. The car died on me several times when idling down at a stop sign or stop light. Its got an SVT clutch and flywheel
 

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Not sure about Indiana, but in Michigan it's a misdemeanor to use plates from one car on another without transferring that plate over. You're better off running no plates, since that's just a civil infraction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
im not sure either, i always had the emissions stuff in the car with me. never drove it very far, which is why it took so long to get everything to clear. and the stickers have the plate number on them so i couldnt even just transfer that over to the other plate
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
bit of an update. Finally got the TZT endlinks installed. My coolant light has been on since I got the car. Mom had to borrow the car since she was getting some body work done to her car so I "fixed" the light with a spade connector just so she wouldnt worry about it like last time.

Havent driven the car a ton this summer since ive been watching kids all summer, cant wait till they are out of car seats. But I drive it when ever i can to run to the store and what not. It developed a rattle in the back. pulled off a loose heat shield but that wasnt all of it. Im pretty sure its the exhaust rattling against something.

Hoping to get some stuff painted once my dad gets the garage at his new place set up for painting.
 

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Don't forget to check the spare tire well for rear end rattles.
 
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