finally got a chance to take it out this weekend. Having working struts is AMAZING! when i took the old ones off they literally collapsed like there was nothing there. Its got a bit of a pull to the right, but its not bad for having the entire drivetrain off. rear sway bar is all thats left
The brake pedal was a bit soft, i think i have too much fluid in the tank (its touching the cap) need to take a bit out.
had a bit of a problem last night. car kept dying on me, had to keep the rpm above 2k and smelled like fuel. got home and pulled the vacuum lines off the back side on the black thing and fuel poured out. blew it out and pulled the red line off the fuel regulator and started it. Fuel was POURING out of the regulator. Found one off an old fuel rail i had sitting in a bucket and all is well again.
Its starting to get warm, really need to get the AC fixed. the compressor isnt kicking in. I need to jump the system to see if i can get it work that way. Anyone done this before?
For the relay swap around one of the other relays, I think the horn relay is the same type, but it's been a while.
For the coil, jump the relay and check for 12v at the connector. If you've got it there's something wrong with the coil, or there's high resistance somewhere which is limiting the current to the coil.
For the switch, if the pressure is above 40 PSI, check for continuity on the switch, then unscrew it and see if it's changed (I can't remember if the switch is normally open or closed.) If it changes state the switch should be good. Problem with the switch is that it's a pain in the ass to get to, especially with my giant ass hands.
So I swapped relay around and that didn’t change anything. Check voltage at the relay and it’s good.
Didn’t have a chance to stop at my dads to use the proper ac gauges, so I put the gauge on that is attached to the filler can. It was, a bit, high. Got it down to 40 psi on that gauge and that didn’t change anything
With the engine off, if you jump the relay you should see and hear the AC clutch engage as the coil energizes. If you don't see and hear it, stick the positive probe of your multi meter or test light into the back of the connector and the other to ground, or you could pull the connector off of the compressor and go in through the front, I forget which is positive though so you'll have to check both. If you get 12V on one side of the coil, but it's not moving, you likely have a bad coil, double check by checking continuity across the coil with the connector unplugged. If you get 12v on both sides of the coil your clutch is likely frozen up somehow. If you're not getting 12v anywhere you have a wiring issue.
Clutches are a bit of a pain in the ass to replace, but it can be done on the car without draining the AC system. There's some good general knowledge videos on youtube on how to do it, but basically un-bolt it from the block, get it pointing down as best you can, unbolt the clutch, then it's just a matter of using a steering wheel puller to remove the pulley, and two pry bars to remove the coil. R&R as a unit, don't bother with replacing them part by part at this age. Also, there's a spacer washer that's rather critical, I forget how to measure that stuff though, look up some good videos on any Ford with an FS10 or FS15 compressor (Most fords from 1985 till 2010ish)
Inspired by B3nn3tts post, and also a thread I saw on another forum, Here's a thread for whatever random hunk of metal is turning your head on any given day
Here's mine this week...A kit:
I wouldn't put all the racing stickers on it, I would stick with...
Hey all. It's a been awhile. As a lot of others have done, I have moved to a new platform. I miss my cougar dearly. The Offspring misses it even more. But this is what we've been up to since then..
As in true Cavaness fashion, the offspring is on his 3rd 240. Not by choice kinda...
5 years with little to no modifications - it's time.
63,000 miles now, and one of the rear shocks is completely toast. It knocks around back there something awful, so I decided to just do it all.
Today I ordered a Ford Racing package with Performance Pack shocks and struts, and Ford Racing K...
So im pretty sure I have never really posted pics of the VR4 on here so since I just got it back on the road i figured I might as well.
'93 3000GT VR4 with ~229K original miles.
mod list is short but includes:
11G turbos (from the stock 9Bs)
DN Performance pre-turbo pipes
K&N open element...
I'm going to need a new winter beater sometime this year, and have begun the process of trying to think about what to get.
This group is my favorite outlet for automotive discussions so even though its early, I thought I would start a thread about this process.
My general guidelines are:
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