New Cougar Forum banner

141 - 160 of 172 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
24,234 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,050 Posts
Discussion Starter #146
finally got a chance to take it out this weekend. Having working struts is AMAZING! when i took the old ones off they literally collapsed like there was nothing there. Its got a bit of a pull to the right, but its not bad for having the entire drivetrain off. rear sway bar is all thats left

The brake pedal was a bit soft, i think i have too much fluid in the tank (its touching the cap) need to take a bit out.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,050 Posts
Discussion Starter #148
It was an interesting drive home today. Car wouldn’t idle. Had to stay in the gas to keep it running. Light came on. Pulled the codes

P1519 imrc stuck closed
P0133 bank 1 signal 1
P1132 switches sensor indicates rich

I hope these are all imrc related. Letting the car cool off before I look at things
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,050 Posts
Discussion Starter #149
Imrc rod fell off. Put some clips in from another lim, but some of the tabs are broke as well. Where can we get new ones? I thought we could get them from a non ford source.

Uim is off, might as well put the extrude hone uim on lol
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,050 Posts
Discussion Starter #153
had a bit of a problem last night. car kept dying on me, had to keep the rpm above 2k and smelled like fuel. got home and pulled the vacuum lines off the back side on the black thing and fuel poured out. blew it out and pulled the red line off the fuel regulator and started it. Fuel was POURING out of the regulator. Found one off an old fuel rail i had sitting in a bucket and all is well again.

Its starting to get warm, really need to get the AC fixed. the compressor isnt kicking in. I need to jump the system to see if i can get it work that way. Anyone done this before?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,105 Posts
AC not kicking in could be a few things. Pressure switch will stop the compressor from kicking in if it's below like 40 PSI or above 80 iirc.

Could also be a bad coil on the clutch, or a bad relay. On our cars that's about it other than wiring harness issues. These cars are truly from a simpler time.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,050 Posts
Discussion Starter #156
AC lS FOR THE WEAK.
for a racecar sure, but for the summer daily driver kid hauler, ac is needed


stuart, thats why im driving it, much easier to work on. That said, im electrical stupid. ive got an AC gauge so i can check the pressures, not sure hot to go about checking the other things
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,105 Posts
For the relay swap around one of the other relays, I think the horn relay is the same type, but it's been a while.

For the coil, jump the relay and check for 12v at the connector. If you've got it there's something wrong with the coil, or there's high resistance somewhere which is limiting the current to the coil.

For the switch, if the pressure is above 40 PSI, check for continuity on the switch, then unscrew it and see if it's changed (I can't remember if the switch is normally open or closed.) If it changes state the switch should be good. Problem with the switch is that it's a pain in the ass to get to, especially with my giant ass hands.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,050 Posts
Discussion Starter #158
So I swapped relay around and that didn’t change anything. Check voltage at the relay and it’s good.

Didn’t have a chance to stop at my dads to use the proper ac gauges, so I put the gauge on that is attached to the filler can. It was, a bit, high. Got it down to 40 psi on that gauge and that didn’t change anything

Not sure how to check the coil like Stu said
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,105 Posts
With the engine off, if you jump the relay you should see and hear the AC clutch engage as the coil energizes. If you don't see and hear it, stick the positive probe of your multi meter or test light into the back of the connector and the other to ground, or you could pull the connector off of the compressor and go in through the front, I forget which is positive though so you'll have to check both. If you get 12V on one side of the coil, but it's not moving, you likely have a bad coil, double check by checking continuity across the coil with the connector unplugged. If you get 12v on both sides of the coil your clutch is likely frozen up somehow. If you're not getting 12v anywhere you have a wiring issue.

Clutches are a bit of a pain in the ass to replace, but it can be done on the car without draining the AC system. There's some good general knowledge videos on youtube on how to do it, but basically un-bolt it from the block, get it pointing down as best you can, unbolt the clutch, then it's just a matter of using a steering wheel puller to remove the pulley, and two pry bars to remove the coil. R&R as a unit, don't bother with replacing them part by part at this age. Also, there's a spacer washer that's rather critical, I forget how to measure that stuff though, look up some good videos on any Ford with an FS10 or FS15 compressor (Most fords from 1985 till 2010ish)
 
141 - 160 of 172 Posts
Top