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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thats right. I have confirmed that the GMK CAI can be installed on both the MTX and the ATX without relocated the battery.



LINK to additional Pictures


I did not change my design in order to accomplish this. If you have a GMK CAI please PM me with an Image so I may confirm if your custom GMK pipe will allow this as well.

I have put alot of work into the GMK CAI over the past year and a half, to ensure that it is the most flexible CAI on for the cougar/contour. I can assure you this is not just randomly assembled piping bends. I have gone through 5 GMK intake revisions since my first install back in 2002. I have rigorously tested my intake in many climates, weather conditions and under heavy and light acceleration. Traffic you name it. Even in the snow and ICE. I have recorded real time IAT tempatures during many of these tests. And each time the GMK CAI shows IAT temps within +/-2 degrees of outside air.

If anyone remembers Cougar Bash's HUGE down pours of rain. I ran my car with no fender liner and no water shield, just to see how much abuse the filter can take from mud and water. I have not reinstalled my fender liner since. Obviously I didn't suffer hydrolock during any of those terrible downpours. I have recently installed a Plastic shield; which has proven 100% effective at keeping water off the filter while driving in the rain without a fender liner (as i know many people with fiberglass bumpers have their fender liners removed).

My car has been dyno'd with the GMK CAI. However due to an o2 sensor failure I can not use that dyno for a comparison. It also doesn't help there isn't a dyno in less than 3 hour drive from me. But I do plan on releasing a new dyno soon.


Each aftermarket shortram is different and the GMK CAI has been designed to work with them all with little or no modification needed by the purchaser, as I custom fabricate each GMK CAI to each persons specific shortram.

I also will custom fabricate a CAI for any car or truck! PM me if you are interested. My current projects include a 300zx and Skunk2 GSR manifold.





This thread is aimed at answering any Questions about the GMK CAI.

The GMK CAI is designed for maximum HP and Looks. Shorter piping, Less bends, and smoother angles all contribute to proper airflow.

The GMK CAI is available in lightweight High Polished Aluminum and Carbon Fiber (special order only)


I currently offer a the GMK CAI as a Cold AIR Extension only. (designed to mate with any current shortram) CustomCougars.com can offer a high quality full GMK CAI system.


$110 shipped will include: GMK CAI extension

- 2 mandrel bent Polished Aluminum GMK pipes
- 2 Black Couplers
- 5 clamps
- Choice of vacuume cap or blue silicone hose section for IAT sensor (if needed)
- Free airfilter if needed


Also, If you buy a Polished GMK CAI now...I can upgrade your piping to Carbon Fiber later when this service is available.


My intake has been installed and proven on the following applications:

Modded I4 Cougar
Stock 2.5 V6 Cougar
Modded 2.5 V6 Cougar MTX
Modded 2.5 V6 Cougar ATX
Many SVT/3.0 Hybrid Cougars and Contours



previously I have said that ATX requires Battery relocation, and MTX required fuse box relocation. This will no longer be true as you can see I have attached pictures of my GMK CAI installed w/o battery or fuse box relocation. I will be created a full online pictorial soon with a step by step how to for the GMK CAI install.

I would still HIGHLY recommend Battery relocation. Not because you have to do it, but because you Should do it! The Cougar is already nearly 300lbs nose heavy, any weight which can be moved to the rear of the car will greatly improve and balance the Cougar's handling. It was the best $40 bucks I've spent, and it was no harder than installing a car audio AMP.

But if Battery relocation isnt the thing for you. I Can offer lightweight 11lb High performance batteries which are 1/3 the size of the OEM battery. PM me for details.
 

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This mod made AMAZING results on my 3.0L Hybrid.

The car absolutely hauls now!!!!!

Props to my man Kenny on this intake!

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:
 

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Originally posted by: 99SilverCougarV6
hmmmm Titan or GMK, i have become more indecisive.
Just let them duke it out for another week or so and the intakes will be down to $24.99!!! It makes me sad that I paid full price for mine.
 

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ooooh that c/f is pretty. is there any plus's by going the c/f route on an intake besides looks??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, the carbon fiber acts as a heat sheild.

The carbon fiber piping is Noticably cooler to the touch as compared to the AEM Zinc coated MAF adaptor.
 

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and just in time for Christmas! I can't wait to see where this goes.

Question: I'm looking at your engine bay, and then I look at mine, and where your carbon fiber pipe is there by the fender, I have this huge bundle of wires wrapped in electrical tape that is impossible to move or slide anything in between it and the fuse box..??

Mike
 

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this is still absolutely stupid

remember people, relocating your battery is the RIGHT THING TO DO REGARDLESS.

Now go do it even if you don't have or every plan on buying this intake....
 

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nothing like a little compatition to keep pricing in check.:thumbsup:

I just love how both of you sound like those late night infomercials. :rolleyes:

Hopefully my gf is paying attention cause this is the intake I want. (cough, x-mas present, cough)

And Mcon, your yelling at everyone to do what YOU think is right is really old. To move my battery to the trunk I would have to pay upwards of $150 for a sealed battery. That's money I don't have. Besides my car is a daily driver. where I place 30lbs really isn't going to affect me, I need the trunk space and I can already out drive most ricers anyways. ;)
 

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Originally posted by: mcon99
this is still absolutely stupid

remember people, relocating your battery is the RIGHT THING TO DO REGARDLESS.

Now go do it even if you don't have or every plan on buying this intake....
I have to agree 100%. The average car battery probably weights about 30-50+ lbs. Moving it to the rear of the car helped noticably with nose dive when I relocated mine in the Cougar.
 

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i want one:cry: but i just ordered demon eyes so its gonna be awhile i guess....maybe christmas:banana: Anyway, what is the benefit of moving the battery to the trunk?? Does a lot of work go into it?? I dont really understand I guess what the big deal is??
 

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Weight distribution is key...

Moving the batter to the rear pulls weight from the front of the car and places it in the rear. This will help offset som of the weight in the front, but will alos make some more room in that engine bay to let it breathe better, and look prettier.

If you are into any for of handling upgrades, then moving the mattery to the rear is one of the first you should do.

You can get a nice relocation kit with 0-2gauge wire, and a sealed plastic box for the $40-$60 range, and metal boxes typically more pricey but not needed.
 

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Anyway, what is the benefit of moving the battery to the trunk?? Does a lot of work go into it??

:banghead:

for the last time...

the ideal weight distribution for any road vechicle is 50:50 front to rear. Obviously every front wheel drive car on the road has too much weight on the front due to the engine/transmission/driveshafts all being there. Cougars are more like a 60:40 front to rear split. Which according to my calculations you need to move at least 200 to 300 pounds to the trunk to start to even out the ratio (or lighten up the front by the same amount).

Now, a 40-60 pounds battery coming out of the front and moving to the trunk causes you to actually move 80 - 120 pounds of weight into the rear when you take into account that you've removed weight from one location and relocated it (as compared to just adding or removing weight).

You don't need a sealed battery to do this mod, as long as you've got a sealed box. Factory battery or equivilant will work fine, although I recommened buying an Optima yellow top anyways. A much sturdier energy source.

Nevermind having SO much easier access to the engine and tramission once the battery is gone, especially when having to change the thermostat, water pump, front engine mount, or shifter tower/cables.

it's pretty simple - if don't relocate your battery, your not serious about performance. Although it is not a mod you can 'measure' on something like a dyno, given the cheap cost and little install time required, there isn't much of an excuse anyone is going to be able to drum up against it.
 

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I told kenny awhile back that I was planning on buying the GMK CAE. Glad I can get it a little cheaper now! :) I plan on relocting the battery regardless if it is necessary or not. I already have 1/0 gauge wire ran for my amp, I am thinking about selling the subs and amp. This way I will have the wire already run for the battery. Where could I get a plastic box for the battery assuming I still use the stock battery? Anything else I need? I have a 150 amp fuse in the engine bay now for the amp, should I just get another for the trunk too?

Thanks
 

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if don't relocate your battery, your not serious about performance
Good GOD that has to be the worst generalization EVAR!!!!
I don't have my battery relocated I must not be serious about performance huh?

Weight off the front end = increased wheel hop off the line.
Atleast in my case it did.
And that equaled slower E.T.'s

just my experience
 

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Originally posted by: gyger
if don't relocate your battery, your not serious about performance
Good GOD that has to be the worst generalization EVAR!!!!
I don't have my battery relocated I must not be serious about performance huh?

Weight off the front end = increased wheel hop off the line.
Atleast in my case it did.
And that equaled slower E.T.'s

just my experience
If you are having horrible wheel hop, you should get some better motor mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Battery relocation is not required for the GMK CAI.

But you ask me you Should JUST DO IT. Its easy to do, makes the GMK CAI install quicker, and allows many many performance benefits.

Wheel hop is caused by soft motor mounts, and a whole general insufficent suspension stiffness. Weight over the front wheels has nothing to do with it. If that where true Honda's and the 4cyl cougars would suffer x3 times as much wheel hop. The 4cyl cougar is what 120+ Lbs lighter than the v6 because of the engine?



I am planning on offering a GMK Solid Lightweight Motor mount soon. Which will nearly Eliminate Wheel Hop and improve overall responsiveness.
 
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