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FSVT Brake Upgrade...lil help

5K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  sonza68 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, I'm kind of embarassed to be asking for help since I've been reading on this for a while. I got the kit, pads, rotors and went to do the driver's side this evening and just have a question..

It says to drill a 1/2 passage through EACH holes on the stock spindle. The spindle holes that use to support the caliper bracket in OEM form. Well, the bolts that go through the adapter plate and mounts in the OEM stock spindle holes fit perfectly, why cut them? I'm probably doing something wrong and need corrected but all directions I've seen are a lil shoddy.
This is what I'm looking at. I grinded the ear like it says and the spacer fits and lines up perfectly.



 
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#2 ·
I haven't installed this kit, but I think you may have reversed the bolts and the studs. To me, it looks like the studs are supposed to be used to hold the new bracket to the spindle. If so, the drilling could be to remove the threads and allow the studs to seat properly.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thing is, there isn't threads in those holes. It's smooth, lol. Your right about the wheel studs though - they do hold the bracket to the spindle.

Just the drilling part - I don't understand.
Oh, and in the picture of the adapter plate on my car, I just had the bolts backwards. The studs go through the spindle and through the adapter plate with a nut on the back of them to pull the stud into the spindle. If I drill it any bigger than it already is - it's going to be loosey goosey.

Maybe I got a revised or a newer kit? I dunno..:confused:
 
#4 ·
You may wanna check those pads. if you are using cougar calipers i dont think they will fit. i just did the Sport brake upgrade and they sent me pads that looked like those and i couldnt get them to fit. The ears on the outsides are shorter i believe. I may be wrong though.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Sonza is right, you got the bolts mixed up. You drill out the holes so you can fit the wheel studs in. The wheel studs go through the hub pointing towards the engine. Then the bracket bolts up to it using the nuts. Then the bolts go through the other holes and thread into the caliper. At least this is how I remember doing it.

Notice the nuts on the back of the wheel studs on the the spindle.



 
#8 ·
Okay, thank you for you guys trying to help me.

I went out to my car and took one of the studs (that holds the brackets to the spindle) and it fits all the way to the shouldered area, just like it would after you would drill it (by it I mean spindle). So, I don't think I have to drill anything. When you put the nut on the back of the spindle onto the stud and begin tightening the shoulderd area will dig into the spindle as it suppose to.

So, I won't be drilling out the stock holes tommorow. If I would, I would ruin it.
 
#9 ·
Got the adpater plates on today...without drilling anything thank you very much. Nearly tore my hand off but I'm okay, lol. Ran into a MAJOR problem though...MY BRAKE PADS WOULD NOT FIT...someone posted about this and I didn't really pay any attention to it. I trimmed the ears on them but they were to freakin' thick. Even after opening the caliper up all the way. Jesus what is wrong with these people? I spent 3-4 hours trimming the brake pads only to have them not fit in the end...I'm pissed.

To top it off I ended up putting my old pads back on and it was getting dark and I think I may or may not have stripped the threads in the anchor plate, I just couldn't get the pin to go in and I think it started going in sideways at the end...I couldn't see that well. I could probably trade my UIM for a SET of front caliper brackets and pins if someone would want to do that. I'll know for sure tommorow if any damage was done.


This was taken RIGHT before I figured out they weren't going to fit. Too thick.

 
#10 ·
You should of gotten the right pads instead of trying to make those fit. But it looks like you got it back together. If you need a new Caliper bracket try a scrap yard. Just remember there are two different sizes. I had to get one for my contour.
 
#12 ·
the DP3956c is for the E0 SVT Contour. you need a DP3955c for the regular Contour/Cougar and later SVT Contour.

what part number did you order? or was it just listed as being for a 99 Cougar? If it was just listed for the Cougar with no part number, or you ordered the 3955 pad then they ****ed up and sent you the wrong parts. of course, since you tried to modify them to fit, they probably wont take them back now anyways, even if you ***** them out about it.
 
#13 ·
Yeah, and even when I got them to fit...they were too thick. :)

:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:


So, I need a caliper bracket. If anyone has a driver side caliper bracket PM me. The pads were too thick and caused the caliper to be kind of sideways and when I started tightening it the pin cross threaded the caliper bracket holes. I could send payment today. I need one ASAP.
 
#14 ·
Got the passenger side completely finished and put toegether. Took me about an hour and a half. Getting that stud in the spindle for me is the most time consuming part because it requires LOTS of strength. Anyhow, it's finished. Just waiting on the extra caliper bracket from Wade and then she'll be good to go.

- The difference between 278mm rotors and 300mm rotors.

- Adapter bracket on.

- Back toegether.

Sorry bout' the fence. :( They look amazing.
 
#15 ·
Finished. You can really feel the solidity when braking after the upgrade, it's nice.

I'll be getting SS brake lines very soon. That's the next thing I plan on getting. The upgrade broke me. :(



 
#16 ·
Jealous!

I'm gonna have to go tear around the neighborhood in my SVT Focus to gratify myself :rofl:

I wonder if I could swap in the entire knuckle, spindle, caliper, and rotor from my busted SVT onto my Cougar... I might try that if nationwide would SHAKE A LEG!!!
 
#20 ·
Glad to hear you got it all back together. Those rotors fill out the stock rims really nicely. I noticed an improvement in my braking as well when I installed mine. Now I just have to do the rears.
 
#21 ·
Thanks Daniel, for the heads up. I'm definitely doing this as soon as Nationwide figures out what they're doing with my old SVT.
 
#24 ·
Yeah, NPG sells a set of brackets for that.

Kris, yeah you can probably use that disk. The bolt pattern, diameter and thickness would all be the same.

As to whether it would work better is debatable. It's typically assumed that drilled and slotted disks are upgrades over stock disks, though there's a bit of debate on whether it's actually a performance upgrade or just cosmetic. The usual claim is that the slots and holes help cool the disk preventing brake fade while driving with the brakes on for a while, such as descending a steep hill or mountain, or on a track where you're always either braking or accelerating. But in theory the lost area could decrease total stopping power. Mind you even the stock brakes function at about 1000 HP to reach NTSB specification for passenger vehicle braking systems.
 
#25 ·
honestly i would skip the EBC rotors simply due to price. I sell the EBC rotors for the SVTF for ~$300 a pair for the fronts. for that price I would rather get the DBA 4000 series rotors, or for less money the Centric PowerSlots. I will say that all 3 are good solid choices, with the PowerSlots being the cheapest and the EBC the most expensive, however I personally run the DBA rotors on my VR4 with Hawk pads.

You could go cheaper and go with a blank rotor like the Centric Premiums which still have the better material and coating but no slots. whatever you do though, stay away from fully drilled rotors as they have a tendency to crack.
 
#26 ·
You could go cheaper and go with a blank rotor like the Centric Premiums which still have the better material and coating but no slots. whatever you do though, stay away from fully drilled rotors as they have a tendency to crack.
Those are the rotors I use on both my Cougar and Mark VIII and have nothing but good things to say about them.
 
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