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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Types of possible 3L builds (courtesy of CEG) that you can choose from:

Label


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Diagram


Final version is the Full 3L which is a 3L block/3L heads/3L intakes.

What build do I go with:

PORTED 3L

On a Port Matched 3L you need to port match the 3L heads so you can bolt up your 2.5L intakes. The best way to block off the 3L injector ports is to buy a set of porting plates that can be sealed to the heads with high temp gasket maker (permatex gold). The heads can be welded instead of using plates but it would require the heads to be milled flat so the lower intake gasket is sitting on a perfectly flat surface. A ported 3L should be installed like a stock 2.5L. All the 2.5L intakes bolt up and the stock vacuum line routing is followed. This motor should look identical to a 2.5L when finished. The fuel system on the car which the motor is installed will remain the same since the fuel rail and harness from the stock 2.5L will swap over to the 3L engine.

FULL 3L
If you want to stick with the 3L intakes and do a Full 3L you have other issues. Depending on the year of the 3L your stock 2.5L coil pack will bolt to the stock 2.5L valve covers (assuming you even use them) due to the 3L intake. Some bolt it to the firewall or front valve cover. Some use COP which comes on the 03+ 3L motors but the wiring can be tricky and if done incorrectly you can fry your ECU. The stock 2.5L EGR tube will not work with the 3L intake. Either you make a custom tube or you remove the EGR completely and have it removed from the ECU via a tune. The 3L fuel rail is significantly different and creates issues. A custom rail must be made or an adapter block can be used to convert the returnless 3L rail into a return rail for the early 99 Cougars. If you have a returnless Cougar (5/99 on) I hear certain 3L rails will bolt up (Escape). The lower intake manifold does not have secondary butterflies so the IMRC used on the stock 2.5L cannot be used on a full 3L. Without the IMRC the full 3L car will have no power down low. To fix this issue you need to have the car tuned (IMRC removed and lots of timing added down low). The 3L intake also creates issues with the vacuum lines. All the vacuum lines are routed differently and it takes some ingenuity to get it setup correctly. The TPS sensor wiring may need to be extended to reach. The injector wiring runs into issues with the 3L intake and some trimming of the plastic injector harness cover is needed. The 3L throttle body needs to have a custom throttle body bracket made. However it is possible to flip the 2.5L SVT throttle body bracket upside down and use it that way but there may be issues with the cruise control cable reaching. Generally the best bracket is a 3L and a 2.5L SVT bracket cut up and welded together.

HYBRID 3L
Previously this was very popular before people started porting out the 3L heads and some still like going with this setup. 2.5L heads are installed on the 3L block. The block needs to have some passages blocked off which are not present in the 2.5L heads. This build allows users to keep the stock appearance like the ported build. Drawbacks from a ported or full 3L build is the smaller valves in the 2.5L heads but 3L valves can be installed with some head work also the 3L heads have more oil drainbacks in the heads which help bring oil back down to the pan to prevent oil starvation. Compression raises to a 11.2:1 which can be good and bad. It should raise hp output but could also be prone to detonation (premium fuel only). If you use 2001/2002 heads they have been revised to include the additional oil passages, so nothing in the block needs to be plugged.

*Note 1: In any 3L build the blocks still need to be modified to accept the 2.5L alternator bracket, the transmission input bushing needs to be cut or removed (MTX only), and hole tapped for the 2.5L knock sensor (unless using the 3L sensor). For the Tuarus/Sable engines the pulse wheel under the timing cover must be moved to the 2.5L key way or the engine will never start (already set correctly on the Escape motors). If using a SVT oil cooler tabs needs to be trimmed near the transmission mating surface. If using a Sable/Taurus motor the oil pan is slightly different and will not allow the use of two lower transmission bolts (some swap on an updated Escape pan) but this won't prevent you from using it.

*Note 2: I've run into a high amount of junkyard motors with bearing issues. Before spending time installing or modifying any 3L motor remove the oil pan and check for bearing chunks. Look specifically in the pickup (closely). Small metal spirals are generally bearing pieces and can indicate that the motor spun a bearing. Motors with spun bearings will knock badly and eventually self destruct (throw rod through side of block). It is possible to check the rod for play manually. Usually I try to move the rod by hand left and right. There should be very little to no movement. Some front to back movement is normal. Some have noted bearing chunks in the pan, used the motor anyway, and been perfectly fine. Personally I haven't wanted to take the risk but I did buy 10 3L motors in a row with bearing chunks from all across the US. Installing new bearings is probably a very good idea. Clevite sells very good quality replacement bearings that should be considered by everyone doing a 3L build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Advantages/Disadvantages - Thanks to Brad Noon for these.

Advantages for the 2001+ 3.0L are:


-The injector position is better in the 2001 intake/head design.
-The plastic intake conducts less heat to the incoming air charge.
-The water pump placement is similar to the factory 2.5 water pump placement, meaning fewer modifications to the hoses.
-The high velocity oval port design used along with revised intake cams provide better midrange power without the drop off produced by the older design at the RPM when the secondaries opened.
-SVT cams swap right in.

The Disadvantages for the 2001+ 3.0L are:


-The plastic intake can't take very much porting without fear of cracking.
-The heads don't accept the 2.5L intakes without port matching or an adapter plate.


Advantages for the '98-'99 3.0L engines are:

-The 2.5L intakes fit the 3L heads without modifications.
-Using the 3.0L heads would require an electric water pump. Could be good or bad depending on how you look at it. For this case, it's good that you got a cheaper price on the engine itself, so that you can pay the $300 for the water pump and controller (never pay list price, LOL!). Plus you can have fun with the extra 5-7 HP that it saves in parasitic losses over the factory pump.


Disadvantages for the '98-'99 3.0L are:


-Higher mileage blocks may require more machine work to return to the road.
-Use of aftermarket water pump may be required, which involves a custom installation.
 

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RE:FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Originally posted by: plance1
what about the 2000 3liter?
The 2000 3.0L has features of both the 99' and earlier 3.0L's as well as the 2001+ 3.0L's.

It features oval port single runner heads, plastic UIM/LIM, but does not use a cam driven water pump.
To do a straight swap with a 2000 3.0L one would require the use of a electrc water pump. It would be best
suited for a hybrid swap.

-Matt
 

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Re:faq - most of your 3l questions answered

3L oval port head porting...

Go to my site.

Click on the link (that NOW works) under engine. (head porting)


Read the rest of the site too.


Real Soon I will be posting some of my scriblings too.
Tech info, specs, measurements, et cetera.


Just like I told everyone that asked.


The porting pictures are up now.

Pretty general descriptions. It may get more in depth if I get some free time.


NewShore - Archives


Greg
 

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RE: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Using an Escape motor (2001, may vary for later years though unlikely)

You will use your stock Cougar alternator. CougarGT's how-to thread on doing the swap explains about cutting off an ear from the block to accomodate the Cougar alternator bracket.

In addition, there is a bushing that will have to be cut flush to fit, also explained in CougarGT's how-to guide.

When using 2.5L heads and ignition system, you will need to ENSURE the pulse wheel (spark timing wheel) is set onto the shaft with the key placed in the 2.5L mark, otherwise your timing will be off and the car will not start. I'm not 100% sure if you use a full 3L swap.
 

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RE:FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

IMPORTANT REBUILD INFORMATION ABOUT ROD BOLTS

The instructions on the Ford manuals, when pertaining to the 3L, do not have the extra 90 degree rotation for the rod bolts listed.

That is crucial for retaining torque of the "stretch" bolts!



All 2.5L instructions show the correct procedure and you should follow the 2.5L instructions anyway but if you were just looking at the 3L instructions thinking "the bottom end or whole engine is a 3L" then I could easily see making this mistake.


3L Instructions

Install the connecting rod caps and bolts.

~ Tighten the bolts in two stages.

~ Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

~ Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).

That's it! :banghead:


2.5L Instructions - The Correct Way

CAUTION:
When assembling the connecting rods and connecting rod caps, it is imperative that bearing slots and tangs be located on the same side of the connecting rods.

CAUTION:
Connecting rod bolts are tighten to yield and must not be reused.

Position the connecting rod cap on the appropriate connecting rod and alternately tighten the bolts in three stages as indicated.

~ Stage 1: 23 Nm

~ Stage 2: 43 Nm

~ Stage 3: 90 degrees


The rod bolts & connecting rods are the same parts for both engines.

MAKE SURE you use the 2.5L instructions.
 

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Re: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

aussiemike said:
Someone posted a detailed article on converting the 2.5 Duratec with a 3.0 block. We are doing this project with a '99 Sable 3.0 and will use the 2.5 SVT heads and other components from our Contour race car. The original poster gave some great info, but he also mentioned the need to plug "2 oil return holes" in the block. His pictures are not archived and we are not finding any such holes that might need to be blocked or plugged. Anyone have any input? Thanks aussiemike
Once you place the 2.5L gasket on the block you'll see which holes need to be plugged. Thankfully, it won't be brain surgery to do it. :)
 

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Re: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

I am doing a full 3.0 swap into my CSVT. What do I need to do with the IMRC? I have read you leave it hooked up to a spring (not what I want) and also that you can just leave it off and not wired and not get a CEL. What have you guys done?

I am also looking to extract the ATX bushing from the crank rather than cut it off. I have packed the hole with grease, but I need a better weapon to attack it with than my 17mm socket and extension. Any ideas other than cut it off or is that the most common solution?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Only way around the IMRC trick is to get a chip burnt from ADC that will eliminate the IMRC and give you the timing you need down low.

As far as the bushing. I've aways cut it off. I'm not sure what a socket and extension have to do with the bushing though. Your suppose to get a dowel and tap it in. That pushes the bushing out.
 

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Re: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

I was substituting the socket for the dowel...will a wood dowel work? I was trying to avoid grinding, seems rather crude.

What have you typically done with the IMRC on your swaps? Don't the ADC chips cost close to $500? Iwon't have much more than that in the whole swap, maybe best bet is to leave the IMRC hooked up, but just cut off the cable?
 

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Re: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Is it possible to swap a ('99) 2.0L with a 3L? Or just the 2.5?
you can but it really isn't worth the work, you would need a 2.5L parts car for everything that you need ...
 

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Re: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Links

CEG - 3.0L Performance
Bangcougar No Longer Exists. I will add the how-to to my personal webspace shortly!
David Zambrano - FAQ's

Not sure if you clicked on the link on the second post of this thread. But it states if you swap the heads from the 2.5 and put them on the 3L block it will up the compresion to 11.1 to 1. so I would say you would gain some power if you took the heads of the 2.5 off and put them on a 3l block.
 

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Re: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Not sure if you clicked on the link on the second post of this thread. But it states if you swap the heads from the 2.5 and put them on the 3L block it will up the compresion to 11.1 to 1. so I would say you would gain some power if you took the heads of the 2.5 off and put them on a 3l block.
if i read correctly...i can use 2.5 heads on a full 3l and maybe get more power out of it and it wont be a big difference than the 3l heads(installation wise)?
 

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can you do it, yes, BUT all but 2 of them have blown up. it is much easier, and much more reliable to do a full swap, or a portmatched 3L to use the 2.5 uim on the 3L block. the power isnt going to be much different, but where the power is will be. a full 3l swap will give you gobs of down low torque, but wont wind out as far. the 2.5/3L hybrid will still give you better torque low than the 2.5 but you will see more power up high
 

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Re: FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Only way around the IMRC trick is to get a chip burnt from ADC that will eliminate the IMRC and give you the timing you need down low.
Or, you can order an Xcal3 and then get a mail order tune from a place like the Nautilus Performance Group, Or, you can take the car to a place that does Dyno tuning.

this is recommended anyway, since 2.5 cougar injectors are 17lb and run around 110% duty cycle, and the 19lb SVT injectors are very close to that.

injectors 21lb and higher are recommended for any 3l, and there are injectors available with both EV1 and EV6 connection types in a range of rates and spray patterns for the various intake designs and applications. this will of course require a tune to run correctly...
 

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I would rather use a 04-05 motor. They have better oiling/cooling. Also you can probably find lower mileage 3.0L's a bit easier if you go for a newer engine.

Your numbers are a bit off as well. You will make about 190-220whp with the 3L so about 230-250 crank hp. Plus way more torque. The stock 2.5L makes around 140whp and 170 crank.
 
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