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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now trying to disassemble my engine. Went really nice till i heared some clicking noise.

Please tell me I didnt f***k up my engine reallly bad an that it is just a minor issue. Pls


I am still disassembling the engine. My next step was setting the engine on time for dissassembly of the timing chains.

Things i have my doubts about:

by disassembling the crank pulley
bolt i had to put so much force with my breaker bar, my pulley may turned like max 2 cm (Less than an inch) counterclockwise. Was giving a counter force with waterpump pliers so the pulley didnt turn. But as i said it still turned a little bit counterclockwise when trying to dissassemble.

also when i put the pulley on for turning the timing, i also put the pulley wheel on. Big mistake. But i used a rubber hammer VERY VERY SUBTLE to get it off again. Also it was just on the edge of the crank so it didnt cost that much effort. But it got me thinking after this clicking.

I am so careful with this engine and if this pooped it up i will be very very veryy sadd

Also now i dont feel comfortable turning it as it feels it is getting blocked. :0

 

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Are you saying you're trying to keep the all the shafts perfectly still in hopes that you can just put the chains back on without following the timing procedure?
That's almost certain to fail. It might not even be possible.
Just take the chains off. Once the tensioners are removed they come right off.
Plan on putting them back on correctly. Its not an easy process but its not brain surgery either, just follow the manual and be meticulous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And this is the thing i tried to do (positioning crank at 11 o clock) before removing the chains, when i noticed the clicking:
0CBF5234-FAC4-4345-84FD-BFBD72323474.png

Hope it makes it a bit more clear, as my explanation can be a bit messy, sorry.

anyway thanks already for helping me.
 

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The chains clicking together wouldn't worry me. In the partial state of disassembly, the components are floating around a little bit. Just push the chains away from each other and move on.
The shaft getting difficult to turn is normal too, your just fighting the compression stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for clearing things up, now i can proceed my disassembly again! :).

thought so too about the compression, but I already removed the spark plugs. Does it still somehow make compression.

lots of thanks,
Jurre
 

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No, your right. With plugs removed you shouldn't be fighting compression.
You are probably just fighting valve springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is it just me or does rh side looks completely out of time?
9A2F34DB-D3DA-4490-BE1C-69B59B96A3E6.jpeg

FABAB194-F319-4489-B043-4842979014ED.png

And why is for the installation the lhnside the same as for removal, but the rh different?
050A4071-2FD9-4D31-AEE3-FD7B69594BE2.png

5C298F5F-8D5A-4A41-9805-DCD61BB94FED.png
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry for the spam and chaos, posting all by phone, it’s hell.
Oh and i cant turn clockwise anymore since everything is stuck for some reason.
One more pic.
3C1C514D-6EF1-433D-9234-1DAC92F69CD9.jpeg

Lh side seems right but only needs another crankshaft turn if im right
 

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I would be reluctant to believe the timing was wrong if the car was running correctly.
 

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Note: the timing marks/links are NEVER going to line up once the engine is turned over once. Those marks are set with the colored links when the chains are installed, and they will never match up again. The different number of teeth on the crank vs cam sprockets, and the different number of chain links on each side of the sprockets, mean that the links never line up the same way twice. There's no way to visually tell if the engine is out of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i know the chain link marks wont match up again after marking and turning the engine, but if the crank sprocket is at 11 or 3, the cam sprockets should also be at a specific location once every two revolutions right?
I thought one camshaft turn takes two crankshaft turns.

In that case my cam sprocket marks are different than in the books.

the lh side seems the same as in the books.

i used this video to learn understanding the timjng setup of a 3,0l which shares a lot with the duratec 2.5.

Ofcourse some things are different, but thats why i have the workshop manual for the 2,5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so i went on a bit further. Made an inline 3 of it.
IMG_0286.JPG

IMG_0284.JPG


Now one more question. Not saying that I did.... But if i did....maybe, drop 1 camshaft follower. Does this have very big consequences?
It seems fine, but do i need to replace al followers if one is broken?

Thanks.

Oh and i didn't drop one, the engine did.
 

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I don't see any reason you would have to replace all of them. I wouldn't.

Why are you tearing this engine down in the first place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My main engine started smoking and had pieces of metal in the uppers. Uppers were also soaked in oil, also i had a nasty sound what sounded like a crankshaft bearing or rod bearing, the other engine is in a storage box, with a car frame, stuff from trees fell into the combustion chambers when dismantling the uppers. Wasnt planning to swap my block without knowing whats going on. And i dont have space for removing my main engine yet and swap them over. Also i don't have money and a job atm. I'm not really in a hurry anymore to fix it. I wanna try to rebuild it eventually and keep learning from it, even if i dont succeed.


Thanks for the answer.
Reason i thought replacing all of them is that you have to put the camshaft followers back at the same place as they came from, because of wear i thought.

Oh and I really appreciate your activity at the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Anyone has a link for the proper connecting rod guide set? For removing the pistons from the engine?
Thanks :)
 
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