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· T3/T4 60-1
8,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I wanted to install it, but i wanted it to look clean when you open it also, and well i also wanted to be able to remove it any time.....

so what i did takes time, but it looks AWESOME!!!

I have a few pics, but forgot them at home on the digi, so i'll post them later to show what i mean.

Anyhow here's my how to:

1) remove right rear wheel and wheel well
2) remove stock fuel door
3) remove entire stock fuel door assembly (you may need to reach from inside wheel well to pop the tabs off
4) remove the one visible bolt on the fuel filler pipe to allow it to move around some
5) look on the fuel filler pipe... see that aluminum cut, well you'll need to remove it. there are 4 spot welds holding it on, if you use a dremmel with a flex shaft you can actually reach and cut around thoses 4 tabs... using a pair of good snips will also help
6) take some jb weld and go over the 4 spot welds for the "just in case"... an exposed weld is not good for rust, and even worse if you actually punctured the filler pipe
7) remove the rubber seal on the alum fuel door... it's useless and will only make the door stick out some
8) place alum fuel door in hole and notice where you'll need to grind/file the 6 tabs to make it fit flush to clear the 6 screws on the fuel door
9) to get the filler pipe to fit properly through the hole, you'll need to slightly file the hold... notice the filler pipe has 2 tabs on it that you'll need to clear
10) now take your time and line it all up... put the actual gas cap in there and make sure it locks... double/triple/quadruple check....
11) i ended needing to slightly move the filler pipe bolt hole that hyou removed in step 4... nothing an oversized sheet metal screw and a small pilot hole can't do... don't bolt it up permanently yet so for not use a small sheet metal screw (use the bigger one later on)...
12) go to home depot and buy 1 piece of 3/4" wide aluminum (1/8" thick)... shoudl be found in the hardware aisle next to the aluminum and stell tubing
13) from the aluminum you are going to make 3 brackets. the brackets will bolt into the quater panel on the inside and into the 3 holes on the fuel door cup... take your time, use plubmer strap first to get the right shape for the brackets then cut/grind/bend/drill them into shape... again measure like 5 times before you actually start to make it permanent.... i was able to get a drill in the fuel door area to drill out 2 of the pilot holes on the quarter panel... the other hole i came up from the wheel well, and actually drilled it right into an area where the quarter panel bends at the bottom area of the fuel door... when you are doing this it should become move obvious... basically when looking up from the wheel well area, the outside of the car portion of the quarter panel bends about 3" below where the fuel cup would go... i drilled right into this bend... remeber to use a small drill bit... theses are pilot holes, the sheet metal screws will do all the holding just fine
14) after measuing about 15 more times bolt in your brackets... i used normal #8 screws (about 3/4" long)... oh and don't go for nuts and lock washers... get nylon lock nuts instead... also you'll need washers on the cup side (outside) so the screws don't manage to bore a hole through....
15) bolt in your filler pipe....
16) put the rest back together you are done

during this whole process be ready to continuously make minor adjustements in the form of griding out the cup hole for the filler pipe some, as well as making sure the tabs you had to grind out are done just right... i like to grind a little at first and grind again and again a little more rather than overdoing it and getting screwed.....


This method I didn't choose to do, because you end up bolting the cup to the filler pipe instead. I didn't like this idea as much because the filler pipe is not bolted to the quarter panel and on a unibody car where body flex is a big issue i didn't want to risk the fuel door moving independantly of the quarter panel... mind you i know someone who has done it the following way and it worked great for them, i just didn't do it this way... but here's that how to anyhow

1-4) repeat same steps as above
5) this time instead of removing that whole cup on the filler pipe, you are going to flatten it... you can either dremmel a bunch of lines in it to flatten it, dremmel around the entire cup bend and remove that lip, or use a combination of snips and/or dremmel or whatever you need to do.... just make that filler cup flat....
6) remove rubber seal on alum fuel door
7) fit the fuel door and grind your tabs to make clearance for the fuel door screws
8) file out the fuel cup to allow the filler pipe to clear it
9) get 3 sheet metal screws and bolt the fuel cup right into the fuel filler pipe cup that you flattened
10) put it all back together

the difference between the 2 methods isn't necessarily time as it takes much more time to flatten the filler pipe cup then it does to just cut it off above the 4 spot welds... but the time to make the brackets would make both about equivalent in time.... it's really upto you which way you want to go, one requires some light fabrication, the other requires patience while cutting the cup... however both provide an unsurpased look and feel to the fuel door... it doesn't stick out like i have seen on other installations, and when you open it up it looks like 1 whole unit (because it is) and not pieced together from many parts (stock and not).....

ok my fingers hurt from typing.... use the printer friendly version of this thread and print it :)

· w00t!
25,017 Posts
i like the way we did it when i was down there visiting Puck :)

our 'epoxy & 30 seconds' install :biggrin:

good= a faster install isn't possible
bad= it cant come off...ever, which is maybe good for anti-theft purposes?
ugly= the epoxy is good for 3000psi... so seriously, its never coming off :tongue:
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