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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Clutch is a Spec Stage 2, flywheel is a LuK, TOB was new when doing both about 3-5k miles ago.

This was working fine before the engine was out for a rebuild (full 3.0), the first few weeks after reinstalling it also behaved normally (to an extent) in that it pulled like a train. Recently the hydraulic line going to the slave cylinder kept popping off because the retainer clip was stretched so I'm sure it swallowed air in the few times I pumped it not knowing what happened.

Ever since securing it, and bleeding it a few times, the clutch doesn't grab at all under normal driving. I can shift through all the gears no problem, but it always feels like you're in an automatic the shifts are so smooth when letting off the clutch even when purposely dumping it. When accelerating it behaves like the clutch is slipping because RPM's are climbing, but car isn't increasing speed. Only when it starts to get up past 3k does the torque come in briefly. Passing in 5th gear feels like it did before.

If you're in 1st and dump the clutch, it'll stall. Same if you put it in 4th and try to accelerate from a roll. So I don't think the clutch is glazed or there's an issue with the TOB because it will bite. I'm also not building pressure when pumping the clutch with the car off. It'll just keep maintaining the same resistance.

The few times I bled it before there was some slit in the fluid and we got it mostly out. But I'm just not sure if this has air trapped still and is just a ***** to get out. I'm not losing fluid so there's no leaks I can see.
 

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I feel like this has to be a master or slave cylinder problem. Since you have had ongoing hydraulic issues, it fits the trend.
I would replace the slave cylinder and probably the master too, and start from scratch on the hydraulic system. Pull the lines and blow them out to make sure there's no debris inside them.
If its not a hydraulic issue than its a mechanical one which means your pulling it all back apart again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The only thing that's making me hesitate on it being either cylinder as the root cause (and this is from looking both here and on contour.org) is it's a problem that can be immediately traced to when it popped the hydraulic line off at the slave due to a weak retainer clip, also the slave is new (master isn't tho). I've bled it, manually, 3 times now but only till I wasn't seeing air after a few pumps.

Not sure how difficult these can be to bleed as I've never really had to. I've also seen conflicting info on if you can use a vac bleeder on this setup because we use a remote reservoir. Tempted to try cracking the bleeder and letting it sit for a couple days and see if gravity helps.
 

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Gravity bleed has always worked for me. I've also used a vacuum bleeder on the slave when I flushed the brake fluid entirely.
 

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Maybe a clog or stuck check valve in the return line caused you to overpressurize the lines, leading to blowing it apart and stretching the retainer, and damaging the seals inside the cylinders. That would explain the slave not fully returning when released, and the lack of pressure build up.

Thats a wild story, I know...But the current symptoms point to a mechanical issue and its hard to imagine that just happening to develop out of the blue after working fine on initial assembly than having hydraulic problems.

A hydraulic system diagram would be nice...
 

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Whered you get the TOB from? Seen alot of 4Cyl TOB's end up in the case.

Also im suspect of spec because they have a 100% failure rate on these cars.
 

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This oily clutch theory holds a lot more water than anything else...You might be screwed.
(Except this paragraph doesnt really match:
"If you're in 1st and dump the clutch, it'll stall. Same if you put it in 4th and try to accelerate from a roll. So I don't think the clutch is glazed or there's an issue with the TOB because it will bite. I'm also not building pressure when pumping the clutch with the car off. It'll just keep maintaining the same resistance.")

You could try blasting the snot out of it with some sort of evaporative solvent. Maybe a little utility pump with a spray nozzle on a hose, pumping some isopropyl or acetone but I dont know how you would access the whole thing well enough to be effective.
 

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I would continue to try to bleed the slave. Once a clutch starts slipping it takes a minute to clean off the glazing, it could be toast.

If you decide you want another clutch and for some reason you are ok with Spec My friend has a used Spec stage 3+ we pulled from that turbo cougar awhile ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Used a mighty-vac to see what I could get and a lot of large air bubbles came out followed by some micro bubbles for a while which I read is expected sometimes. Gave it a good flush using 1/2 a bottle of fluid.

Grabs a lot better now, but still not where I remember. Perhaps it's glazed some from driving it how it was.
 
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