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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How to Clean the IMRC:

Tools needed, 1/4 inch rachet and short extension. 7mm socket ( I AM CANADIAN ), medium sized phillips screw driver. Flat screw driver. Permatex automotive silicon seal, your colour choice. Silicon sealant is optional but I suggest using it.

1. Remove 3 bolts holding Duratech plastic cover in place.
2. Remove 4 screws of IMRC cover.
3. Carefully pry cover off case.
4. Using air in a can or filtered compressed air, blow out the case.
5. Gently lift motor so its gear disengages and support it with something non-conductive. ( I used a piece of tree twig , was close at foot :) )
6. Spray motor with cleaner ( make sure it is safe for small electric motors.
7. Apply power ( negative and positive to board and let motor run 15-20 secs. Positive is top left on board ( red wire underneath, and negative is bottom contact, black wire underneath.
8. Air clean once more and using clean rag and q-tips clean and liquid out of case.
9. Lightly grease gears with a high temp light grease.
10. Apply a smearing of silicone sealant to cover ( to keep out moisture ) and set cover in place.
11. Replace cover cover and tighten screws. Wipe all araoung cleaning up over spray, sealant, etc.
12. ReplaceDuratech cover and tighten 3 bolts.
13. Go have a cold one, you are done, car is ready to RUN...
:bowdown:
 
G

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My IMRC on my early 99 only gets stuck closed when the engine compartment is hot or the box with the motor is.... Will the clean help any? Or would I be better off to just purchase a new IMRC from fpo
 

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I was told I need to do this. Can somebody post some pics of the IMRC, I have NO idea what it is. And what does it do? What does IMRC stand for?
 

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Look at me! Look at me!
IntakeManifoldRunnerControl

And it handles the opening and closing of your butterflies.
 

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You guys got me curious, so I checked mine out last night... Clean as a whistle at 70k... ? I guess that's good news.
 

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So, you are recommending we drink and drive?

haha jk, thanks for the how to
 

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Possibly fail to open your secondaries at 4500 RPMs ... you wont feel that minor kick at that level and you will have little high end HP... I think youll also run realy rich at the 4500+ mark since the engine will poor enough fuel in for the secondaries to be open but with out them open youll get half the air you need for the mix.
 

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im about to do this, but will it void the warranty??
 

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what are the ideal products to use for this prodcedure? i have a can of electrical component cleaner in an aerosol, is that what you recommend? also, you mention a high temp light grease. can you give an example of what specifically constitutes a high temp light grease? and for giving power to the motor, will a nine-volt with a couple of wires attached do the trick, or should i run it from the car's battery?

thanks.
 
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