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i have a 1999 mazda 626,4 cyl,and i think a cd4e trans,it has a pan on the side and you can only get to the filtre if you disasmble it.what i need to know is what type of trans fluid should i use???
 

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:banghead:i have a 1999 mazda 626,4 cyl,and i think a cd4e trans,it has a pan on the side and you can only get to the filtre if you disasmble it.what i need to know is what type of trans fluid should i use???
 

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Hi, i'm trying to view your rebuild but the link seems be bad... I have rebuild my transsmision and i post all about that recently... Now i have problems with the transmision and i'd like to see you photos to find my mistake. I think that maybe when i put the Low one-way clutch, i put it in a bad position... so i need photos of that piece.

Please, can you fix that link or send me photos of that part?... Thankyou very much.
 

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Rebuild link is down again
 

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I have a 2000 Cougar 2.5 auto transmission.
I have a bad leak from the pump cover plate/body behind the driver's side wheel (the leak is coming from the transmission pump). Is it possible to remove the plate and replace the gasket/o-ring with the transmission in the car(without dropping the transmission)? Can someone please help?
 

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You absolutely cannot pull the pump assembly out and get it back in again. Getting it out is easy, unfortunately, there are so many parts that build on top of each other in that parts stack that it is absolutely impossible to get the pump back in again. Those parts must stack in assembly from the other side of trans with it removed from car. Sorry.

Signed: not so quick reply....................
 

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For a sticky, the links are broken on the rebuild...
 

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I have a 2000 Cougar 2.5 auto transmission.
I have a bad leak from the pump cover plate/body behind the driver's side wheel (the leak is coming from the transmission pump). Is it possible to remove the plate and replace the gasket/o-ring with the transmission in the car(without dropping the transmission)? Can someone please help?
Dropping the trans is probably your best bet, I have a manual and had to drop mine for clutch is not that heavy just had to pull most of the motor mounts and tilt engine to clear my body kit
 

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Hell, it has a hard time handling stock power with an Escape motor. that being said, I'm one of the lucky guys that still runs the original trans at over 160,000 miles on the 2.5L.

Word of warning : the CD4E's reliability or lack thereof is infamous, it was never designed to be coupled to powerful engines or for performance use, and it's too tall geared for performance use compared to the manual MTX-75. there are some exceptions, I believe a few of the guys are running CD4Es for AutoX since first gear is so tall. But otherwise, like most fellas here, I'd ditch it. You can try your hand with a custom swap with an Aisin AWF-21 or some such, or go with a manual MTX-75, which our cars came stock with. Both of those are geared WAY better and will handle the power.


for the actual question,

modifying it's tables in the ECU to shift firmer and reduce gear overlap is going to help with heat, reduce slip, and even help with the life of the trans. most stock boxes 'overlap' two gears using the clutch packs, if I understand correctly, during shift points in order to smooth out the shift for better comfort. Problem is, that builds heat, which is your main enemy in an ATX. it also puts wear on the clutches.

there is a transgo shift kit available for this transmission. I can't help you there, but it's worth mentionning :biggrin:

Also, CD4Es don't have serviceable filters or external coolers. if you're going to modify your car and keep the automatic, it's generally accepted you should get a good trans cooler fitted and an external, serviceable filter fitted as well.

Lastly, as with any Trans, there's a myriad of treatments and coatings the actual gears could use to help take the power, but I didn't research this much yet. I stopped searching after I understood the gearing problem and power limits of the CD4E.

I've looked for an LSD that'll fit the Automatic, and couldn't find anything. it sucks, because then perhaps at least we'd be able to modify the final drive. there isn't any torque converter options either, although i'm not sure how that would help.

welcome to the forums, by the way :)
 

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Hell, it has a hard time handling stock power with an Escape motor. that being said, I'm one of the lucky guys that still runs the original trans at over 160,000 miles on the 2.5L.

Word of warning : the CD4E's reliability or lack thereof is infamous, it was never designed to be coupled to powerful engines or for performance use, and it's too tall geared for performance use compared to the manual MTX-75. there are some exceptions, I believe a few of the guys are running CD4Es for AutoX since first gear is so tall. But otherwise, like most fellas here, I'd ditch it. You can try your hand with a custom swap with an Aisin AWF-21 or some such, or go with a manual MTX-75, which our cars came stock with. Both of those are geared WAY better and will handle the power.


for the actual question,

modifying it's tables in the ECU to shift firmer and reduce gear overlap is going to help with heat, reduce slip, and even help with the life of the trans. most stock boxes 'overlap' two gears using the clutch packs, if I understand correctly, during shift points in order to smooth out the shift for better comfort. Problem is, that builds heat, which is your main enemy in an ATX. it also puts wear on the clutches.

there is a transgo shift kit available for this transmission. I can't help you there, but it's worth mentionning :biggrin:

Also, CD4Es don't have serviceable filters or external coolers. if you're going to modify your car and keep the automatic, it's generally accepted you should get a good trans cooler fitted and an external, serviceable filter fitted as well.

Lastly, as with any Trans, there's a myriad of treatments and coatings the actual gears could use to help take the power, but I didn't research this much yet. I stopped searching after I understood the gearing problem and power limits of the CD4E.

I've looked for an LSD that'll fit the Automatic, and couldn't find anything. it sucks, because then perhaps at least we'd be able to modify the final drive. there isn't any torque converter options either, although i'm not sure how that would help.

welcome to the forums, by the way :)
Thank you for the info and the welcome, i do not want to fit a stick shift box as i like the auto for every day driving, mine done 118,000 and has only had a fluid change so far and seems to be working fine, if there is nothing much you can do to it performance wise i will ditch the supercharger idea and aim for around 200bhp via other ways, i alrady fitted a twin cat back system and free flow air filter so looks like a st200 uim and TB seems the next step, a trans cooler would seem wise to fit if i can get one in the UK.
 

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to anyone who wants it out of fords Manuel...

The files are huge, but that is because I like to be able to zoom in with all the small details. I have the ENTIRE factory book, Not on CD so I have to scan it. If anyone needs more info such as the codes chart, I may upload it. Sorry for the crappy alignment but these books are not cheap; rather they were not when i got them.


UPDATE:: I included the transmission codes and what the factory procedure for their diagnosis is. Please pay close attention to these. Keep in mind to do any further testing you need a rotundra breakoutbox and ngs computer scanner with an overlay sheet for the breakout box. If you have a solenoid code, it is bad. if you have doubts, take it to someone with a tester to test it.

if you want the devices to test it, here are the numbers:

*CD4E Cable and Overlay:
007-00125 or equivalant

*Breakout Box EEC-V Control System
418-049 (T94L-50-EEC-V) or equivalent

*MLP-d Cable: CD4E '94 and UP
007-00129 or equivalent

*Preferably A DANM good scan tool, if not, my fav tool that can read transmission codes, srs system, engine and abs...
Bosch OBD 1300


You can test the coil under load with ohms, but their is ALOT of math and factors that can call this test invalid. the breakout box uses the actual cars load that the coil will be under which is perfect for a test environment.

THEIR ARE ALOT of oasis bulletins and fixes for this, but the main problem with this transmission is runaway line pressure because of valve body wear..it breaks down very easy , more so then others and will at some point cause the drums snap ring to snap and or explode in the tranny. this is not a matter of if it happens but when. The problem has to be corrected with a complete sonnax valve body bore/rebuild. For the poster asking about mods? this is it. Have the valve body rebuilt, then throw in cryo dipped gears with some better clutch packs from trans star and a better drum also from trans star. When all of these are applied, your transmission will last for a good long while.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rprt6hmufx138xv/AACoaFJ1ZtthmwRY-hZ8gsOOa?dl=0
 
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