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Discussion Starter #1
The simplest and cheapest thing to do for more camber is add in the Moog/SPC camber adjustment mounts in the stock position.

Pros: super cheap, easy to implement
Cons: very little range of adjustment

Otherwise there is the PRT solution, involving the removal of the shock towers and welding in new steel, then adding in camber/caster pillow ball mounts.

Pros: vastly expanded range of adjustment
Cons: more costly, very difficult and time-consuming to implement

Could there be a third option?

While watching Ken Block's latest house Hoonigan video, I noted the camber/caster plate on the 5.0 Fox Mustang that was just completed. Unlike the 2 options we have, where the adjustment mechanism sits below or within the strut tower, these mount ABOVE the strut tower on spacers.

80967


Pros: no cutting/welding involved, just some drilling. Also raises top mount point for wider range of ride height adjustment.
Cons: hood clearance?

Is there any other reason, besides potential hood clearance issues, why a solution like this wouldn't be easily adaptable to this platform?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Thinking more about it, I guess the upper spring seat is the catch with this; without the stock mount, there's no place to put that.

I dunno, it seems to me there should be a way to have some pieces machined to hold that in place, that would make it simpler than chopping out the tops of your strut towers...

Maybe carve the center out of the stock mount and sandwich that in there to hold the spring seat in place? I'm thinking out loud without any of the pieces in front of me.
 

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It seems like however you skin the cat, there's no getting around enlarging the hole in the strut tower. I imagine even that Mustang is cut up underneath those plates.
 

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Won't werk. Just like the SPC kit, not a big enough hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It seems like however you skin the cat, there's no getting around enlarging the hole in the strut tower. I imagine even that Mustang is cut up underneath those plates.
I don't know; if only the stud on the top of the strut is coming through there, the hole might already be plenty large enough. Even so, I'd much rather make it a little bigger with a hole saw or something than totally cut the top off and have to weld. Drilling out the welds on the cup underneath the tower should make more than enough room under there for whatever you need.

those towers look basically flat as well. i was surprised at how much material there was in there when i cut them out. I think i did a How To on it here
Yeah, the flat tops are nice, which we don't have. But ours are not THAT crazy; at least they are smooth. The towers on the Cooper S have all kinds of ridges and bends pressed into them for strength (PS - it doesn't work). I guess maybe the spacers would have to be angled a little on the bottom.

I might cut up the towers on my green car before sending it off to scrap, see if I can make something work.
 

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Mounting the plate on top could be an option. I would worry if the strut tower top is strong enough material with just using the 3 bolts or whatever to hold it in place rather then using the entire top of the tower, especially if you cut the inside piece out our strut mounts currently seat into. Other concern which is minimal would be hood clearance.
 
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