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New hood pins - with tethers - installed.

Finally got the Jaguar key fob remote to program, which was a huge relief.

Next autocross event is June 13th. Planning to lower the rear ride height a little before then and see how it reacts. Taking a jack with me in case I need to crank it back up.
Your build story is very interesting. Care to send me your story and pictures to be featured in an upcoming issue of ATSOTC Magazine? Send to [email protected]
 

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1999 3.0 SilFro
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Your build story is very interesting. Care to send me your story and pictures to be featured in an upcoming issue of ATSOTC Magazine? Send to [email protected]
Hey, thanks - I’d be glad to. I’ll get something together for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Did a little sawzall clearance job on the left tow hook, as the exhaust hanger seemed to be contracting it. Maybe that will keep the banging down.

Rotated tires. The wear is terrific on this new tarmac; tires should last a lot longer than before.

Still no word on the wheel spacers. Fronts have been rubbing the fender liners a little on the inside, but the outer edge is clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
2021 season is officially in the books, so it's time to start planning for the 2022 build. Initial plans:

BRAKES
The plan is to upgrade to a 12.2" 4-piston Wilwood front kit from TCE. The TCE kit uses aluminum 4-piston calipers and an aluminum rotor hat, so the unsprung weight savings is SIGNIFICANT. Wilwood claims the calipers weigh around 3.6 pounds each. I've got room for a 13" kit, but the price difference doesn't work out for me, so I'm going with the 12.2, and we'll see how it does. I'll need to upgrade the pads, probably to their E Compound, since this isn't even remotely a daily driver anymore. Hopefully the squeak isn't too bad. I think I can get WAY more aggressive on throttle if I'm able to brake harder. Even on the 300mm rotors, these stock calipers and Hawk street pads just don't bite like they used to. Or maybe they do, but now I'm asking a lot more from them.

SUSPENSION
So far pretty happy with the D2 coilovers; they seem to be a lot more responsive than the KSport dampers, and the spring rates are definitely much better in the rear. The height-adjustment sleeve on the rear struts is seized, so I've not been able to lower the rear end as much as I want to. I've been periodically treating it with AeroKroil throughout the season, and now that it's not being driven, I can pull the struts out and soak them upside-down to get some penetrant in the bottom of the threads. Once I get them broken loose I'll be able to set a more favorable rear ride height for some better response. I'm still considering switching the front springs over to an off-the-shelf 2.5" Eibach set, like I had on the green car, for a little more spring length and selection.

SEATS
I've decided that the Jeg's seats I've been using really aren't the best for holding me in. They are considerably lighter than the stock power leathers, so mission accomplished there, but the bolstering is minimal compared to a lot of fixed racing buckets. And since there's absolutely zero chance of a back seat ever going in this car again, I think I can safely switch over to a fixed bucket, certainly for the driver's side. It's a little further down on the list, but if the budget allows, it's happening.

HARNESSES
The 4-point harnesses in the car are pretty good. It's basically just a lap belt with a pair of suspenders though, so there's a geometry issue when you pull the shoulder straps as tight as you want them. Plus they are a little uncomfortable, as they are basically standard seat belt construction. Would like to get a cam-lock design with one central buckle that all of the belts converge into, and a wider strap, maybe with some padding over the shoulders. Depending on the seat replacement, I could also go with a 5-point to really keep things where they belong.

EXHAUST
Again, since there's no pretense of daily driver, the exhaust will most likely get modified to a side-exit affair. It's nice to have the whole tail pipe and all, but the banging around in cornering and the extra weight are two huge strikes against it. Need to do a little research about maybe finding some kind of baffles or something for street driving, but it's not crucial. And the shop I take it to in Scioto county will probably do it for like $30. SHOUT OUT TO MUSTAIN MUFFLER.

GAUGES
Still on the fence about using the A-pillar pod again, although that's an easy solution. But I do especially miss having an oil pressure gauge. So that's definitely going back in, one way or another. As mentioned earlier, I may mount them in the spot where the stereo head unit is now if I can find an elegant solution for that.

The new 2022 season build will get its own thread once the work gets underway, probably in the fall sometime.
 

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What do you think you can do to keep all four tires on the ground?
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
It flattened out last year after installing the high-rate front springs. The current springs are a little softer. The original Cougar front sway bar is always an option too instead of this softer SVT version. But really, unless I start losing the rear in corners, I’m not too concerned.
 

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But really, unless I start losing the rear in corners, I’m not too concerned.
That's what I was thinking while I was staring out the windshield last night. If you haven't exceeded the limits of the tires yet than it doesn't matter that much. If anything, you might benefit from a little rear end sliding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
There was a bit of discussion about it a few years back with Eric Nummelin talking about how his CTCC race car lifts the rear in corners, and it's a necessary evil on this chassis because the wheelbase is so long.
 

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central gauges in the radio bezel and or vents is key. you need that extra line of site on the pilar. wider belts are nice, but they are hot, and a wider strap on the waist isnt the best. a 2" belt on the waist and 3" on the shoulders would be best
 

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Hey! You have done so much work to replace parts. I really like the wheels you bought. Did you write green as a reference to the old color? The car is super, damn nice to read and watch photos, thanks for the story.
 

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That's what I was thinking while I was staring out the windshield last night. If you haven't exceeded the limits of the tires yet than it doesn't matter that much. If anything, you might benefit from a little rear end sliding.

A distinction must be made between using controlled drifting to enter a curve faster, oversteer, and another to go from 4 tires to 3 or 2 for lifting one or two wheels in a curve. For me this is the worst.
I think that everything is the regulation of the suspension, if not the Drifting cars would lift wheels and these cars in addition to having the low suspension and the Camber and Toe angles adjusted, they have very stiff and short suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Drift cars also aren't front-wheel drive. So we can't really use that for comparison. Fast Front-drive hatchbacks lift the rear in hard corners - it's always been that way since the first GTI hit the track in the 70's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Final little photoshoot of the 2021-spec car:

Wheel Tire Sky Cloud Car
Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Car Vehicle


Automotive parking light Car Tire Vehicle Wheel


Cloud Tire Wheel Vehicle Sky


Speedometer Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Steering part


Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire


Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Light
 
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I like it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
also if you get the brake kit from TCE talk to todd about what pads to use, the ones i have are a autox grade pad and they work pretty good
Great, I was already looking onto other options online; if Todd can simply make a substitution on their end, that would make everything much simpler. Thanks.
 
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