New Cougar Forum banner
61 - 80 of 96 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,556 Posts
I'm also wondering if I could move that setup over to my SVT. The trunk cylinder wouldn't be the same but the doors and ignition might.
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Is there a spot inside the remote for the PATS chip? I haven’t cracked it open yet.
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 ·
SATURDAY UPDATE -

Big brakes and Goodridge lines are installed on the front. Still waiting for the wheel spacers to arrive, so nothing on that front yet.

Did not install rear brake lines, as this car has the proportioning valve or whatever, and that makes it a female-to-female connection, so I need to come up with some kind of adapter. I made a little short section of brake line for the Roush, but I want something a little more elegant here, so they can wait.

Installed the door wiring harnesses and door panels, so the cabin is nearly complete; still need the overhead light console and sun visors, but those are buried in a pile of parts somewhere, so it's gonna take a little looking.

Swapped over the Jaguar ignition tumbler, but wasn't able to get the remote to sync up; maybe I just need to read up on how that's done. But at least I do have power locks and windows all around now. Took a while, because for some reason I had not plugged in the PATS light on the dashboard; no idea what I was thinking when I put that panel on, but everything was screwed up in there, so I had to pull that panel and get the wiring routed correctly.

Modified the front trans mount and bolted it up. Not difficult, thankfully. Installed the little bumper support brackets and the radiator splash shield.

Messed with the exhaust a little, and got some progress on it, but the hanger at the back of the drivers door cannot be used, since it's obscured by the subframe connector on that side, so I'll have to have some work done on it to get things pointed the right direction. The exhaust system ends right there in front of the back wheel, but I think I can make it work to have the entire tail pipe.

Took it for a bit of a longer drive tonight, and it really rips. Brakes are terrific, and the noise isn't as bad now with the little extra exhaust pipe in there. Really punishing ride, so it's a good thing this is a 90% track-only build. I couldn't take this in a daily driver.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mmc757

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Confirmed with Terry that the spring rates on the D2 coilovers are 615 front, 503 rear. The setup on my Roush was 650 front (Eibach) and approx. 245 rear (standard KSport springs) - and it was still a little too tail-happy at times. So I'm going to have to pay close attention to the rear end setup to make sure this isn't a spinout machine. Adjustable toe arms should make this possible. Chances are I'll be running with no rear sway bar at all. In any case, the new and different balance will be ... interesting.

Received these little beauties today, to adapt the rear brake hoses to the proportioning fitting:

81605


5mm wheel spacers are on national back order from H&R, so they estimate June 1 before those ship. That's AFTER the May 30 event, so I'm a little nervous about that. I'll have to do some more shakedown to see how comfortable I am with driving like that.

LIST FOR NEXT GARAGE DAY:
Drill hole for CAI install
Install OMP front strut tower brace
Install missing backing plates on ST200 brace
Trim strut tower tops in rear for ease of adjustment
Install rear braided brake lines
Modify and finalize exhaust mounting
Install sun visors and overhead console
Install carbon fiber hood

That SHOULD make it track-ready, provided the front wheel clearance is sufficient to the strut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
I ask to understand

How you can says 650 615 503 (lbs i imagine)?

At which compression height you got these measurements?

For example: in my rear D2 coilovers actually i got customs coils that needs 661lbs of force to get compressed of 70mm.
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
I ask to understand

How you can says 650 615 503 (lbs i imagine)?

At which compression hight you got these measurements?

For example: in my rear D2 coilovers actually i got customs coils that needs 661lbs of force to get compressed of 70mm.
Yes, these are lb/in values. Those numbers are the manufacturer's specs. Here's a handy conversion table:

kg/mmlb/inN/m
3.519634
527949
739169
950388
11615108
13726128
15838147
181006177
221229216

So in kg/mm, I'm going from an 11.6/4.4 balance to an 11/9, so I'm losing a little front roll stiffness and gaining A LOT of rear.

The Roush rear sway bar was certainly adding to my rear roll stiffness before. I'm not scientific enough to know if it will still be a factor with double the spring rate, or if it will just sit there because it doesn't have as much work to do. I'll find out soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
I'm super late to seeing this thread (work is insane right now), this is great stuff, giving me a lot of ideas :)
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Decent progress day yesterday.

One hangup/disappointment: couldn’t get the rear rubber brake lines loose. The flare nut was a little rounded - but now it’s a lot rounded. So I quit on that for now, since time was a factor.

A couple of the brackets for the ST200 brace had been removed, so I reinstalled all of those.

Cut off the tops of the rear shock towers and dropped the struts down so I could get the adjusters in there. So now apart from the brake lines, the rear end is all done.

Installed the camber adjusters on the front struts, and set the preload on the front sway bar. So until the wheel spacers arrive, the front end is all done. Still haven’t installed the OMP front strut tower brace, but that’s not mission-critical.

Drilled hole for cold-air intake installation, and mounted remote air filter under the bumper.

Removed stock hood and installed carbon fiber hood. Had to drop the radiator a little to get the hood pins installed, but that’s not a bad job.

Installed overhead light console and sun visors, and the last remaining missing interior panel next to the throttle pedal.

Found another plug under the dashboard that was misrouted, had to pull some panels to fix that. Installed an additional 12v outlet in the center console so I’ve got a good spot to charge the camera/phone for events.

Drove it to the gas station to fill the tank. Car seems really planted and responsive.

I have an appointment at an exhaust shop this Tuesday for the final adjustment on that.

SO CLOSE.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rallyusa

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Been trying to compile a complete up-to-date mod list, so if anyone's curious, here's where I have things now; will update as things progress (items in red are still to be installed as of now):

Engine:
2005 Taurus 3.0 short block
2002 Cougar 2.5 heads
2005 Taurus cams
SVT Contour valve covers
AC delete
EGR delete
John Smith Racing EGR block-off plate
K&N air filter
AEM intake
GMK cold-air extension
Hose Techniques silicone intake couplers
70mm PRT-bilt throttle body
Max-extrude-honed SVT upper intake manifold
Gutted optimized SVT lower intake manifold
IMRC delete
Bosch 24# fuel injectors
MN Autosport power steering pulley
MN Autosport alternator pulley
Dual-mass crank damper
Samco silicone coolant hoses
SVT radiator
SVT oil cooler
MSDS headers
Weapon-R stainless Y-pipe
SPMotorsports MIL eliminators
Trubendz high-flow cat
Borla ProXS muffler
Trubendz single 2.5" exhaust

Transaxle:
Energy Suspension poly front trans mount insert
Urethane-filled rear trans mount
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
SVT clutch
Torsen differential
Focus shift tower
Royal Purple SynchroMax gear oil

Suspension:
PRT billet aluminum front subframe isolators
OMP front strut tower brace
ST200 rear chassis brace
Welded subframe connectors
SVT steering rack
SPC front camber adjustment plates
D2 coilovers, 11k front, 9k rear
SVT front sway bar
Massive Speed System adjustable front end links
Reinforced rear subframe
Roush rear sway bar
Whiteline billet rear sway bar lateral locks
TZT rear end links
Energy Suspension urethane sway bar bushings
Energy Suspension trailing arm bushings
Massive Speed System adjustable rear toe arms

Brakes:
Goodridge stainless brake hoses
Warmonger caliper adapters
300mm SVT Focus front rotors
278mm rear rotors
Hawk HPS brake pads

Wheel & Tire:
Rota Titan 17x8, matte black
Gorilla hub centric rings
Bridgestone RE-71R 245/40R-17
H&R 5mm front spacers with extended lugs
Dorman extended open-end lug nuts

Interior:
Jegs RS-1 seats
Rear seat delete
4-point harnesses
Stangkiller harness bar
01-02 interior panels & console
01-02 steering wheel
Jaguar flip key
Lotek A-pillar pod
Autometer oil pressure & voltage gauges

Roush pedals
Tuning-Shop UK leather shift & brake boots
2011 Focus shift knob

Exterior:
Rear wiper delete
CHMSL delete
Antenna delete
Aerogear Predator carbon fiber hood
Ford Europe headlights
Ford Europe front grille

Misc:
PLX Kiwi3 OBD adapter
SVT Contour XGT1 ECU
Tuned by DynoTune Motorsports
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Well 2 steps forward, 2 steps back.

Early this morning I was working on my CF hood with the orbital, buffing out some haze. Went great, looked awesome. Then I put the stuff away and drove over to the muffler shop to have the exhaust finished up.

A few hours later I got the call that the car was done, so I got a ride over to the shop to pick it up.

Looks great, sounds great. Headed back to the house (about 2 miles away). Was about 1000 feet from turning into the neighborhood and WHAM.

I had forgotten to put the hood pins back in, and the hood flew up and smashed the windshield. No idea how I made it to the shop this morning without that happening, but I'm glad I did, because at least the exhaust is finished.

Surveying the damage - the hinges are bent a little, but not that bad. Can probably fix those with pliers, or just pull the ones off the green car. The windshield is toast, obviously. There are some hairline cracks in the CF gel coat, and some cracks in the underside fiberglass supports. But the hood is still structurally A HOOD, and I think I can still use it, it's just a 20-footer now. Not that it was perfect before anyway, so that's neither here nor there. Fortunately the carbon fiber hood was light enough that it didn't damage the roof at all (some tiny, tiny dents on each side from the screws in the hood pin plates - very minor, and I'll fill those before I vinyl-wrap the roof, which I was planning to do anyway).

So Safelite is coming out on Thursday to replace the glass. Which means that I SHOULD still be able to race it on Sunday. Just about $300 lighter in the wallet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,025 Posts
:cry:
Are they pulling the glass from the green car too?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
hi Bennet,
sometimes put some pictures please not only "lists to do" eheh :p
will like to see the st200 brace too, to understand what does mean

how are the sensation about the different configuration with d2 coilovers ?
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
:cry:
Are they pulling the glass from the green car too?
No I don’t want the glass from the green car. It has 212,000 miles on it and is pretty severely pitted, so new glass is great with me.

And sorry, yeah - you’re right about the photos. I never stop long enough to take any, lol.

Here’s a good shot of the ST200 brace and the Stangkiller harness bar.



Here’s the modified strut tower with the D2 adjuster visible:



More to come. I have some down time until Thursday.
 
  • Love
Reactions: Ricardo70

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Oh and as for the D2 coils - I’ve not really had a chance to push it hard yet, so I might not find out for sure until I’m on the course.

I’ll start out with the dampers set to zero, and low rear tire pressure. If it still gets too tail-happy, I can dial in a little toe-in and help out that way. Lots of trial and error.
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #78 ·
That’s how they were on the green car, too.
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #79 ·
OKAY - THE CAR IS HOME. I drove it (illegally - it still isn't registered with the BMV) 100 miles to my house last night at 10pm, so this was the first time I've driven it for more than about 5 minutes at a time.

Safelite auto glass was supposed to arrive between noon and 5 yesterday, but they didn't show up until nearly 7pm. But it got done, and it looks spectacular. You really don't realize how bad your glass is until you get new glass; it was EASILY worth the $300 I had to shell out for it.

Before:

81692


(AFTER photos coming)

As you can see, the roof is not damaged. If it were a steel hood, the roof would have been totally caved in. As it happened, the front edge of the CF hood basically turned itself inside out a little and wrapped around the edge. It hit hard enough to knock the dome light out, but there's no other damage on the steel apart from the aforementioned tiny dings from the hood pin plates. Barely noticeable unless you're looking for them.

I finally installed the OMP front strut tower brace and did another few nickel-and-dimey things that were still bugging me; the car is 99% complete. Still a few squeaks and rattles, especially in the back half, that I think I can address. Stuck some temporary pins in the hood for the trip; brand new ones arriving today from Amazon, with retaining cables so I don't lose them again.

Driving impressions: the car has ZERO CHILL. It is a coiled spring 24/7, and there is nothing sedate about it. Fortunately the exhaust is nice and quiet at highway cruise conditions over 2500 RPMs, so apart from the brutal suspension, it's not bad on the highway. And if the road is smooth, it's very livable. Bumps are HARSH though.

A few times during the trip, I would hit a bump and everything would completely cut out for a second and the PATS light would come on for a moment. I think I might have a loose battery terminal, so I'm going to hunt that down later today if it stops raining. Right after getting it running last month, I disconnected the battery when parked since I wasn't confident in the electrical system yet, so I'm guessing that I just sat the neg terminal on there to move the car once and then just forgot about it. Hopefully that's the issue.

I'll take the full complement of photos today if weather permits, But we're looking at 68% precip today and 56% tomorrow, so no promises. Sunday looks pretty good for race day though.

STILL PENDING:
Rear stainless brake hoses
Front wheel spacers
New hood pins
 

·
Administrator
1999 3.0 SilFro
Joined
·
24,779 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 ·
New hood pins - with tethers - installed.

Finally got the Jaguar key fob remote to program, which was a huge relief.

Next autocross event is June 13th. Planning to lower the rear ride height a little before then and see how it reacts. Taking a jack with me in case I need to crank it back up.
 
61 - 80 of 96 Posts
Top