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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
81463


2020 was the end of the road for the green 2000 Roush. 2021 will be in a fresh silver 1999.

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70,000 original miles, garage-kept, rust-free. No sunroof, no spoiler, no rear wiper. The car already has a 4-bolt front subframe, stripped-out interior, welded-in subframe connectors, an ST200 rear brace, and D2 coilovers, so there's a bunch of things I won't need to address. It was a project car that never came to completion. All it needs is a 3.0, and I just so happen to have one. But there's a problem.

This car is an early 99, with a return-style fuel system. The wiring is also highly modified, so nothing is quite what it seems. So the only safe and reliable solution is to remove all of the early 99-specific parts, and replace them with my known working 2000 parts.

Details to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Removing the old wiring from the 99 is simple, as all the seats, carpet and dashboard has been removed already. So the body harness and engine bay harnesses are pulled entirely.

Then I start the long process of pulling all the body harnesses from the green 2000:

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Pretty monumental job; lots to keep track of. Lots of photos taken to remember what goes where. The body harness is immense, and probably weighs 25 pounds in its entirety. The engine bay harness isn't as big, but it's impossible to remove without pulling the powertrain and radiator. Here's the last image of the 3.0 in the Roush.

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Wiring harnesses removed, I moved on to the fuel system.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 99 had the EVAP system deleted, which I couldn't do without a re-tune, so I had to re-install all of those associated components. Charcoal canister, purge valve, purge solenoid, and all vent tubes. That means the fuel tank has to be swapped over, too; returnless fuel tank, top, and return fuel tank, bottom. Returnless has 2 vents on the rear edge to the return's one vent, and the return has an electronic sensor of some sort on the front edge, where the return tank has it blocked off. Not to mention the entirely different fuel pumps - one line on the returnless, two on the return, and the completely different plug shape for the pump/sender.

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Additionally, there is a difference in the filler neck of the 99 vs the 2000. The 2000 has a pencil-thin vent tube on the filler, while the 99 has a much larger tube that's too big to fit on the vent bung of the 2000 fuel tank.

And since the powertrain was out, it was simple enough to pull the 2 return fuel lines off the bottom of the car, and swap over the single returnless fuel line. Probably would not be possible with the powertrain in place. This also allowed me to run the large EVAP line from the fuel tank to the engine bay, too.

Lastly, the returnless fuel pump driver module had to be swapped over into the 99. The tooling is different in that spot on the body, so I had to drill a couple of holes to mount it, but there was plenty of metal there, so no problem.

The fuel tank straps were beautiful and rust-free, so the swap was not hampered by any of those issues. Fuel system swap: complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I always said the 2000 was rusty, but nobody really believed - or understood - what I was talking about. It hid the problem well.

Here's a few photos of the underside of the 2000 showing the holes in the floor/rockers/unibody.

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This was the worst part of everything - the rear cradle bolts in about 2 inches from the edge of this monster hole.

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So as you can see, this was all not ideal, so I'm glad to be on a clean new platform to actually do it right from the outset.
 

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That answers some of those questions about the fuel system swap...

Your rust is definitely a little worse than mine although I'm not that far behind. My floor pan is still intact but the rest is pretty similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Took the big brakes, adjustable rear toe arms, and urethane bushings from the 2000 and swapped them over onto the clean, rust-free rear subframe from the 99. It was still sitting on stock brakes and arms, with the OEM rubber bushings.

Welded in reinforcement plates on the clean rear subframe for the Roush rear sway bar. Have not swapped that over yet, but did a test fit, so it's ready.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pulled the powertrain out of the 2000 and dropped out the 2-bolt subframe.

Dropped the 4-bolt subframe out of the 99 and began to attach it to the powertrain.

The 4-bolt cradle is from a 95-96 rod-shift Contour. As such, the 2000 front trans mount was not compatible.

The early subframes had threaded holes in the cradle, and the mounts had holes for bolts to attach them to it. The later ones (Ford updated in late 97-early 98) used mounts with studs pressed into them, and simple holes in the cradle with nylock nuts installed from the bottom.

I was able to press the studs out of the 2000 mount, but the holes don't line up. So I put one bolt in for now, and will have to slot the holes on the mount to get both bolts in.

The powertrain assembly is now installed in the 99 though. Still need to install the coolant hoses and fill with coolant, and still need to bolt up a couple of grounds, before I can turn it over. Not to mention the trans mount issue.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
245 RE-71R's mounted up on the new Rota Titans yesterday (my bathroom scale said 17.2 pounds per corner, and they look amazing). New hub-centric rings and black open-ended lug nuts are in the house. The good guys at Discount Tire used black wheel weights when balancing them, for maximum stealth. New Goodridge braided brake lines on order, but they are delayed, so the expected ship date is May 2. Cutting it close. To-Do list is getting shorter.

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Still to do before it's race-ready:
Install dashboard
Install interior door panels and center console
Swap over carbon fiber hood/pins
Fresh oil change
Fresh coolant fill
Install Roush rear sway bar
Swap over 300mm front brakes
Install camber plates on front struts
Bleed clutch
Modify front roll resistor to fit 95-96 subframe
Modify exhaust to clear subframe connectors
Install all remaining backing plates for ST200 brace
Bolt up seats and harnesses
Check fitment on new wheels, add spacers if necessary
Check alignment

Things that need to happen soon:
Install A-pillar pod with gauges
Install Goodridge brake lines & flush system with fresh fluid
Sort out lock cylinders (currently needs 3 different keys)
Install OMP front strut tower brace
Install power trunk latch actuator
Install front washer fluid line
Drill hole for cold-air intake
Drill out rear shock towers for easy access to damper adjustment

Future plans:
Fabricate blanking plate for stereo delete
Vinyl black-out roof
Switch over to Braille battery setup
Replace SVT oil cooler with air-to-oil arrangement
V-band quick release to switch between street/race exhaust

Haven't even officially fired the engine yet in its new home, but that should be simple. Still working through title/registration issues, so I might not even have license plates for it by the first event, but it's CLOSE. If there's no resolution on that by the 9th, I'll most likely take out the Focus ST for event 1. Second event is May 30.
 
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Install A-pillar pod with gauges
...
Fabricate blanking plate for stereo delete
...
To me, no stereo = extra space for more gauges.
 

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you could always just pull the face plate off of the front of the radio and slide it in where it should be. Unless you plan on using the plate for other things.

mmc757, Ive had important gauges down there, they are hard to see at a glance. I still only have my volt gauge down there, everything else is in eye line
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A note on wheel weight:

As mentioned, the new Rota Titan wheels weigh 17.2 pounds each in 17x8. For context, the Saleen reps I was using last season were 23.8 pounds each. That's a savings of 6.6 pounds per corner, or 26.4 pounds of unsprung weight.

For unsprung weight, the ratio is ~ 1:6 compared to sprung weight, so 26.4 lbs lost in the wheels is the performance equivalent of nearly 160 lbs of weight lost in the chassis.

81478
 

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mmc757, Ive had important gauges down there, they are hard to see at a glance. I still only have my volt gauge down there, everything else is in eye line
Yeah, I could see that. I wouldn't put anything down there that I need while my eyes are on the road, but its a nice place for informational items that verify the car is running right or help troubleshoot when it isn't.
I've also thought before that if there's no stereo, a person could move the HVAC to that location, then put some gauges up higher in the current HVAC spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Side note: just finished cutting some dark green class ID for the new car:

81479
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oh, and some notes on the heater box:

The 99 came to me with the HVAC system removed. Having run a few summer events in the rain before, I knew that I would need a working defroster if I wanted to see where I was going. So I would have to swap the entire HVAC system from my 2000 over onto the 99.

Removing the box isn't too hard once the dashboard and the large crash bar underneath is removed. There are 5 nuts holding the box to the crash bar - 4 in the middle, and one over on the blower motor housing. Then there is one stud on the box that goes through the firewall, with a large plastic nut outside holding the box to the firewall. It's just below the spot where the air conditioner lines come into the cabin.

Everything is all self-contained; the vacuum lines stay with the heater box, and all of the ducting is in the dash cover. It is a 2-man job, as someone needs to position the box while someone else installs the fastener out in the engine bay. Again, having the powertrain removed is a help, but not essential.

In the process, I also removed the AC evaporator from inside the heater box, as I'd long since deleted the compressor/condenser/drier and all that entails. So this was an opportune time to pull that one last piece of the puzzle and save a few more pounds. I filled the holes left in the firewall with silicon RTV to seal the box back up and keep the heat in.
 
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I've also thought before that if there's no stereo, a person could move the HVAC to that location, then put some gauges up higher in the current HVAC spot.
Thats exactly what i did. I still need to print up some proper labels for the controls other than silver sharpie
 

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How do you just find something like that..... I would kill for the ST200 Strut Brace... aswell as A-Pillar Trim for Gauges
 

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So you now have two ST200 braces? With all the backing plates?
Nice write up, and great find on that silver '99 ! Assuming you're not using the body kit, since you don't need to hide rust, and saving weight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How do you just find something like that..... I would kill for the ST200 Strut Brace... aswell as A-Pillar Trim for Gauges
Haha, well - it's nice to have connections. This community has been invaluable for keeping this car on the road for so long, and for making it competitive. Making friends, going to meet-ups, and making sure everyone knows I'm on the lookout - really pays off. Also doesn't hurt that I've been collecting parts since about 2003, LOL.

So you now have two ST200 braces? With all the backing plates?
Nice write up, and great find on that silver '99 ! Assuming you're not using the body kit, since you don't need to hide rust, and saving weight?
There are some missing backing plates on the silver car, but I THINK they are tucked away in the parts horde somewhere. This car came with the most obscene amount of spares and extras and pieces and parts; boxes and boxes of stuff. I don't know what I'll ever do with all of it. Look for a huge sale to come once I get all the bugs worked out of it. And yeah, the lip kit will not be installed on the track car; I have wanted to take it off for a LONG TIME. Haven't decided what I'm doing with it yet, but part of me wants to tuck it away in the basement for when I eventually get my Porsche or Lotus or whatever, and I can turn the Cougar into a sweet cruiser.
 
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