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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I am going to attempt to install my audio equipment myself (with a little help from a friend that has done a little audio stuff - mostly small time). I spent all my money on audio and have no money left for the install, plus I want that satisfied feeling of installing it myself. Here is what I bought:

- Fosgate head unit (MP3)
- (1) 12" Fosgate Punch HX2
- Q-Logic Sealed hatch enclosure
- Fosgate 451S (450w) amp

I'm going to use the stock cabin speakers powered by the head unit for now (Infinity speakers with amp later)... Are there any "basic" audio how to's out there that will help me? I'm looking for like wiring diagrams (pictures and stuff). Also, any tips or things to watch out for that are specific to cougars? Wish me luck...!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yup 2 channel amp... 450w RMS x 1 in bridged mode... Sub is rated at 500w RMS.
 

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hmmm...did you also buy a wiring kit? The diagrams and pictures should be in the manuals for the stuff...mine was anyway. Nothing really specific to the cougar, just basic 12V and ground wiring. For grounding the amp there's a lot of bolts in the trunk under the carpeting you could use...you could even drill your own hole on the inside rear quarter panel like I did to bolt down a wire. The wires run beautifully right through the firewall, under the molding by the door, and under the back seat into the trunk. PM me if you have any questions during the install, I installed all my stuff too.

Mike
 

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It's a good idea to run your power wire on the opposite side of where you run your RCA cables. Doing this will avoid interference. Also in my case I found that using the tail light bolts as ground was easy and effective. Make sure there's contact to bare metal and that there's a ~12V drop between your power and your grounding point.

Oh, and it's important to properly fuse your main power line in the engine bay (as close to the battery as possible). DON'T install this main fuse until you are done with all your connections. Run your wires under the carpet, door trim, and backseat for a completely stealth install.

It's quite an experience. Take your time and make sure everything's hooked up right. Goodluck :beer:
 

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i have a quesiton on a similar note, so i wont start a new topic. i have a fuse between the battery and my capacitor, but do i also need another fuse between the capacitor and the amp? or should i move the fuse in the front, to inbetween the cap and the amp?
 
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It's not a bad idea to put a fuse between the cap and the amp, but I wouldn't say you really need it. The only reason you would want one between the cap and amp is so that if there's a short in that part of the wire, it won't fry your amp.
 

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i thought the fuse was just to protect the car's electrical system and the amp had its own protection built in..?
 

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your wire from the cap to you amp should't be more then a foot long and if there is a short in this part of the wire then you have one wacky install going on...the fuse by your battery should be no furhter then a foot away either....i hope you bought heavily sheilded RCA's and if your remote wire is separate from these then run it down the power side of your car...always try yo keep signal wires as far away from your power wires as possible...also i hope you bought the dual 2 ohm version of your HX2 other wise the bridged set up you plan on wont work...(hmmm what is that funny rank plastic smell...oh that is just your amp melting from the insanly heavy load on it...) just my friendly tid bit of info but i dont think you amp will push that sub to its fullest potential either..you have basically the same set up as me going but i have the 500s amp, i blew my old sub but am in the middle of a purchase for a new HX2 Dual 2...if you wire you sub and it is dual 4's be very careful cause series wiring will give you a 8 ohm load wont be bad, but wont hit very hard either..however parallel wiring will give you a 2 ohm load...will hit like hell for about a minute before things start melting, very bad....i belive wiring one VC per channel will produce 4 ohm loads and you amp will be stable to 2 per channel....pretty much the same as series wiring...just less power...if yo have any other questions feel free to pm me i did my own fiberglass install too...nothing like the gratification of doing it yourself..good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The model number on my HX2 is a RFD2212. According to Fosgate's website it is a 4 ohm.... So I would wire the sub according to the pic below... Correct?

 

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nope...
that diagram is for 2 ohm load...
unless you want a 2 ohm load...
does your amp handle 2 ohm load in bridged configuration?
if it does, then go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by: Sharkie17
nope...
that diagram is for 2 ohm load...
unless you want a 2 ohm load...
does your amp handle 2 ohm load in bridged configuration?
if it does, then go for it.
No, I don't believe my amp will do a 2ohm load in bridged configuration... The specs say 450w RMS x 1 (450 WATTS RMS MONO INTO A 4 OHM LOAD )
So then it would be this one then???

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, the all Fosgate system is taking shape, which includes a Fosgate head unit (MP3), 451S amp (450w x 1), 12" HX2 sub (in a sealed Q-Logic box), and even Fosgate wiring. I actually installed everything myself, which is quite amazing! I've never installed any audio in my life, so when I hooked it all up and turned it on and it worked I was shocked...!!! Not really shocked like electrocuted, just shocked that I made it work the first time! Now all I got left to do is wire cleanup. I'll post pics tomorrow... Oh yeah, thanks to all for thier advice and help! It thumps quite loud!!! :biggrin:
 

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i hope you swaped out your sub for the 2 ohm version to make your set up work...should only cost a couple extra bucks if you havent used it yet...other wise if you have the four ohm sub and that same amp you cant wire it in parallel like you have shown in the first pic oe in series like the second...well actually the second wont hurt your amp but you will actully be putting an 8 ohm load on your amp rather then a 4...wont be as lound or clear and clean as it should be...your only configurations with that sub and amp are in bridged mono in series or just straight up left side right side... and yes remember to break it in for a month before your really start to hammer down on the bass...be sure you have the gains on your amp set right there is a test thread set up in here now...to adjust them correctly and evenly since you have to move two of them...(i believe)i cant wait to see the pics...
 

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Originally posted by: crazyoldcougar
i hope you swaped out your sub for the 2 ohm version to make your set up work...should only cost a couple extra bucks if you havent used it yet...other wise if you have the four ohm sub and that same amp you cant wire it in parallel like you have shown in the first pic oe in series like the second...well actually the second wont hurt your amp but you will actully be putting an 8 ohm load on your amp rather then a 4...wont be as lound or clear and clean as it should be...your only configurations with that sub and amp are in bridged mono in series or just straight up left side right side... and yes remember to break it in for a month before your really start to hammer down on the bass...be sure you have the gains on your amp set right there is a test thread set up in here now...to adjust them correctly and evenly since you have to move two of them...(i believe)i cant wait to see the pics...
Yeh....that second diagram was a DVC 2 ohm sub....which do you have DVC 4 or 2 Ohm?
 
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