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install an Apexi is easy.. 3 hours max

here is how to do it

just take your time and don't use solder that is too thick

drill a hole on the drivers side of the PCM from the inside to feed the wires through

pull the PCM connector out from behind the reservoir to access it

double check wires before cutting into them
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Originally posted by: mcon99
install an Apexi is easy.. 3 hours max

here is how to do it

just take your time and don't use solder that is too thick

drill a hole on the drivers side of the PCM from the inside to feed the wires through

pull the PCM connector out from behind the reservoir to access it

double check wires before cutting into them
I know the PCM/ECU is on the passenger's side, so I'm assuming you mean to drill the hole to the left of it. At the same time, do you think it would work for a very short time if I use wire taps? I'm not a huge proponent of them, but because this unit won't be in my car that long, as long as I secure them, I should be fine... right?

I'm aware that I need to cut the one line for the A/F function to actually work...
 

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why would you not be keeping your apexi?? :confused:

my personal preferance is definitly against wire taps... I've heard of bad things happening with them, instances where they lost connection, and when that happens when your spraying N20 things go ... boom. I wouldn't want the wires to my apexi getting loose either because (a) your car might randomly die if a wire becomes completely disconnected or (b) a wire could come loose, cause the unit to malfunction where in theory I guess it could ruin your engine if it cause the car to start to run either super rich or super lean, because the MAF signal started to fluctuate. I've seen enough loose wires in my time to know that happens...and a MAF signal is much more sensitive than say a 460V 3-phase power duct.

moral of the story: soldering is 100%
 

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i was looking on ebay at this? there around 200 is that a good price ?
 

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Originally posted by: 01blkcat
Originally posted by: slownfurious
i was looking on ebay at this? there around 200 is that a good price ?
Be careful... most of those are the 1st generation ones... the one I am speaking about should be around 230-260.
Just for more reference mine was $310
 

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Be careful... most of those are the 1st generation ones... the one I am speaking about should be around 230-260.
yeah i know which ones are the 1st gens and 2nd gen S-AFC...will the 1st gen not work or something ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by: slownfurious
Be careful... most of those are the 1st generation ones... the one I am speaking about should be around 230-260.
yeah i know which ones are the 1st gens and 2nd gen S-AFC...will the 1st gen not work or something ???
Nah... they will work, but the second generation revision A and B units are so much better.... the options and safety features are well worth the extra money. The revision B (the one without the buttons, just the rotary knob) is brand new, direct from japan. I'm trying to find out a) if the wiring is the same, and b) if it is compatible with our Cougars.

Anyone?
 

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soo what S-AFC do people have installed ? the 1st or 2nd gen ?
 

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yes the 2nd gen revision B Apexi will work with the Cougars. Why wouldn't it? If you looked at the technical specifics about it you'de understand why this is.
The Rev B one is nicer but not enough to warrant replacing an A unit if you have one already.


Here is the best picture I have in the middle of my Apexi install: click here

You can cleary see where the apexi wiring harness comes through the firewall as well as how I spaced out the brown and black ground wires as required.

Now stop talking about this and go install the damn thing!!!!!
 

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Originally posted by: 01blkcat
The second generation (revision B) harness is MUCH different. I've got more cables and different colors.... can someone point me in the right direction for this installation?
post a list of each wire with number, color code, and use, and I can match it up. I have to imagine that since the unit is virtually identical except the addition of a knock sensor that 80% of the wires will be the same. Finding the knock sensor wire on the PCM harness won't be hard, thats what wiring diagrams are for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ummm... that's the problem. I don't have any English documentation yet for this unit... so I can't read Japanese. :-(

I have all of the original colors, along with a new gray one, a pink one, and another green one. I'll see if I can get an English edition of the manual, and get back to you.
 

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PCM pin number is #57 for the knock sensor. The wire should be color coded White/Black.
 
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