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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I read through the forum descriptions twice and there's really no place specifically for this so I put it here :tongue: now be nice! Just cuz it's a nonstandard mod doesn't mean you should be a dick about it. The first person who wanted to put in a device in a car that blows compressed air into the cyllinders probably caught some hatin too lol. And NOS in the engine, come on, that's just a craaaaazy idea. That would neve work lol ;)

Okay anyway, you know all those hot parts on an engine that you want to be not hot? Well if I know one thing from working with computers since forever, if you want something to not get so hot, you throw a high surface area copper heatsinc on it. Now if I remember correctly, that silvery thingy on the top is a part that really, really needs to be cold because the air passes through there. And mine takes like a looooooong time to cool off after driving. So I'm playing around with the idea of attaching small, low profile, high surface area copper heatsincs to it. If you dunno what I'm talking about, here's several popular styles:






Yeah, it does look like a little, shiny radiator lol. I know there's not a ton of airflow through the engine compartment to cool them but it should still make a significant difference over flat, lower conduction metal that it's made out of now. I've seen metal air intake systems that have sinc fins like that so don't call me crazy just yet. And one place where I can't imagine these wouldn't help would be all around my exhaust pipes. They're exposed to the open air so if I found a way to safely seal copper heatsincs to them, it would stay like 10x cooler than with that wrap stuff that's so popular. I don't think cooling the exhaust piping does much for performance though :tongue:

So now the questions:
what do you think of the general idea?
what other parts get hot that should be kept cooler?
Is the umm...silver thingy whose name I forgot on top the engine safe to drill into? (I'm thinking no)
 

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The "thingy" on the top of the block is called an Upper Intake Manifold and is under vacuum pressure. Drilling into it and not providing a seal around it will produce a vacuum leak and produce more problems than help anything.

As for the idea, it won't work. Those heat sinks you are talking about are rated to a lower heat operation level than what that "thingy" will get to, which is over 200 degrees. Those heat sinks are no rated to be attached to devices that get over much more than 70 degrees Celsius, which is about 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you want that particular piece to get cooler, which it doesn't need to because the only reason why it is hot in the first place is due to the internal engine compartments heat build up, and you are touching the outer of a rather large metal part. You need to provide more air flow over the top of the intake manifold.
 

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I understand your idea, but I don't believe that would do much of anything for cooling. You'd be better off messing around with routing pipes to various areas and testing before and after temp, or messing around with scoops and vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
don't you hate it when you google image search an incorrectly spelled word and still get tons of results so you don't think twice about it? It's heatsink lol.

So yeah processor ones can't get that hot without melting but graphics cards ones can. My graphics card heatsink wasn't damaged at all the several times it ran for long periods around 140C or 284F before I figured out the fan was broken and it was getting that hot. The shutoff temp to prevent damage to the chip was programmed in at 144C if I remember correctly and the heatsink itself can take a bit higher.
I've read that cooling your manifold before a drag race is a really good idea so how could cooling it all the time be bad for performance? It sounds like cooling that would cool the whole engine. I could probably attach thick, graphics card quality heatsinks to just about anywhere without drilling by bordering it with gorilla glue (that stuff's invincible!) and filling the center area with Arctic Silver, a compound that has some crazy high conductance rating cuz it's made from 3 different synthetically engineered forms of ultra high purity silver compounds. But I just checked the price on really good heatsinks and :eek: they're EXPENSIVE! over 10x what I had paid for basic, old model ones in the past. Then again I could get some less effective old style ones that are made of things other than copper that have a melting temperature of like 1000F+. So what are your thoughts about putting a high temp rating one elsewhere? What's a good spot?
I have a pentium 3 one in my basement that I could get like 30 of for practically free. I'm not sure what this metal is...probably like nickel or something but it looks hard to damage with heat :biggrin:

btw all pictures thus far are fanless. With a tiny bit of extra wiring, they can all have cooling fans. Like 95% of computer ones do these days. For example, my graphics card's old one:

and this crime against heat for processors (ignore the plastic part though, most are smart enough to not have one of those)


but that means more alternator draw which would eat up any performance benefits I'd get
I just thought of this though! The metal piping that goes to my radiator gets REALLY, REALLY, REALLY hot. I've burnt myself on it before 15 mins after shutting the engine off. It'd be easy as pie to put some heat spreaders on them and that technically would provide a little internal engine cooling cuz it would supplement the radiator and its coolant's cooling. I might just try that tomorrow with some tiny passive heat spreaders from the chipsets on broken motherboards I have.
 

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its an intersting thought you have there. maybe no so practical though. make a functional hood scoop or something to get more airflow around the engine.

also, the amps that a computer fan would pull from the alternator is no where near enough to be considered taking anything at all
 

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In the end i dont think youll cool anything down enough to make a difference. And copper is not a light metal. Youll just add more weight which will slow the car down more than any minimal gains youll get in performance, if you get any at all.
 

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If you want better airflow into the engine bay, I've got a hood I will sell you. Cosmetically it sucks, but its 1000000x better than when I got it, and only really needs a little more touch-up to make it perfectly smooth. For the record, I don't have factual numbers, but I did notice a significant difference in the "touch" temperature of the UIM and the CAI with this hood. Really helped alot, just too bad it looks so bad.



I'm not "flaming" by asking this, but what is your fascination with solving everything by "electrical" means? The electric supercharger, the speakers, and the heatsink thing. I mean I can understand if you really know your computer technology, but that doesn't necessarily mean that converting that into an automotive application is really the best way of doing it.
 

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If you want better airflow into the engine bay, I've got a hood I will sell you. Cosmetically it sucks, but its 1000000x better than when I got it, and only really needs a little more touch-up to make it perfectly smooth. For the record, I don't have factual numbers, but I did notice a significant difference in the "touch" temperature of the UIM and the CAI with this hood. Really helped alot, just too bad it looks so bad.

I WANT YOUR HOODDDD! :drool:
 

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I'm not "flaming" by asking this, but what is your fascination with solving everything by "electrical" means? The electric supercharger, the speakers, and the heatsink thing. I mean I can understand if you really know your computer technology, but that doesn't necessarily mean that converting that into an automotive application is really the best way of doing it.
VERY well-put, Bob.

You're obviously really good with computers; that knowledge surely didn't come overnight. I think if you put that same kind of dedication into actually learning about how engines work, and not trying to shove a round peg into a square hole, you would be miles ahead.
 

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Topic no one is getting into. THe engine is designed to run at a certain temp. Engines use the best cooling method in watercooled. Thats why serios computer modders goto it. THe engines thermostat opens at a certain temp. because you want the engine to be a certain temp for gas atomization and proper vaporization. You can lower an engine temp by putting a diff. thermostat but in the end it makes the car run rougher. Harder for gas to atomize in cold.

Yea you could try to make the intake colder but in the end not much will be gained by it. Most people who want their intake colder go for a CAI and wrap heat wrap around it.

You are thinking of ideas but you need a little more knowledge on how an engine runs and why it runs like this. Internal combustion engines have been around for more than a 100 years. Whatever you think of probaly has already been thought of and if it worked it would be done.
 

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desolator.

its not a crazy idea. its been used on cars for many years now. It has a name too, its called a radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
lol I know it seems counterproductive to cool the pipes that are carrying hot coolant to a gigantic radiator but hey, why not lol. Btw there is some air flow in the comparment with the way that the grill is set up. Even on my old Tracer when it was -30F outside, you could drive and your engine would actually not get hot. You could turn on the heat vents and it would be luke warm. BUT it only did that on the highway. So yeah, all cars have some general air flow into the engine compartment. So if all the heat was transferred to air and it was just sitting there around the heatsink waiting to be blown away, I think it would make a small difference. But if there's no parts that would benefit greatly from a significant cooling then what's the point lol. I've hear spending $800 for a super high end radiator can actually improve horsepower by 10+ under some conditions but I don't think I could make mine that much better by adding like 2% heat spreading capabilities with a dozen heatsinks on the piping, especially since the radiator is recieving direct, moving air from outside and has like 100x the surface area as whatever I could fit inside.

And I'm so into electronics and computer solutions because electronics and computer do everything lol. Plus I have extensive electrical and obviously computer training and none for auto-tech (I was gonna take electives in auto tech in college but I had to burn all my elective credits up with classes from my other degree field to save money and time) Plus, most of the best inventions for cars involve adding computers and electronics :biggrin: you know like navigation and those superchips and level sensing and onstar and hybrid synergy drives. I'm totally gonna invent something wild that will be pretty sweet. Since engines have been around forever, only the really crazy ideas that nobody's dared to try before are gonna have a result because everything logical has already been tried
 

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I WANT YOUR HOODDDD! :drool:
OK, just so you're aware, this is an OEM hood with the Kaminari scoop molded on. Nothing too special, really. A little more touch up work and it will cosmetically look identical to a Kaminari, but its not exactly light because it IS a stock hood with fiberglass and bondo on top of it.
 

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have you ever checked the amount of room inbetween the top of the motor and the hood. not a lot there. add to that the fact that the metal hood is goiong to hold heat in.

I have a "functional" scoop on my 3L. UIM still gets hot and its plastic so unless you wrap ac lines around it, the temps gonna stay the same
 

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And I'm so into electronics and computer solutions because electronics and computer do everything lol. Plus I have extensive electrical and obviously computer training and none for auto-tech (I was gonna take electives in auto tech in college but I had to burn all my elective credits up with classes from my other degree field to save money and time) Plus, most of the best inventions for cars involve adding computers and electronics :biggrin: you know like navigation and those superchips and level sensing and onstar and hybrid synergy drives. I'm totally gonna invent something wild that will be pretty sweet. Since engines have been around forever, only the really crazy ideas that nobody's dared to try before are gonna have a result because everything logical has already been tried
None of the things you mention above help performace, which seems to be all your interested in when working with you car and trying to apply your "computer technology" to it.

If you want to apply some sort of computer technology to your car, go hook up with xhibit and put some tv's and xbox's in there. Otherwise, leave the performance to the mechanical aspect, which you aren't very aware of.

Just trying to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
kinda off topic but you know those hoods with the scoop facing not forward, like with the opening towards the windshield, WTF does that do? Does the air vortex in? lol. also, does the one pictured there have a grill for debris and wouldn't it be really, really bad if it snowed or rained with that hood on? Water on battery terminals (and like 9 other parts in the engine compartment) = bad!
 

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kinda off topic but you know those hoods with the scoop facing not forward, like with the opening towards the windshield, WTF does that do? Does the air vortex in? lol. also, does the one pictured there have a grill for debris and wouldn't it be really, really bad if it snowed or rained with that hood on? Water on battery terminals (and like 9 other parts in the engine compartment) = bad!
only 9? can u list them for me please?

oh, and i think u answered your own question on why the scoops r facing backwards

also, does the one pictured there have a grill for debris and wouldn't it be really, really bad if it snowed or rained with that hood on?
 
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