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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the alternator last summer in June, and I believe it has gone again. I went out to get groceries tonight, and the battery light began coming on at around 3k rpms, then it stayed on a bit, then blinked, etc. It eventually began to come on when I hit the gas, my gauges faded to about half, and my sterio no longer would turn on. By time I made it back to my building, the windows took 30 seconds to go up. I take the groceries in, and me and two friends go to the car, it starts up, and repeats the same light stuff, with almost totally faded gauges and headlights. I'm taking it straight to advance auto parts to get them to test the battery and alt, when my power is cut to 99% of everything, the gauges were gone, almost no power, pedal to the floor for hardly an movement, and the disgusting crunchy trans sound. I managed to park, and I'm 99% postitive its the alternator, sound right? And I don't understand why this is so soon, I picked this car up at 95k miles, and the alternator had never been replaced, at 103k I replace, and now I'm at 118k... I'm getting up bright and early to call shops and see what I can do, I just hope they can test it where it is, and not tow it just yet. Help anyone?
 

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Yep your alt is dead. It does sound awful when the power totally goes out but thats exactly how it goes.

They cant test the alt unless you get it started, or remove it and have it bench tested.

IF you take the battery out and charge it with a trickle charger you could probably start it and get it moved and drive it for a few minutes. (obviously try and use as little power as possible, no lights, no radio)
 

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Get the battery tested . Rule that out and if its not that than you have all weekend to get the alternator swaped lol
 

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Im going to say its not the battery. Its the alt... He didnt have a slow voltage/power drop. He had a fast drop. Batteries dont tend to just die, they slowly go to crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's what I thought, at first I thought it was the battery, but the deja vu from last summer is definetely alt... I'm am really pissed now... I don't have any of my tools, and I don't have unlimited time. I may just have to pay to get it put in, as expensive as it is. Stupid fall break starts Wednesday night, so I need the car together then... if only it would have died then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I got up bright and early, (actually it was dark and early), got the cat towed, and now she's sitting in a shop until Monday when the head guy comes back with some special tools... So, long story short, a lot of walking, a lot of cash, and I'll be back on the road Monday...
 

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I just finished a motor install on a SVT contour, and the alternator was NOT charging the battery at all! Battery light would come on and stay on right after starting it up...

We did a bunch of pin tests from the Ford CD to discover that the Voltage regulator wasn't working properly... but it says to replace the alternator...

So I removed it in about 30 minutes, took the voltage regulator out of it and could see a lot of corrosion build-up on the center shaft of the alternator!!
this was causing the brushes to not make any real solid contact with the center shaft, and would not charge the Battery!!!

I took the rear section of the alternator housing off, used some medium grit sandpaper, and gently removed all of the corrosion from the center shaft and touched up the 2 brushes a little for better contact... Reassembled the alternator, reinstalled it, and now it is working like new!!!

Parts America sells Alternator rebuild kits for about $37.00, and it seems like this is a good option for refreshing your alternator instead of buying brand new ones... :cool:
 

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Unless you baught an alt with a lifetime warranty like we suggest and new alts are free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just finished a motor install on a SVT contour, and the alternator was NOT charging the battery at all! Battery light would come on and stay on right after starting it up...

We did a bunch of pin tests from the Ford CD to discover that the Voltage regulator wasn't working properly... but it says to replace the alternator...

So I removed it in about 30 minutes, took the voltage regulator out of it and could see a lot of corrosion build-up on the center shaft of the alternator!!
this was causing the brushes to not make any real solid contact with the center shaft, and would not charge the Battery!!!

I took the rear section of the alternator housing off, used some medium grit sandpaper, and gently removed all of the corrosion from the center shaft and touched up the 2 brushes a little for better contact... Reassembled the alternator, reinstalled it, and now it is working like new!!!

Parts America sells Alternator rebuild kits for about $37.00, and it seems like this is a good option for refreshing your alternator instead of buying brand new ones... :cool:
I agree 100%, but I don't have any tools or any place to work.
 

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Sucks not having a place to fix your car...:(

But i figured i would post that since its most likely the reason why everyone's Alts have been failing... Seeing that the splash guard in the Passenger fender well doesn't protect the alt very well from water and the elements, our Alts can get quite a bit of corrosion built up inside them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
We should probably have an Alt sticky, that would probably be good for noobs. If this had come in just a few days, I'd be at home with a piss-load of tools... pretty much all I have the absolute basic tools, and they won't cut it...
 

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when my alt died on me i chaged the battery overnight and in the morning i put the battery in, drove to the autp parts store and drove home fine just running off the battery, so that is an option for you to try, just charge it all night but it back in in the morning and go get it tested at the auto parts store
 

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We should probably have an Alt sticky, that would probably be good for noobs. If this had come in just a few days, I'd be at home with a piss-load of tools... pretty much all I have the absolute basic tools, and they won't cut it...
We should but alot of people cant agree on the basics. Alot of hte people that used to spend alot of time here used to suggest the "Alt Fix" any time anyone ever had an alt problem. Problem with that is, the idea is a half assed hack job that only works some times, and that i personally detest. Every eletrical problem that came up you could expect 3 num nuts suggesting the alt fix and the big 3.
 
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We should but alot of people cant agree on the basics. Alot of hte people that used to spend alot of time here used to suggest the "Alt Fix" any time anyone ever had an alt problem. Problem with that is, the idea is a half assed hack job that only works some times, and that i personally detest. Every eletrical problem that came up you could expect 3 num nuts suggesting the alt fix and the big 3.
I concur:bowdown:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I got the car back... runs great now. I really hated to pay for a shop to do, but I need a car! I think we should definetely tell noobs to buy their alternators somewhere other than the shop- they wanted 312 for it at the shop, rebuilt with a warranty, vs. 168 at Advance Auto with their 1 year warranty. That's quite a savings for the same thing.
 

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I got fed up with mine... and i wanted some one else to look at it. Help me figure it out so i took it in just like you did. 1st the the mechanic said was "your main problem is the autozone alternators they suck." To which i replied, ive had more bad motorcraft alts than autozone alts, some motorcraft alts didnt last the day. That kinda shut him up and dumbfounded him.
 
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