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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello. I figured that a few weeks ago I did a 3L port-Matched install for COOGAH, and decided to document some of the work i did, and try and answer some of the questions that some of you Cougar nuts have been asking about... :)

This 3L build is basically what I always do, despite a few differences in parts that a customer prefers (i.e. escape oil pan, SVT cams, Headers, etc...)

This is a 04 Sable 3L with about 22K miles on it. It has been Port-Matched to fit 2.5L LIM/UIMs, using Bugzuki Plates (made by Bugzuki of CEG, name is Paul Wyndham)...

Also I am showing some of the tools I use, the grinding of the motor mount to fit between the heads, and the cutting of the 2 ears for the 99-00 Alternator brackets...

ALSO, please excuse the dirty engine parts. We were on a time constraint, and didn't care much to worry about the appearance details of the build...

Here are the pics (and I will try and do this step by step as best as i can):
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
More pics:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I do all of this in a few hours. The porting bit I use HELPS A LOT!!! It costs about $25 from EBAY, is about 6" in length which helps reach into the ports easily without hitting the drill on the heads... one bit lasted 10 motors :cool:

I start out by making sure the motor is sealed up so metal shavings won't end up inside the motor. the ports I use 2 blue Shop towels (one for each side of the port) in each port, and stuff them in there as far as I can, then use wheel bearing grease over the towels to catch the metal shavings... works really well. I turn the motor over on the engine stand after when removing the towels, and wipe down the ports of excess grease...

I bolt down the BugZuki plates next, then cut all of the injector valleys first using the carbide bit... Then I move on to port-matching each side of the ports... This can get very tiring and is hard on the hands. The drill is a high rpm Dewalt drill (about $50 from Home Depot) but is variable speed with how far you push in the trigger... being higher above the motor will help when porting, as leverage is a big factor. I am 6'3" tall and I try and stand on the legs of the engine stand to help make this process more comfortable. Each side of the port can take 10-20 minutes depending on how fluid your motions are... I run the bit in an up-and-down motion moving clockwise around the port as I remove enough material from each spot. Patience and a steady firm hand will make porting smoother.

After all of the ports are done, I go over them with rolled sand paper porting bits to smooth over any rough spots... you don't have to do this part at all, but i have been used to doing it, and its a quick 5 minute touch up...

ALSO, a big thing to have is the SHOP VAC handy at all times during porting!!!
I use it after every side of a port, to help keep it clean of metal shavings, as well as help keep a clear view on the entire port as I am working... vacuum out the ports, valley between the heads, and anywhere else you see extra shavings each time you finish a port. This helps keep your workspace clean, and keeping shavings away from your arms, clothes, shoes, etc...

I now clean the BugZuki plates of grease as well as the intake runners. Then use a even layer of Ultra Black to seal the plates to the heads, and bolt them back down to seal them tight.... I use an old set of LIM gaskets wrapped in shop towels after to cover up the ports from any added debris from working on the rest of the motor. Make sure to wipe off any extra sealant from the inside of the ports that will get squeezed out when bolting down the plates for the final time...

Now, remove the metal cover plate from the "breather" area between the heads. Install your 2.5L breather box onto the motor by sliding it through where the upper motor mount will go in... you MAY have to cut the bottom metal piece from the underneath of the breather box, as you might have one that is too deep to get in between the heads... just snip the four metal tabs holding that bottom metal piece to it, and you should be good to bolt it in...

Next is the upper Motor Mount. basically grind down the edges shown in the pics until the mount slides in without too much effort. DON"T try and FORCE it in there!!! The heads can crack if using force like a hammer to fit in in there... Just take it back out, grind more, and test fit again. its a GREAT idea to paint the engine mount after this BEFORE you bolt it down for good...
Chances are also that you may need to find your own bolts for the engine mount to bolt to the 3L... I have tons of bolts hanging around, so I don't have too much trouble, however, you might have to order them, or hit a hardware store...

ALTERNATOR ears... there are 2 pics of what needs to be trimmed off of the motor to fit a 99-00 ALT bracket. I use a recipricating saw and they come off easily... I recommend a nice long blade to reach those spots easier.

Now its time for Pulse Wheel swap, or cams if you are doing SVT cams... Remove the valve covers and timing cover to access the Pulse Wheel. You will see in the pics there is the wheel with the 3.0L mark on it. slide wheel off, rotate it to the 2.5L mark, and slide back on. Since we all use 2.5L timing covers, this HAS to be done regardless of the type of 3L swap you are attempting...

Now swap over cams, or reseal the timing/valve covers... When doing this make sure you use Ultra Black sealant at the 8 spots where the heads, oil pan, and 2 separate pieces of the block meet each other. this helps create a good seal that the timing cover seals may not be able to seal well enough. Don't skip this step, as you will get a leak...
Also, when putting the valve covers back on, you need sealant at the 4 spots where the timing cover meets the heads, and the 2 spots where the water pump/ bank 2 intake camshaft seal meets the head...

The 3L is now sealed up and completed. :bowdown:

There is a pic of the OIL Pressure Sender (sensor?) with the one white/red wire on it... Splice this into the stock Green wire with push-on connector for your earlier 99-00 Cougars... 01-02 Cougars will already have the correct connector on the stock harness...

Also, you will need to cut the Pilot bearing at the end of the crankshaft where the flywheel bolts up. cut it flush with the end of the crank, or try and remove it with the appropriate puller. I just cut it flush and call it a day.

I really hope this helps anyone wishing to attempt the PORT-MATCHING on their own. It seems like a very difficult task, but with a little patience, you can accomplish this in a weekend or so... I have done at least 12 motors like this since October, and I get a little faster each time. You will too! :)

GOOD LUCK, and please PM me with questions. Feel free to leave comments here.

Thanks!

Aircougar1 :evil:
 

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Good idea about the shop towels and grease. I had to do something similar when I screwed up a set of heads and had to TimeCert them... I packed the tap with wheel bearing grease to catch the shavings, ended up with very little in the combustion chamber (didn't have time or want to incur the expense of pulling the motor, heads, and putting everything back together). Borescopes are handy to check for any lingering remnants of metal...
 

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I really don't like using the die grinder at all... its more uncomfortable than the drill!
I can second this and add that a drill spins slower so it gives you MUCH better control and longer bit life, (unless you've spent the big bucks for a really good die grinder).

The first carbide bit I ever bought, has a bunch of chipped cutting edges from biting into the metal instead of shaving it down, due to using a grinder that spun too fast and grinding harder metals. You won't likely get chipped edges from porting aluminum, but the higher the speed, the more likely the bit will bite into the metal, leaving gouges that create more work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Aircougar, Did you use gasket maker in between the Bugzuki plates and the LIM?
Ultra Black High Temp silicone between the plates and the heads, NOT between the plates and LIM... I used the stock LIMgaskets, but you just have to snip the plastic centering pins off the bottom of the gaskets so they will sit flat against the plates...
 

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ok but lets say you dont do the porting... would it still run right??? how much would it run to have someone port them for me??

don't bother having a shop or someone along those lines do something like this as they most likely will not or they will charge alot.

you can not just bolt the 2.5L intake to a 3L. split port =/= oval port. you must port the heads or go straight 3L
 

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This is what I did with a tiny ball shaped carbide bur bit. It was horribly slow, hackish, and way too small for taking out as much metal as I needed to.:



Then I got this sweet set of bits from a friend of mine to borrow. Needless to say, having the right tools makes a world of difference.
I hogged out this 1/2 of the port in 2 minutes to show you guys some progress. I took it down to about 95% so all I have to do is polish/finish the ports smooth. I would grind for about 30 sec, dip it in motorcycle gear/motor oil, let some drip onto the area I was porting and grind away.

This is super easy. Get some good lighting and take your time sweeping the bit so you don't dig in. Any damage you think you might have done most likely can be fixed. If it starts to jump around on you hold onto the die grinder a little tighter and don't push so hard

2 minutes of grinding with this one bit:











You can see the tiny bit I started porting with laying in the case:



P.S. Bugzuki, I love you for making these plates. I would say these are a must for beginner porters....
 

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Uh.. get those shavings OUT of the ports. Clean it out the BEST you can and get some compressed air into the bore. Hit the top of the valve stems with a hammer to send whatever backwards could have got past/into the valvetrain.

Trust me.
 

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Uh.. get those shavings OUT of the ports. Clean it out the BEST you can and get some compressed air into the bore. Hit the top of the valve stems with a hammer to send whatever backwards could have got past/into the valvetrain.

Trust me.

:shrug:
Who are you talking to?
I have shop towels and grease in mine. I also have tape over the ports I am not working on to keep a cleaner working area. I will vacuum off the excess shavings and when I am all done with each port. I will turn the motor upside down and then remove the grease & rags and finish cleaning so nothing drops into the ports.

I will not be blowing air in any intake or exhaust ports just because I don't want to force a metal shaving into the motor.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Right.. blu is doing his port-matching based on this How-to. he hasn't missed a step! :) I have been following it over on CEG as well...


Wade, Absolutely! I would love to get this on video, step-by-step...

I have my 2 3Ls to do at some point, and hopefully early Spetember that will happen for at least one of them...
 

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I would also like to add that the new finished ports might have a bur/lip around where you were grinding. I would recommend taking a razor blade to knock off that edge that is above the gasket surface. I will post a pic to show what I mean.

I just finished all 6 ports burr'd and polished in about 3 hrs total using the die grinder and a 30 gal air compressor. The compressor will run the entire time except for when you vacuum ocassionally.



Thanks for the support aircougar :)
 

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I just wanted to comment on the grinding of the mount to fit between the mounted heads on the 3L. I didn't have to grind as much as shown earlier to get it to slide in with no problems.

I started with an '01 cougar mount and my motor is a '05.

The big chunk out of the power steering pump side is necessary as well as the firewall side the PSP face of the mount being almost ground down to the hole where the bolt goes in. Also the "fin" that rides up the mount on the curve needs to be cut down flush to the mount but only like half way up the mount. The "fin" is all you can really see in the bottom pic :blackeye:

The other angled grinding marks on the bolt locations is not necessary, at least for my situation.
The two holes at the bottom of the first pic I didn't have to grind at all nor the side of the mount between the right bottom most hole and the right top hole.

All the bolt-head flush surfaces of the mount were complete and untouched accept the upper most right hole area that you have to almost cut in half.

I should have took pics of mine, but didn't.

****Also, don't try to slide the mount straight in from the timing cover side. Go a couple inches higher and tip the mount into postition at a little angle. I tried going straight in and there was just too much material to remove from the mount to be feasable.



I just want you all to save as much time as possible, so like aircougar stated, grind a little and check, grind some more and check again.
Hope this helps anyone

This is the only pic I have right now:
 

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Hmm in the picture above there is the yellow painted water-"adapter". It looks like one from the 2.5 right? the one that is installed on my 3L just has one wateroutput (i cant use it i think)
But can i use a waterpump from 2,5L? wantet to get a new one with metal-paddles.
And.....very important: you can see on my photo, there is no water hose between the heads from my 3l but on the pic above it IS!!!Do i need to open this cover and put that hose there?
 

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you can use the 2.5 water pump, however the hose that goes from it to the center of the block is a different diameter. the 3L one is larger, as such the 2.5 hose wont fit the port in the block, its much simpler to use the 3L water pump.

the hose goes on the other side of the block (trans side) from where you are thinking. there should be a metal port sticking up from the block.
 
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well.....there is no port in the centre of my block...its all closed:-D:-D:-D.

ok good so far...lets talk about getting the old one out of the 2.5 and install in the 3L.(iam talking about that nozzle between the heads, i dont have it)
(So i CAN use the 2.5 waterpump hehehehe, much cheaper):rolleyes:

well i allways photograph it to explain what i try to say in english:-D
here one more pic that shows, there is nothing to put my water hose on^^ either on the left side of my block nor on the trans side.

big thanks for your answers..its difficult for me to read the text in english here sry
 

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Ah, I see a problem there. The waterpump on the 2.5L and most 3L is driven off one of the cams. Clearly your 3L did not have that. You will need to swap cams, along with the 2.5L's pump, and of course valve covers since your going port matched. Not sure if the coolant pipe coming out of the block for the 2.5L can be swapped, you may need to get a new one and have it pressed into your 3L. Obviously there is currently a plug in your block that can be removed.

Also, this questions would probably be best in the thread you already started about your engine instead of here. We try to keep stickied threads straight and to the point.
 
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