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Kouki > s13 silvia > Pignose Pop ups > Chuki > Zenki
I don't know the 240sx all that well, but assuming a google image search is showing me the right variations. I would actually say the s13 silvia is my least favorite, but hey its not my car nor did you even ask. So, you do you.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I don't know the 240sx all that well, but assuming a google image search is showing me the right variations. I would actually say the s13 silvia is my least favorite, but hey its not my car nor did you even ask. So, you do you.
:(....Ouch. A lot of people aren't too fond of it but thats ok. The car came with the silvia front because it had been in a accident making it very difficult for pop ups to work again.
 

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oh i googled chuki, thats that i have. i actually hate the pignose!!! lol. the s13 silvia is like 50/50 between people. some love it some dont. i love it, but for mine i think i wanna keep the pop ups. i like it more then the zenki thats why i bought a 93 hatch
 

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That's a sweet looking radiator. I hope the oil issue caused no harm. If it did I'm gonna go with your cursed.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Does anyone know much about how extending lower control arms affects the alignment and how the car drives overall? All im able to find out is that it gives more wheel clearance.

The only i thing i notice on cars with extended lcas is that they have a crazy amount of camber...I just want the wheel clearance and probably only -2° of camber.

Any knowledge or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Different for different cars. On a Cougar, the options would be limited since we only have one control arm.
Can you post a diagram for your car?

What your looking for may be better achieved with wheel spacers. (Certainly much cheaper)
 

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Does anyone know much about how extending lower control arms affects the alignment and how the car drives overall? All im able to find out is that it gives more wheel clearance.

The only i thing i notice on cars with extended lcas is that they have a crazy amount of camber...I just want the wheel clearance and probably only -2° of camber.

Any knowledge or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated.
If you extend out the control arms you make all kinds of interesting and sometimes unwanted things happen. First, you will increase your camber gain under roll. Secondly, your caster will be all messed up, but that may be of interest to you. See all the drift cars with the inside front tire almost off the ground. That's due to Ackerman effects combined with caster, far more than god-like power. Third your Ackerman will be all messed up and you will need to extend your tie rods or rack arms an equivalent amount to maintain factory Ackerman. Fourthly (?), you are changing the designed in relationship between front and rear roll characteristics. This is usually based on track differences between front and rear tire contact patches. A car with a wider front track (even if you keep the camber to 2 degrees negative), will have a tendency to understeer. This is good in 99% of cases on the street. widen it further and the car will understeer more. Widen your rear track and the car will want to oversteer more. This is all assuming that nothing else changes. Finally, if you extend out the ball joint only, the upper pivot point remains in the same place and you develop huge amounts of negative camber, that will have to be dialed out with an adjustable upper strut mount.

Personally, if you want wheel clearance, just use a spacer. Yes its slightly harder on the front wheel bearings, but its bags cheaper to do and you can buy them all over the place. Just try to get one with the centering hub still in it to help center the wheels so that you are not relying 100% on the wheel studs.

Eric
 

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those drift guys always run really wide front track and crazy camber. they are trying to have full control with the front while the rear is loose as a goose.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Dang. I wanted more steering angle for drifting, but didnt want to add any more understeer than the car already has.

The reason i didnt mention spacers is because i heard it "add scrub" or something like that. Negatively affecting the "scrub" radius. I have not yet looked up what "scrub radius" is, and what it does.
 

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if you go wider lcas i think scrub shouldnt be effected. at least the way im imagining it. unless you still got wider wheels. but wider wheels are the life of any racer. if you have more scrub you have more scrub. you gotta look more into if it starts negatively effecting your performance. for example in running 15 offset wheels. im sure i have ton of scrub, but i gotta do what i gotta do.

i think that im thinking this right. my heads not completely here today
 

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Scrub radius is kind of a simple thing to wrap your head around once you're looked at a few diagrams. I'll do my best to explain it. I'm going so simplify it slightly, but to start, look at the wheel and front suspension from a top-down perspective.

take your wheel, and go halfway into it's width (on a 7 inch wheel, go 3.5 inches in.) now, we'll call that your 'center point'. now, find your ball joint. for simplicity's sake, let's say that's your 'pivot point'.

if the 'center point' you found on your wheel, and the 'pivot point' align perfectly from your point of view, then you've got a 'scrub radius' of zero. this means that when you turn your steering wheel (do it in your head), it rotates perfectly, and all you're doing when you steer is rotating the tire in it's place. half the tire patch rotates one way, half of it the other. it doesn't take much effort, and you're only working a small patch on the tire.



now, on the other hand, if your wheel's center is, say, two inches further outside than the ball joint, well, you've got a 'scrub radius' of about two inches. now that the wheel is further out, you're not turning the wheel on it's axis, so it's not nice and easy like before. you're making the wheel 'swing' back and forth on a radius, in order to get it to rotate, and point the car in the right direction. all of that tire patch is going the same way, with a lever effect making it even harder to work with. that's positive scrub radius.



in other words, you're dragging that tire over the ground as you steer, which takes a lot more steering effort. it usually means the wheel will fight you, and messes with road feedback. it makes parking lot stuff a bit harder too. 23 racer is also right on the Ackerman thing, and there's negative scrub radius, but those are where my knowledge limits itself.

now, I said I would simplify; the actual pivot point isn't quite on your ball joint. Sit down in front of the car, and looking towards the back of it. Draw a line in your head, along where the strut is mounted in the shock tower, passing through the ball joint and onto to the ground. where that line meets the ground is your ACTUAL pivot point, and you measure from THERE to the center of the wheel.




complex much? kind of, but it's only hard to explain, not hard to think about once you 'get it'.
more reading : http://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/scrub-radius/
Ackermann courtesy of Hot Rod Garage and Lincoln Tech

there's also Camber, Caster, Toe, Kingpin axis, Ackerman... all sorts of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #36


5 lug hub

Vordoven forme 9 wheel
17x9 +35
Federal 595 RS-R 235/40/17

They don't fit lol. Its touching the coil over and wont sit flush on the hub.

Need hubcentric rings, spacers, and lug nuts
 

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Wow. I know its recommended, but I think I have checked my lugs after driving maybe once in my life. Do you have some crazy vibration, or is your torque wrench way out of calibration?
 
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