rear subframe restoration process
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  1. #31
    NECO Member Joeyisamadman's Avatar
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    Re: rear subframe restoration process

    So this project is now at the top of the list; I'm having issues finding the bolts that stick the arms to the subframe. the rear ones (the cam bolts, part number 6S4Z5K978AA) are shared with the 2010-2011 2.0L Focus according to This, but what about the front ones that hold the U-shaped arms?

    I'd measure the ones i have on there now, but the rusty nuts litterally flaked away under twisting from a socket wrench. they're totally shot, and unmeasurable I'm afraid.
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  3. #32
    Sometimes Faster than Dan Lifetime Platinum MemberSuper Moderator B3NN3TT's Avatar
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    Re: rear subframe restoration process

    I'd say you can use any old hardware on the front arms, since they aren't adjustable. Just check the hardness; you don't want 'em shearing off.
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  4. #33
    NECO Member Joeyisamadman's Avatar
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    Re: rear subframe restoration process

    Thanks Ben! I'll measure it's diameter and keep you guys updated. I found a workshop that'll let me use their lathes, welding equipment, and more, so a lot of projects just opened up. first off the list is this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joeyisamadman View Post
    this rivalry is getting to the point where one day, to end it, my hooptie's going to get walked by a 3L Cougar with carbon fiber add-ons.

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  6. #34
    NECO Member Joeyisamadman's Avatar
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    Re: rear subframe restoration process

    Okay. I've moved a little further forward with this. it's been months, but hey, life happens.

    I got one of each bolt off the subframe and figured i'd share their specs here so they'd be known on the net. we've been going through fastener lessons at school so I'm getting pretty comfy with this sort of thing by now.. my newfound knowledge is your gain.

    Detailed part number stuff for the cam bolt : the rear ones, which go into the flat, rearward arms, have a sort of eccentric cam on them to permit alignment adjustments.. they're not standard bolts you can buy at a hardware store. they're used, in similar forms (different part numbers, unsure of anything else) in a variety of Ford vehicles in the same spot. there's no threaded part in the subframe : that means that if the bolts are the same diameter between cars, they'd fit the same into the arm bushings and should be interchangeable. part number is usually XXXX-5K978-A. for the Cougar / Contour / Mystique, they're F5RZ-5K978-A. for a 2011 Focus, it's 6S4Z-5K978-AA. For the new Ford Edge, Mustang, Fusion and others, it's DG9Z-5K978-A. you get the point. that's the 'screw' part of the bolt. they have a cam that goes along with it; I can't find the bloody part number for it, but the 2016 Edge, Mustang, yada yada use 7T4Z5K751A.
    the nut at the end of the screw is XXXX-5K978-AA; that, however, can be found at a reputable shop : it's a flanged nylock nut. nothing special about it. Ideally, get something graded and corrosion resistant.

    if you're not a nerd, skip this : Back to the screw, it's raw measurements are as follows : major diameter, measured on the peak of the threads, is .455 thousanths of an inch, or 11.5X mm, about 29/64ths. total length including head is 3.390 inches, or 2.844 inches from the base of the shaft to the tip (I feel.. dirty.) bolt head wants an 18mm socket but if you're in a bind, a 6 point 3/4'' socket does the trick too. it's only partially threaded : of that 2.844 inches, only 1.150 are. there's a groove / channel in the threads to accomodate the cam. they're most likely 8.8 or 10.9, but since we can't source these outside of ford, that's not really relevant. Grey finish. that's it for the first screw. based on these measurements, my Machinery's Handbook tells me it's an M12x1.75 bolt. around 72 or 73mm long. the thread pitch, bolt width across flats, nominal diameter, and full diameter are all within spec.


    As for the second bolt, it proved much harder to find online. I don't have any part numbers for you guys because I lost the dang diagram the parts guy printed for me. you should be able to find it at the dealer if you need to. However, this one doesn't have any fancy tricks : it seems regular enough that you could source a replacement via Mcmaster, Fastenal, etc. specs are as follows : total length is 3.543'' , shaft only is 3.150 inches. the bolt head is flanged. the threaded portion is only about 1.400'' long. Major diameter is .460'', full diameter is (interestingly) .428''. there's a half inch long section, starting from the head, that is wider at .462''. I think that's called a Shoulder?

    It's an M14X1.50. Head width across flats and thread pitch says so. get the highest grade you can.. 8.8 or 10.9, Flanged if possible, or add a hardened washer if not. i'm going to try one of these and see if it works out.

    the body-to-subframe bolts share the same pitch and diameter as the second; M14x1.50 the nuts are interchangeable et al.

    I'm grabbing replacement hardware sometime soon to move this project forward. i'll let you know how these bolt replacements fare. I hope this is of some use to you guys eventually.

    Edit : 2nd bolt was an M14x1.50; had to look in another table in my book. Thanks, StuartGrant!
    Last edited by Joeyisamadman; 2017-02-24 at 07:07 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joeyisamadman View Post
    this rivalry is getting to the point where one day, to end it, my hooptie's going to get walked by a 3L Cougar with carbon fiber add-ons.

  7. #35
    NECO Member Gold Member nadthomas's Avatar
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    Re: rear subframe restoration process

    Wow, being able to analyze a fastener like that seems like a very useful skill to have if you work on cars at all. I would certainly make finding replacement fasteners easier. I always assumed that there was a very detailed set of standards like you described, but have never looked into it. Well done.


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  8. #36
    NECO Member Joeyisamadman's Avatar
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    Re: rear subframe restoration process

    I got the fasteners I need. both rear cam bolts and both front bolts too. A little surface rust, but serviceable. the trick to getting them off the donor subframe was spraying penetrating oil into the bushing, and turning both the arm and the bolt with a breaker bar, in opposide directions. loosened it right up.

    I also made a bit of progress on the subframe. must have grinded two hours. I'll cough up dust for days... wear a respirator next time you klutz. Plasma cutting's really, really fun. had to cut out part of the center section; just too far gone to save. welding in new metal the next time I'm in the shop. Reinforcing the sway bar brackets while I'm at it. after that , it's a coat of Duplicolor's Rust-Fix Encapsulator stuff and some spray paint on top of that, and onto the car it goes. you guys can be happy to know that the subframe is actually 1/8th'' thick or so.. beefier than it looked!


    For you guys wondering, it's not meant to be a permanent fix; I wouldn't be fixing up this particular hunk of rust otherwise. I'd like a tubular setup back there so I just need a few months. a year tops while I draw that up, and find both the free time and a spare hundred bucks to do it. should make for a beefier, less corrosion-prone subframe among other things dot dot dot

    I'll update once the wedling and painting's done. Cheers fellas.

    NECO's Leading Québécois or your money back.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joeyisamadman View Post
    this rivalry is getting to the point where one day, to end it, my hooptie's going to get walked by a 3L Cougar with carbon fiber add-ons.

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