if you have GCs and Koni look here now!

[CougarGuy1802]

okay, my front strut mounts are done for this year. it seems michigan takes its toll with full stiff, full slam and daily driven. mounts once a year lol. okay. this time im gonna leave the spring compression nut off. the nut right below the strut mount. that way when i tighten everything up on top, my strut mount finally tightens down onto the strut tower instead of a large loose gap. i expect my car to be lower by the height of this nut and to handle much much tighter. i was shown the idea by someone and im curious how long any of you have been like this? i doubt im the first to do this.

i want comments and opinions.
whos got personal experience with this.



thank you.


upon further inspection im at post 734 and i in fact live in the 7 3 4. recognize foo! lol.

[CougarGuy1802]

okay i ordered my mcmaster bearings. i wil be doing this tuesday and posting how it goes. for anyone that has ground controls and konis make sure your top retainer is flush with the strut tower, if their is a gap between the tower and your strut retainer then your in my boat. you don't need to use the nut that holds the spring to the strut anymore because were not stock. that way the mount and retainer tighten flush to the tower providing much better handling. try it, i was introduced this by a fellow ceg-er, i think you'll like it

[fordrule]

needs pics...i guess i am having trouble visualizing it......

[CougarGuy1802]

do you see my gap? its so loose now that my bearings and mounts are torn up. i miss my tight rediculous handling.

[fordrule]

i see. i am probably in the same boat and my stock struts are probably blown also. i will deff keep this in mind

[gamiller]

according to what i've read, and the statements of several mechanics:
1. not having the nut flush is harmless. it does not affect handling.
2. having the nut tightened against the tower is bad for the suspension, but i forget why.

my strut wanders, but this is due to the camber kit rather than the strut nut.

[CougarGuy1802]

Originally Posted by gamiller

according to what i've read:
1. not having the nut flush is harmless. it does not affect handling.
2. having the nut tightened against the tower is bad for the suspension, but i forget why.

my strut wanders, but this is due to the camber kit rather than the strut nut.

1. then it is loose and it feels loose.
2. tightening the retainer and mount to the tower is bad? seems to me this is how it is supposed to be? but im totally open i would like facts. i certainly don't know nearly everything. but shouldn't the top of my strut be secured to the tower rather than loose? how can you have tight, instant handling when no matter what type of steering input you give the wheel, the top of the strut must first move its looseness then it will move in the direction of the wheel?

[Turbo Zetec 'tour]

the strut wont move because of the weight on it. the top plate is only to hold the strut in the car when the suspension droops. i have a gap on Koni/B&G setup on my SVT and they handle wonderfully. i probably had a gap with my Koni/GC setup but never noticed it because of the strut tower bar. however, if the top plate is resting on the lower nut then the lower nut has come loose.

[CougarGuy1802]

it does move and iv watched it move. and of course with it being put togethar just as stock with the only substitutions made by replacing the stock strut for a koni and spring for GC then handling is increased by alot. but by securing the top of the strut to the tower handling is increased by more. the only time the thing should move is when your turning and that is done by the strut bearing. any other movement is working against your investment. ill put togethor a thing tommorow with pictures to show this.

[CougarGuy1802]

well new strut mounts, mcmaster bearings, and removal of that nut has been done. i can now first hand say this is amazing!


you don't even have to jack up the car to remove that nut though. get it done now!