PuckPuck's insane 3L build...

[EternalOne]

Nice Pierre, the engine bay will look great all freshly painted! :D

And yeah, the spray on caliper paint is crap, good choice on the brush on stuff. I initially used the spray stuff on my stock calipers and after a year they looked like crap.

Puck, what FSTB to you have? Wondering what would cause the upper strut mounts to bend like that, and hoping we can find a solution...

E1

[EternalOne]

Oh Puck, just in case ya haven't seen this yet, check out Warmonger's site on my server here:

http://www.rumodded.com/warmonger/

Lots of useful XLS docs, and good info there. Tho I'm sure you know most of it already, ya never know if you'll find a gem in there.

E1

[hamill]

John- I'm pretty sure he has the freedon design FSTB....I think it was the only one that he could use at the time.

[EternalOne]

Ah, ya sure its not the FSTB that caused the problems? I know on Brad's car his freedom design was ALL screwed up and bent to hell, when I asked wtf happened Brad said it did it to itself. Looking at the mounting for that bar the metal was rather weak compared to the OMP, which has a good solid plate for the mounting.

E1

[PuckPuck]

Originally Posted by EternalOne

Ah, ya sure its not the FSTB that caused the problems? I know on Brad's car his freedom design was ALL screwed up and bent to hell, when I asked wtf happened Brad said it did it to itself. Looking at the mounting for that bar the metal was rather weak compared to the OMP, which has a good solid plate for the mounting.

E1

Actually I use the OMP bar. With the 3L intake, it was the only one that fit. And I'm sure it wasn't the strut tower bar.

What I "think" it was:

The downside of the camber/caster kits we have is that I can't have 0 caster, and any camber I desire. When you add negative or positive camber, you end up always removing negative or positive caster. And if you remove negative or positive camber, you end up always adding negative or positive caster. Basically I can't change one without changing the other. When getting the alignment set, I had a choice between dead on camber, or dead on caster. I chose camber, as caster has a much lower effect on overall driving dynamics, and little to no effect on tire wear. Next I got to chose, negative caster, or positive caster. Since positive caster gives a more stable ride in a front wheel drive car, as well as a slight increase in camber on the outside wheels when turning, thus slightly increasing tire contact patch, I chose that.

The problem with positive caster, on a wheel that excercises larger amounts of torque, is the bad angles between how torque excercises the upwards angle forces, versus the angle of strut. Red is torque angle, blue is suspension angle. This may also be the reason why I had so little wheel hop. Using this setup, the wheel doesn't really want to hop, because the suspension will not allow it. The bad news is the result to the upper strut mounts.

The above was my theory... based on how my car was setup, what I experienced in ride, and what the end result to the components were. I may or may not be correct.


PS: Thanks for the link to warmonger's site. Bookmarked!

[EternalOne]

Ah, that makes a lot of sense now... Man, there's gotta be something that can be done though, wouldn't you think?

E1

[ClaymoreWW]

Wasn't someone selling much thicker plates for these adjustable camber kits? I am sure I saw that on CEG awhile back....they said the replacement plates were about twice as thick.

--george

[Thompson]

damn man ur plan is intense and will be excited to see how it unfolds...looks great so far. im just wondering about how much will this all cost in the end ?

[jrak123]

Originally Posted by Thompson

damn man ur plan is intense and will be excited to see how it unfolds...looks great so far. im just wondering about how much will this all cost in the end ?

If you are starting from scratch a build like this done properly will run you $4000-5000

[MaverickFlyer]

Originally Posted by jrak123

If you are starting from scratch a build like this done properly will run you $4000-5000

Fully built 3L + Turbo and Nitrous in? that's not too bad.