Cam and Crankcase Cleaning

[PzKpfw_III]

My valve covers are off for paint and I'm wondering what I should use to clean the cams and crankcase, without removing them from the car? I know Seafoam should clean some out, though while I have the opportunity I figure physically cleaning would be best. I know I won't get them perfect, but I'd hate to put the covers back on knowing the build up that's there. Does it looks like there's too much there and if I clean it all at once I'll end up knocking so many particles loose that I clog a line?

[Blackcoog]

That motor is a ticking time bomb looking like that. You can try to run some ATF in with your oil but if you knock any large chunks loose you could end up clocking your oil pump and blowing the motor up. Did someone forget to change the oil for 100k miles?

[PzKpfw_III]

I took over the car at 105k and it's at 126k now. I've changed the oil every 3k or 4k so it's not from my watch that it got like that. It's not nearly as bad as some that I've seen.

[B3NN3TT]

I'd start doing 1500-mile oil changes with a really high-detergent oil.

[PzKpfw_III]

Well I've cleaned out the majority of the sludge manually and with carb cleaner, though I'm still going to clean some more. I've hesitated to use synthetic because of the oil leak, but after this I think I may switch regardless. I'll post pics of what it looks like now.


Edit:

How does it look to you guys now?

[spridget]

Damn, that's nasty. Now that you've cleaned up some of the major gunk, check out AutoRx. This stuff works. You may need to run 2 cycles, but it will clean your engine. I suggest you drop the oil pan, remove any gunk, and clean the pickup screen. With an engine in that condition, it is imperative that you remove the oil pan, and clean it along with the pick up screen after performing any type of cleaning (engine flush, etc).

[PzKpfw_III]

Yeah i was thinking of dropping the pan after this. I'm really disappointed in how bad a condition it was in. The previous owners must have either not changed it enough or used some real cheap stuff.

[PzKpfw_III]

Is there an easier way to remove the oil pan than outlined in the Chilton manual? I'm in Utah at the moment and need to get back to NJ soon so I'm pressed for time.

[spridget]

I haven't read the Chilton manual. I suspect it tells you to remove the y-pipe. I suppose it can be done without removing the y-pipe, but a couple of the bolts are tough to access. Plus, you should probably replace the pan gasket once it's removed. The gasket tends to break at the front cover.

[PzKpfw_III]

It wants me to remove the exhaust crossover and exhaust retaining bracket on the right side of the oil pan, remove the exhaust heat shield retaining nuts and shields from the left side of the pan, remove the oil pan retaining bolts from the trans housing, remove the access plug from the engine rear plate, remove the through bolt for the left and right front engine support insulators, remove the upper front engine support bracket nuts and remove the support bracket, raise the engine and then remove the pan bolts and ultimately the pan.