Trying to start it *Accomplished* Video inside

[blustreak]

So I needed a good title to the thread and couldn't think of one so hopefully that will entice people to look inside. I also wasn't sure which section to put it in but the car has a Vortech supercharger on it and there isn't much action in this section so I thought I'd post it up here. Please move it if you feel it's necessary.

As many of you know I've got Stangkiller's old car. It has a Vortech system and many other mods. I purchased it last summer and it has pretty much sat up at my friend's ranch since then with me visiting it only on the occasional weekend. I've recently had my weekends open and I've been up messing with it but until Sunday I couldn't even get it react to anything past the ACC on the ignition. Well I finally figured out the clutch switch inside the car had been removed and replaced it but the car is not starting. It sounds like it really wants to but can't for some reason. I have a video with what it sounds like, but I'm not sure that would help diagnose what the current issue is.

Video

One thing I've noticed is that there is a fuel booster on the car and I used to hear it running when I hooked up the battery but it no longer make any noise so I think it's dead. I was told the booster was on it's way out when I got the car so I got a Walbro 255 to replace it but haven't installed it yet.

I'd appreciate any and all suggestions and help getting this thing up and running and I can take care of all the cosmetic things after it's running well again.

[Badazzcougar]

Originally Posted by blustreak

So I needed a good title to the thread and couldn't think of one so hopefully that will entice people to look inside. I also wasn't sure which section to put it in but the car has a Vortech supercharger on it and there isn't much action in this section so I thought I'd post it up here. Please move it if you feel it's necessary.

As many of you know I've got Stangkiller's old car. It has a Vortech system and many other mods. I purchased it last summer and it has pretty much sat up at my friend's ranch since then with me visiting it only on the occasional weekend. I've recently had my weekends open and I've been up messing with it but until Sunday I couldn't even get it react to anything past the ACC on the ignition. Well I finally figured out the clutch switch inside the car had been removed and replaced it but the car is not starting. It sounds like it really wants to but can't for some reason. I have a video with what it sounds like, but I'm not sure that would help diagnose what the current issue is.

One thing I've noticed is that there is a fuel booster on the car and I used to hear it running when I hooked up the battery but it no longer make any noise so I think it's dead. I was told the booster was on it's way out when I got the car so I got a Walbro 255 to replace it but haven't installed it yet.

I'd appreciate any and all suggestions and help getting this thing up and running and I can take care of all the cosmetic things after it's running well again.

Make sure you have good fuel pressure at the fuel rail.If you don't hear the fuel pump run, Check to make sure you have battery voltage at the fuel pump connector with the ign. key in the start position. It should be the larger gauge wire. If that checks out, make sure you have spark. Go get one of those cheap spark testers and plug it in. It could also just be very flooded out. Pull a spark plug and look at the electrode,If its saturated with fuel, Replace all the plugs. Maybe that will help

[lildevil20006]

Fuel pump shut-off switch tripped?

[FastCougar]

Check the obvious first ... check the fuel pump relay and fuse under the hood and like mentioned before, reset the shut-off switch if the relay and fuse are good. Start there and if none of those, start probing voltage at the pump. Above all else, don't try to crank for more than 10-12 seconds at a time so you don't burn up the starter.

Double and triple check all electrical connections under the hood!

[blustreak]

So it seems the consensus is that is has something to do with the fuel or the injectors. I'll pick up some new spark plugs and maybe a voltmeter before Saturday. Where is the shut-off switch located?

I appreciate all the help and ideas so far

[gamiller]

Do you have a Haynes manual? You really should. It describes how to troubleshoot as well as how to replace parts. Otherwise, you can get decent instructions from the AutoZone website. For example, the AutoZone site describes How to Reset the Fuel Delivery Inertia Switch. It would be good to confirm that the inertia switch is back in the default position before we do any real troubleshooting.

Watching your video, I wonder: when you turn your key to ACC, do you hear the fuel pump pressurizing the fuel system? If not, either your pump or a connection to it is dead. Let's have a look in the Haynes manual for other ideas:

Originally Posted by Haynes

Engine rotates but will not start

• Fuel tank empty
• Fault in the fuel injection system
• Battery discharged
• Battery terminal connections loose
• Fuel injector or fuel pump faulty
• Damaged ignition components
• Worn or faulty spark plugs
• Broken or loose wiring in starting circuit
• Broken or loose wiring at coil faulty coil
• Broken timing chain or belt

You should be able to cross out several of those fairly quickly. Once you have the car starting, you can follow the AutoZone procedure for troubleshooting the fuel system, if needed:

Originally Posted by AutoZone

The easiest way to test the operation of the fuel injectors is to listen for a clicking sound coming from the injectors while the engine is running. This is accomplished using a mechanic's stethoscope, or a long screwdriver. Place the end of the stethoscope or the screwdriver (tip end, not handle) onto the body of the injector. Place the ear pieces of the stethoscope in your ears, or if using a screwdriver, place your ear on top of the handle. An audible clicking noise should be heard; this is the solenoid operating. If the injector makes this noise, the injector driver circuit and computer are operating as designed. Continue testing all the injectors this way.

If all the injectors are clicking, but you have determined that the fuel system is the cause of your driveability problem, continue diagnostics. Make sure that you have checked fuel pump pressure as outlined earlier in this section. An easy way to determine a weak or unproductive cylinder is a cylinder drop test. This is accomplished by removing one spark plug wire at a time, and seeing which cylinder causes the least difference in the idle. The one that causes the least change is the weak cylinder.

If the injectors were all clicking and the ignition system is functioning properly, remove the injector of the suspect cylinder and bench test it. This is accomplished by checking for a spray pattern from the injector itself. Install a fuel supply line to the injector (or rail if the injector is left attached to the rail) and momentarily apply 12 volts DC and a ground to the injector itself; a visible fuel spray should appear. If no spray is achieved, replace the injector and check the running condition of the engine.

[gamiller]

BTW, the stock fuel pump is good for 300hp, so... you want to sell me your Walbro?

[blustreak]

I don't hear the booster like I used to when I hooked up the battery to the car. I guess I should go ahead and change the plugs just for good measure. If I get in there and they're saturated with fuel what would I do then? Pull the UIM and LIM off?

Originally Posted by gamiller

BTW, the stock fuel pump is good for 300hp, so... you want to sell me your Walbro?

"I don't think so Annie"..... I was told it's one of the best if I wanted to get away from the fuel booster. The car also has some kind of custom nitrous system on it that according to the records cost Mike quite a few of his pennies. I'd like to have the extra insurance of having the Walbro in there if I ever decide to hook the nitrous up.

[Foreverfalcon40]

GAMILLER: FOR cheap warlboro's check out all DSM websites. NYCCDSM.com DSMTRADER.COM DSMTUNERS.COM...becareful...for some reason there are different version for DSM for some reason AWD and FWD don't know if that makes a difference for the cougar can get them pretty cheap used.

[gamiller]

Originally Posted by blustreak

I don't hear the booster like I used to when I hooked up the battery to the car. I guess I should go ahead and change the plugs just for good measure. If I get in there and they're saturated with fuel what would I do then? Pull the UIM and LIM off?

I don't think you're ready to check the injectors if you are telling me that your fuel pump is not pressurizing the system when you turn the key. I also don't know what checking the plugs for fuel will get you. i'd be checking to ensure that they are properly gapped, not oil fouled, and that the plug wires and coil pack are good.