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#11 (permalink) |
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NECO Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: K-Town, GA
Posts: 225
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Re: Trying to start it
Should be in the driver side floor. Behind the hood/trunk latch. I think lol.
When me and James went with you that sunday did we get it to turn over? And IIRC we heard the fuel pump when we turned the key on right? I got the Contour/Mystique/Cougar Haynes book. So if you wanna barrow it. Let me know if you need a hand. "will work for beer and/or food!" |
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#12 (permalink) |
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NECO Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Aurora, on
Posts: 1,418
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Re: Trying to start it
check the schrauder valve to ensure ur getting fuel through the system?
i had the same problem and it turned out to be one of those square fuses. trust i septn 2 days looking for an issue and was pissed/happy to find out it was sumthing that simple. |
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#13 (permalink) | ||
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Audiobahn Abuser
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,491
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Re: Trying to start it
Quote:
Quote:
You're more than welcome to come help me out whenever. I'm going up there Saturday possibly after going to my friend's open house for here Vet Clinic. I may or may not go to it but I have plans to be working on the car for a while Sat and Sat night. I have a Ford Service CD but I can't seem to get it to run correctly on any of my machines. I'm no computer noob but the thing locks up on me constantly. I'm assuming it may have a conflict with some other programs I have installed but I don't know which. I wouldn't mind taking a look at your Haynes Book. Yeah I'm going to try and do everything I can to make sure it's getting fuel.
__________________
WTB: (1) Vortech Spec MSDS Headers (2) Front Adjustable Koni's for my GC's (3) Good condition Stock Shift knobs (4) Any condition Headliner with Sunroof (5) SVT Radiator ![]() Stock (1) 1999 MTX SGM 2.5L - Completely Stock Speed(2) 2000 MTX Black 2.5L - Under construction Sound(3) 2000 MTX LSB 2.5L - Daily Driver cougardb clease |
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#14 (permalink) |
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NECO Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Aurora, on
Posts: 1,418
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Re: Trying to start it
when my car was reacting like that i thought it may be the clutch depression sensor, so i disconnected it and just ran a wire through it so it wouldn't be needed while i was diagnosing it, that did help since the sensor ran off the same fuse as the fuel pump cut off switch
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#15 (permalink) | |
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NECO Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Milwaukee,WI
Posts: 1,100
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Re: Trying to start it
Quote:
__________________
![]() Created by Mrs. Badazz • Vortec Supercharger • SCT Chip • Bat Highflo Y-Pipe • • Snow Performance Water/Meth Injection • MSDS Headers • • 2.62" Pulley on Blower • SVT UIM • Yodude Exhaust... and Oh yeah, can you say Torque Steer?! Now Torsen,Spec 3+, and Fidanza equipped
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#16 (permalink) |
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Audiobahn Abuser
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,491
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Re: Trying to start it
If it is flooded what steps do I need to take to correct the issue? How should I go about draining the extra fuel?
__________________
WTB: (1) Vortech Spec MSDS Headers (2) Front Adjustable Koni's for my GC's (3) Good condition Stock Shift knobs (4) Any condition Headliner with Sunroof (5) SVT Radiator ![]() Stock (1) 1999 MTX SGM 2.5L - Completely Stock Speed(2) 2000 MTX Black 2.5L - Under construction Sound(3) 2000 MTX LSB 2.5L - Daily Driver cougardb clease |
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#17 (permalink) |
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NECO Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Milwaukee,WI
Posts: 1,100
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Re: Trying to start it
In very bad cases where your losing compression,because the fuel has washed away the oil on the cylinders, I would start with replacing the spark plugs and changing the oil. Pull the oil dipstick and smell it. If it smells like fuel then more then likely its been flooded. I have had Passat V6s that when you go to start them, It sounds like they have no compression,because they have been flooded out so bad. I have been lucky with a few, where if you crank the motor long enough and hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor they will start to sputter and eventually you get it running.
__________________
![]() Created by Mrs. Badazz • Vortec Supercharger • SCT Chip • Bat Highflo Y-Pipe • • Snow Performance Water/Meth Injection • MSDS Headers • • 2.62" Pulley on Blower • SVT UIM • Yodude Exhaust... and Oh yeah, can you say Torque Steer?! Now Torsen,Spec 3+, and Fidanza equipped
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#18 (permalink) |
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Audiobahn Abuser
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,491
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Re: Trying to start it
So I worked on the car for a few hours tonight. I Knew if had some type of fuel system but wasn't sure what kind. It's an Aeromotive system with a shiny red fuel filter and pump with braided lines running down the underside next to the stock lines. It also had a Pressure gauge inside the engine bay. I got the pump that pump to turn on via a switch run inside the car and it's damn loud. It seems to be running but 3 different pressure gauges both say there is no pressure.
Obviously, the stock pump is not being used but I was going to try and get it going to test and make sure it's the current pump acting up. I took out the filter and the pump, drained the fuel from them and then replaced them. Because of the way the braided fuel lines were hooked up I couldn't substitute the Walbro for the current pump using the braided lines. Before all this I checked the front three spark plugs and they looked fine from what I know. They were kinda black and dirty but not bad. I also think they're the NGK Copper plugs because this car has a nitrous system on it. I don't know if I should swap them out until one day down the road if or when I decide to run the nitrous. So now I'm not sure where to go with it. I guess I can either get a new pump that is similar to the old one. Or I can try to wire up the stock pump again and figure out how to hook up the stock fuel lines in the engine bay again. I've never done anything with fuel systems so I'm not very knowledgeable. Thanks for any more help or ideas you all can provide.
__________________
WTB: (1) Vortech Spec MSDS Headers (2) Front Adjustable Koni's for my GC's (3) Good condition Stock Shift knobs (4) Any condition Headliner with Sunroof (5) SVT Radiator ![]() Stock (1) 1999 MTX SGM 2.5L - Completely Stock Speed(2) 2000 MTX Black 2.5L - Under construction Sound(3) 2000 MTX LSB 2.5L - Daily Driver cougardb clease |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Audiobahn Abuser
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,491
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Re: Trying to start it
So after being under the car and seeing the setup I think it would be much easier and more likely better for me to simply get a new pump to replace the one that is currently on the car. I have a the Walbro but it doesn't have the correct fitting for being out side the tank so I was think of selling my current one and purchasing this one. It looks like almost the same pump as what it currently there. Does this seem like a decent solution?
Before I do this, how would one go about checking the fuel pump to make sure that's what is causing the no fuel pressure? I unhooked it and dumped what fuel was in it out and ran it with no fuel. It seemed to spit out what fuel was in it but is there a benchmark test or better way to make sure that's what it is? Otherwise I have no idea why I'm not showing any fuel pressure. The system that is currently on there looks to be a mix of the 500 and 700hp system here. I know the system maybe a bit overkill but it's already on there and setup so I might as well get it going.
__________________
WTB: (1) Vortech Spec MSDS Headers (2) Front Adjustable Koni's for my GC's (3) Good condition Stock Shift knobs (4) Any condition Headliner with Sunroof (5) SVT Radiator ![]() Stock (1) 1999 MTX SGM 2.5L - Completely Stock Speed(2) 2000 MTX Black 2.5L - Under construction Sound(3) 2000 MTX LSB 2.5L - Daily Driver cougardb clease |
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#20 (permalink) |
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NECO Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Mi
Posts: 146
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Re: Trying to start it
so did u hook up a fuel pressure guage to the schrader valve then? if so, make sure its snug on there and turn the key or however your turning the pump on like 2-3 times to let it build up pressure if it is making any, by just putting the gauge on its not gonna tell you anything, you have to let it run a few times. if you already know that then just ignore me. i would say around 40-45psi is where it should be, maybe more. thats really the main test to see if the pump is bad or not. also doing a pressure bleed off test, which is just letting the gauge sit sit for about 5min and see if the guage moved at all... if the car would run and you seemed to be having trouble with it getting enough fuel, theres another test that can be done while the car is running ,which i wont get into at the moment.
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