All or Nothing: My 3L Turbo Install

[Edward]

**** Gary you need to come back to GA to let me see that beautiful machine again! You didn't even get on it so I could hear the BOV ! Lol Ohwellz maybe ill see you around CF if I can go.


Good luck man!

[gamiller]

Dan: Just had to give the pipe a shove after loosening the clamps. We should catch up sometime, if for no other reason than to admire your handiwork. Lots more to do, but I'll make the time. I will no longer be a slave to the grind come May 1.

Edward: Sorry I couldn't give you a ride that day. The car won't see boost again until after this weekend when I reroute the PCV. I just came back from Advance Auto Parts with some vacuum caps and a hose segment.

[fordrule]

uh oh i have a feelin gary will havve big updates of his beast up and running. glad to hear gary that you are still mosing along. Its kinda like ur the trial and error guy with the stage 3 kit. its good and bad, well good for us and bad for you. but we all love u gary. but with dan and topik and trevor up there, you should be in good hands.

[gamiller]

[I've been helping my friend with his various projects. We towed two of his Supras out to the sticks where nobody will care whether or not they run. Then we parted out a Fiero so that he could upgrade his daily driver. This weekend we replaced the timing belt on his brother-in-law's Passat V6. PITA! Everything forward of the engine must be removed to get to the timing cover. ]

The breather line that got cut through was handily repaired using this . Worked like a champ and beat having to buy that overpriced, crooked, breather line from Ford! I still can't seem to keep the DPFE hose connected to the EGR tube; it keeps blowing off. I need to find a corbin clamp that will hold it.

The leak from the water pump should stop once the housing is replaced with one that has a fixed restrictor plate. [FYI, for the price of an aftermarket water pump, you could order a pump from Ford that comes with the housing. No brainer!] Once installed, it will enjoy drinking coolant chilled by an SVT radiator I got from Reebs. This tool should make the job a snap!



Trevor inspired me to do something about my oiling issue. I ordered a pair of catch cans from the highly-regarded Saikou Michi. Since the valve cover breathers flow into the block but the PCV valve flows out the block, they need separate catch cans. These baffled cans should do nicely!



I've also pretty much decided how I'm going to resolve the issue of the PCV valve seeing pressure from the outside the block, something it was not designed to handle. First, I'm going to replace the stock PCV valve with one from a car turbocharged from the factory: SVO Mustang, Buick Grand National, Supra or something more modern, such as an Evo, Speed3, or WRX. That should allow it to seal tightly when under boost, preventing air from getting into the crankcase through the valve. That solves one problem but creates another: with the valve sealed, the crankcase cannot vent excess pressure. I'm going to solve this problem the way Subaru did on the WRX by using a second PCV valve that vents to the air intake ahead of the turbo. So when not under boost, the crankcase vents following the stock route, and when under boost it vents into the induction system.

Now I just need to figure out what the source of fresh, metered air will be for the valve cover breathers...

[jaged]

psssst. i didnt sell you a svt rad

[gamiller]

I've been collecting parts while preparing to overhaul my suspension. Everything arrived the weekend before last, but I postponed progress in order to checkout Andy's supercharger install. In addition to heckling DanG, one of the things we did was to fill roll restrictors with 60A urethane from McMaster Carr. Mine are below. Not too shabby! Duct tape FTW:



Last night, I started overhauling my front suspension. There has been a terrible clunk from the passenger side and the driver's side CV boot was leaking, so I decided I would go ahead and replace everything: struts, strut bearings, control arms, half shafts, and sway bar bushings.



Things were chugging right along: half shaft out, ball joint out, wheel knuckle off, strut assembly out, control arm... not coming out. The subframe bolt is just spinning in place b/c the nut detached from the frame. At least I found a couple of workarounds that I will attempt tomorrow.

Show and Tell: Exhibit A
Evidence for the passenger side clunk: broken strut mount from the BAT camber kit.



Show and Tell: Exhibit B
Which of these struts is not bad? Hint: which one still pushes out the piston?

[Topik]

Originally Posted by gamiller

I've been collecting parts while preparing to overhaul my suspension. Everything arrived the weekend before last, but I postponed progress in order to checkout Andy's supercharger install. In addition to heckling DanG, one of the things we did was to fill roll restrictors with 60A urethane from McMaster Carr. Mine are below. Not too shabby! Duct tape FTW:



Last night, I started overhauling my front suspension. There has been a terrible clunk from the passenger side and the driver's side CV boot was leaking, so I decided I would go ahead and replace everything: struts, strut bearings, control arms, half shafts, and sway bar bushings. Things were chugging right along: half shaft out, ball joint out, wheel knuckle off, strut assembly out, control arm... not coming out. The subframe bolt is just spinning in place b/c the nut detached from the frame. At least I found a couple of workarounds that I will attempt tomorrow.

Show and Tell: Exhibit A
Evidence for the passenger side clunk: broken strut mount from the BAT camber kit.



Show and Tell: Exhibit B
Which of these struts is not bad? Hint: which one still pushes out the piston?

Gary I suffered the exact same issue from my camber kit as well. God awful clunk

[gamiller]

Originally Posted by Topik

Gary I suffered the exact same issue from my camber kit as well. God awful clunk

Sheesh! Sounds like the product wasn't put together so well. I am installing new, OEM, strut mounts in place of the camber kit. What are you using for a strut mount when you install your coil-overs? BTW, there's a thread at CEG that mentions that the KSport coil-overs now feature a tab for the pinch bolt.

[AndyMan]

wow... ur rubber fillers look better then mine... i'm jealous now. Ha

[gamiller]

Originally Posted by AndyMan

wow... ur rubber fillers look better then mine... i'm jealous now. Ha

I took a picture of the pretty side. The back side has the pattern left behind from the tape. FYI, the duct tape did a better job than the masking tape at keeping the urethane from leaking out. But your mounts should be as effective as these.

I spent half the day yesterday trying to free a nut from the end link bolt through the strut. SOB just kept spinning in place. I ended up taking a Dremel to it with a cut-off wheel. After breaking three wheels on it, I sawed through the last of the nut with a hacksaw. The threads were pretty messed up afterward, so I found a M10X1.5 die and cut new threads. The new nut spins right on. Of course, if time was money, it would have been wiser to just buy a new end link.