All or Nothing: My 3L Turbo Install

[jaged]

looks sweet, but is that a stock 3L tb i see? need at least a 65mm if not 70mm. itll flatten out the peak of your power curve nicely. its doable with the 3l uim, ive got one on mine right now

[Alkatraz]

impressive

[AndyMan]

Dan is the freaking man

he had a hell of a time working on my engine too

[StealthyWeasel]

Originally Posted by jaged

looks sweet, but is that a stock 3L tb i see? need at least a 65mm if not 70mm. itll flatten out the peak of your power curve nicely. its doable with the 3l uim, ive got one on mine right now

ok, that answers my question

[DanG]

Originally Posted by jaged

lits doable with the 3l uim, ive got one on mine right now

Even if you're using the stock 3L IACV?

Remember- This setup has the IACV bypass pathway in the TB.

[gamiller]

As mentioned, there were some differences among the injectors I received:



If you look closely, you'll notice that the injectors on the outside are longer on top, but the injectors in the middle are longer at the bottom. So they are both about the same overall height, but the body of the injector sits lower in the former case. This makes no difference, if the injectors can be fully seated and the harness plugs reach.



Notice that the one on the left has three holes at the center whereas the one on the right has one. Both flow 42#/hour, but I have to believe that the spray patterns differ.

[warmonger]

Well I think you guys did pretty good all things considered. I mean the install looks clean and problems were solved pretty well. You did a good job writing it up and we appreciate the unbiased way you are descibing everything.

Let me write our take on each of the issues you had and describe out in writing a little about our tuning so that people can understand how it all works out.

The only issue with piping fitment was that the precision turbo's downpipe bolt holes were offset about 3/8" further to the bearing center housing than the Garret, Masterpower, and Turbonetics turbos. It seems that all we have to do is machine a small spacer plate with a copper gasket between 1/4-3/8" to provide clearance for the downpipe when using the different turbo.

The other issue you guys had with the intake piping seems only to have come about because the parts weren't put on in the correct order. For our part we'll look at the instructions to make sure that they are more explicit. However it seems that it may resolve itself when the parts are put in as intended.

The injectors: I don't think we were aware that Precision did not use identical injectors. I would recommend looking at it in this way; if the injectors are working fine and not causing any leaks then probably be fine to leave it alone. If you are not getting misfires under idle and cruise then you will be fine because under forced induction and full spray it really only matters how much they flow and that they are atomizing correctly. The number of nozzle holes is indictative ONLY of how the manufacturer chose to achieve that atomization...kind of like two different routes to the store achieve the same result. The only concern you have should be that they fit, and that the impedance's are pretty close. You can check those four injectors and get the average impedance, then compare to the impedance of the other two. If they are within +/- 0.5 ohms then you are good. If they are both outside of that then let us know. The computer is made to adapt to injectors of slightly different impedances as in the case of fuel trims and such. Unless they are off by a lot then it should not be an issue. If you feel unsatisfied by what I posted here, then we'll exchange the two injectors.

As far as tuning. I've already provided a base tune and if you provide a good datalog with all the data I asked for I'll look it over and verify everything is operating correctly. For those of you who are wondering, that is what is included in the turbo kit, a functioning and safe tune.

If beyond that you want to do some dyno tuning with an appointment where I or Joey are standing by ready to make changes then that would be additional tuning costs. We can do it by the hour or do it as a flat rate. I've offered dramatically lower tuning costs than almost everyone out there in order to gain business and build a reputation. You will almost NEVER find a tuner willing to tune on a flat-fee basis due to all the problems associated with it. Most of the experiences I have are that the customers have had mechanical issues on the car and blame it on the factory PCM needing a tune. Then they buy the tune and the problem manifests itself again or in a slight different way and now its 'our' problem. So we still offer flat-rate tuning or we can do it by the hour depending on how people want it, but we specify that the car must be mechanically sound for good results. We'll still tune it but if we run across a problem then all tuning will stop until you get it fixed and then we'll resume. If you don't fix it, take more than 30 days to fix it without contacting us, or haven't made some sort of an agreement with us about re-starting the tuning at a later date, then we can cancel the tuning service at our option.

You may also go to any tuner you wish but they will have to provide their own tunes, we will not provide them with any tuning data. The only exception to this are for our brothers in the United Kingdom and Europe/Australia who have a different engine management system that we cannot tune. In that case we have a tentative deal with an SCT sister company called Dreamscience where we will provide the pertinent data for a tune on our cars so that our customers do not have to suffer through another shop experimenting on their car.

So hope this answers all the questions people might have had. Big thanks to Gary and Dan as well for helping to break this in for the Cougar guys.

[gamiller]

Thanks, Tom. As I told Joey, I'll see if I can rearrange the intake side so the filter sits higher. Since 600 miles have been put on the powertrain, I also want to change the transmission fluid and engine oil.

I don't have any logs yet because my fuel rail hasn't been repaired yet. I went down to the shop this morning, only to learn that they never got around to it. This after telling me it would be ready on Monday, then Tuesday, then Wednesday, now Thursday... There's another shop to which I will take the rail tonight. Hopefully they have a better work ethic. I would really like to be up and running again this weekend!

[DanG]

Gary- Bummer... I texted your phone on this earlier-

My dad used silver rod on the fuel rail. I wouldn't recommend they take the fuel rail apart if they can help it- I'm afraid it won't go back together and align with the UIM and fuel lines properly. It should NOT be an issue to re-braise the connections (as well as the compression fittings to ensure a permanent fix) in-place. What is the issue exacty?

[gamiller]

Originally Posted by gamiller

As mentioned, there were some differences among the injectors I received:

...

Notice that the one on the left has three holes at the center whereas the one on the right has one. Both presumably flow 42#/hour, but I have to believe that the spray patterns differ.

For those curious, I recorded the numbers stamped on the injectors:

3-hole Injector #01D030B
1-hole Injector #D1163BA

Searching the part # online consensus was such that the 3-hole flows 42# but the 1-hole flows 38#!

Now, I don't believe I will outflow the 38# injectors, but I have to believe that a mismatched set is at least potentially problematic.