Please Don't Get Mad!!!

[canadiancougar]

I've read all the posts (I think) and used the search button but I just wanted to double check with you guys befor I go and buy myself a nitrous kit. I have a 99 v6 mtx and want to add a nitrous kit w/ purge. What do I need to make the kit kick in at WOT? I don't want to have to push a button to make it go, I just want it to kick in it's self at WOT. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I should get a "WET KIT", correct.

Thanks alot for looking at my post, I'm new to nitrous and just don't want to buy a crappy kit for my car. Any help is appreciated.

[MOMO]

i wont get mad but im gonna tell your right now that you didnt do enough "surch".

if you did, then you would know that wet or dry kit is dependent on whether you have a return or returnless fuel system.

you would also have found out that some nitrous kit has a management system which allows you to be "plug and play", like a Zex kit.

[nadthomas]

Yep, what he said ^^^^^

You need to search more. Since you have a 99 your fuel system could be return or returnless. If you have a return fuel system then you will want to go dry, if you have a returnless fuel system you will want to go wet.

Zex tends to be the nitrous system of choice around here, but there are certainly other kits/manufactures that will work fine as well. The zex kit has a module that you install and it gets calibrated to spray only when you foot is to the floor. I believe pretty much all basic systems do it this way, but I only have experience with zex.

[Y2Kat]

If you have a returnless fuel system you'll need to do a wet kit, which adds fuel and nitrous at the same time. If you have a return fuel system you can use a dry system, which only sprays nitrous.
My system is a NX (Nitrous Express) 75 shot wet kit. I also have a window switch that keeps fires the system at WOT at 300rpm, then cuts it off at 6000 rpm to attempt to stop any lean conditions. I also have a fuel pressure cutoff switch that also helps stop any lean conditions. My kit had a switch that mounts near the throttle linkage that is engaged at WOT, some kits have a electronic throttle position sensor that engages the system.
The most important thing in my opinion is the fuel pressure safety switch and the window switch. Cheap insurance with nitrous.

Find out if you have a returnless or return fuel system 1st, then choose what kit you want.

[ilovemycar]

Originally Posted by nadthomas

..... If you have a return fuel system then you will want to go dry,

Incorrect. I have a 99 return style cougar...with a wet kit.

[PuckPuck]

CanadianCougar - no one will get mad at you, you searched and tried, and unfortunately some people, even the so called members who search themselves, don't even have the right answers for you

Just to be clear, the fuel system has NOTHING to do with what kit you buy.

If you want to spray anything over a 35 shot safely you must use a WET kit, otherwise you'll need a way to control the injectors yourself.

Nearly all kits you buy will come with a WOT switch. Some are electronic, others are mechanical. It doesn't matter which one you get, they both work just fine. Just look into the contents of the kit, and you'll see a Wide Open Throttle (or WOT) switch will be included. I know for certain the NX EFI Kit has it, and I'm sure the ZEX kit will have one also.

Also even with a WOT switch, you still need to "arm" the system. This isn't activating it, but more just saying "I'm ready to spray". I'm going to say with much certainty you won't spray a big shot in 1st gear as that will be just a tire melting event. So you need to hit the "arm" switch between 1st and second gear. Wherever you put that switch to easily grab it between gears is key. I mounted mine where the ashtray goes. As I'm grabbing gears, I just flick the switch with my index finger, then next time I put the peddal to the floor, N2O is entering the intake.

For purge, this is usually an add-on to all kits. Just buy a purge kit and you are good to go.

Finally if you don't care so much about the name brand you are buying, and would rather save some money, check out DynoTune - DynoTune-Nitrous systems, components and digital gauges... they have great deals on all nitrous products, you may have to piece together a kit yourself, but they will have everything you need for much cheaper than name brands. The only thing name brands "may" have that is better is the actual nozzles, but since you aren't spraying large amounts, I wouldn't worry about it, as their nozzles will be sufficient for your needs.

[Clutch]

return wet or dry, returnless WET. Done.

[wanderingmind]

Originally Posted by Y2Kat

I also have a window switch that keeps fires the system at WOT at 300rpm, then cuts it off at 6000 rpm to attempt to stop any lean conditions.

You mean 3,000 rpm, right?

I agree with the consensus here, which sounds like you didn't do enough research. I researched for several weeks before purchasing my kit. Remember, you don't have to just read info on this forum. There's a good FAQ on the contour forums and tons of info on other websites. Remember, the internet is a big place.

[PuckPuck]

Originally Posted by Clutch

return wet or dry, returnless WET. Done.

So I'm curious... I have a return system, and buy a 75 shot dry system... how should I add extra fuel?

You could probably use a rising fuel pressure regulator, and try to fool the ECU without screwing up anything else, and hoping that your injectors won't max out... but why not just buy a wet kit instead?

again fuel system has nothing to do with wether you buy a wet or dry kit. The size of the shot does.

[pgtatx]

Honestly, after everything, I can't believe all the incorrect information here.

There is more than 1 type of dry shot out there, and then a wet shot.

Simply enough... A Dry shot, sprays ONLY N2O into the intake. We'll talk about fuel in a minute. A wet shot sprays N2O and Fuel through an atomizing jet into the intake.

A return fuel system utilizes a Vacuum controlled FPR to control fuel pressure, where as a returnless fuel system does not. Fuel pressure is controlled at the pump electronically.

Where will the fuel come from?

Typical Dry Shot like the Zex kit: The solenoid box from Zex contains 2 solenoids... 1 for fuel and one for the N2O. The fuel solenoid doesn't allow fuel to pass, but instead it allows a small amount of N2O. This line connects to the vacuum lone at the top of the FPR. When the system activates and you nail it (using a WOT switch), the N2O will create positive pressure on the FPR increasing fuel pressure when the N2O is spraying. Increased fuel line pressure equals more fuel into the cylinders. You still use the restrictor pills aka jets in the N2O and fuel line to control how much fuel pressure increase and how much N2O is to be Sprayed.

Venom type Dry shot: Venom (aka Python Industries) uses a fully electronic system. This dry shot can be used on any fuel injected car. It increases fuel by controlling the pulse width of the injectors.

Either dry shot will be limited by the injector size... you do not want to run a modded cougar with a big shot on stock injectors... you may just run out of fuel. You can only increase pulse width and/or fuel pressure so much before you begin to mess with the injectors spray pattern, and or even end up just leaking fuel through the injector.

A Wet shot... does not require any change in fuel pressure or anything at the injector level. The increased fuel comes from a fuel line tapped into the main fuel line. Fuel is atomized in the nozzle and N2O and fuel are sprayed directly into the intake simultaneously.

Additionally, a typical dry shot can be used on a returnless fuel system, however you will need a way to increase fuel somehow. There are methods to increase fuel pressure and or control injector pulse width yourself. You can tie everything together with the use of an electronic controller and/or WOT pressure switch so the 2 systems will work together. I do believe this has been done on here.

I believe all of my info in correct... anyone is more than welcome to correct me... but the issue is, people speak too generally about things, using the terms Wet or Dry, and Return vs. Returnless without going into specifics... this leads to many confusing points.

Simply enough...

Dry Shot = N2O ONLY sprayed into intake...
Wet Shot = N2O + Fuel (atomized) Sprayed simultaneously into the intake...

Any additional questions or concerns... I will gladly answer...

On a side note... You can run a 75 dry shot on the cougar... keeping with safety, the larger the shot, the more mods you have... specifically the higher the power output before and or after the N2O shot, you may need to increase injector size. Of course you would need a tune for every day driving. If you want to run huge shots... a wet setup and more specifically a wet direct port setup is the way to go.