Project: Mavro Gato - 99 Turbo'd 3L

[gamiller]

Trevor - Tread lightly!

Originally Posted by Keyser

23psi lifts a head with a built bottom end.

Originally Posted by BurritaSVT

Yes puckpuck it was ARP head studs, but the CR was 9:1.1. Since the combustion chamber is less, 23 psi will net the engine less power than [stock] 3 liter @ 18 psi. I am not sure where the problem will come up on the 3 liter, but we will see how much she can take soon.

Originally Posted by Keyser

A little less than 9:1. Those heads were the most worked set Jesse ever did. Had ARP studs torqued to 60. The head lifted and coolant splashed on top of the hot pistons. You can imagine the rest.

[FastCougar]

Thanks for the heads up Gary!

However, keep in mind this was done on the street breaking traction, so there was very little load on the engine when I hit this mark. On the dyno ... that's a different story. Strapped down to a resistance roller places completely different loads on the car than it does when it's rolling down the road. I would guess that the equivelant would be boosting up a 20% grade hill with drag slicks. I don't plan to take it over 18 psi on the dyno ... MAYBE 20 psi if that. However, I don't be going past 11 psi until I solve this overheating problem ... seems that once the intercooler is heatsoaked, the radiator is seeing only hot air and it's not very well directed at that. I need to duct this thing over the winter to direct the air across the intercooler and radiator properly.

[Topik]

If it makes you feel better trevor im having cooling problems as well. :/

[gamiller]

Ducting will be one of my next projects as well...

[DanG]

Originally Posted by Topik

If it makes you feel better trevor im having cooling problems as well. :/

With the SVT radiator??? Or are you talking about the liquid I/C and the heat exchanger saturating?

[FastCougar]

No ... I have an Air/Air FMIC, not a Water/Air heat exchanger. I probably used the term heatsoak incorrectly ... intake tubing is nice and cold to the touch, but the radiator is running uber hot. I need to confirm fan operation and do a few small checks first (this coming weekend), but I'm fairly certain it has to do with a few things:

1) The intercooler is blocking radiator too much (2/3 of the radiator is shielded from incoming air.
2) The air that is reaching the radiator is post intercooler and thus MUCH hotter than the ambiant air.
3) The air coming from the cougar grill isn't being shielded down (the car didn't have the shield between the upper radiator support and the grill when I bought it). So, some of the incoming air is most likely being diverted over the radiator support since the hood didn't have the weather stripping across the front of the hood.

So, improper ducting + hot air = hot radiator = little cooling

[FastCougar]

Doh! just realized that you directed that question to Kevin

[bensenvill]

yes that hood shroud will make a big difference on heat. [do you also have the lower shrowd on or does that interfere with the intercooler?]

also is the A/C still in the car? removing that will provide a fair amount more airflow to the radiator.

[FastCougar]

A/C is gone ... the lower shrouds where removed to fit the Intercooler, but could probably be refitted. However, I will be creating my own shrouds with plumbing for remote air feeds (think brake ducts). I have everything worked out in my head, I just need to fabricate it now.

[SpookSVT]

Originally Posted by gamiller

Trevor - Tread lightly!

He's fine. Manifold pressure has nothing to do with with the dynamic compression. The actual weight of air in the chamber is what will change the compression. Crank up the boost!!