Project: Mavro Gato - 99 Turbo'd 3L

[FastCougar]

Due to cost, I'm going to attempt to fabricate my own "hard" return line from "soft" copper tubing. I just purchased a double flaring tool that also does 45 degree single flares. That and some fittings and I should be good to go. Not to mention, the soft copper tubing can be bent in place, so I can get into those hard to reach areas that are causing my line to currently slope up. Flaring tool including shipping + supplies should run me less than $60

[warmonger]

Originally Posted by FastCougar

I just reread this ... there is not enough pressure after the oil leaves the turbo to push it through the lines. So, what happens is that the oil will pool back up the center cartrige in the turbo and with pressure building from the supply line, the oil will force it's way through the turbo seals and into either the intake or exhaust housings, or both. Either way, you will have a nice smoke screen behind the car and in my case, an $850 paper weight for a turbo. Blown seals require a rebuild and they normally cost around $300, so the turbo isn't a complete write-off, but will involve more money.

I don't think this is such a significant deal and I'm darn sure I wouldn't want the parasitic load of the AC compressor turning the whole time even if it didn't have much of a load on it. I'd pull it off and sell it.

If you do your oil system routing correctly you won't have issues with blown seals on our cars.

[warmonger]

Originally Posted by FastCougar

Due to cost, I'm going to attempt to fabricate my own "hard" return line from "soft" copper tubing. I just purchased a double flaring tool that also does 45 degree single flares. That and some fittings and I should be good to go. Not to mention, the soft copper tubing can be bent in place, so I can get into those hard to reach areas that are causing my line to currently slope up. Flaring tool including shipping + supplies should run me less than $60

Make sure to use a minimum of 3/8" Inside Diameter or roughly 1/2" OD tubing.
Better to use the hard line and the variety of 45* and 90* angles they provide as I've shown in my kits from years back.

Honestly you could get 1/2" corrugated natural gas flex line that can be routed in any direction and use it as long as the first few inches go straight down it is not going to back up oil and it will only trap some in the bottom turn as it goes in. I However like to use the copper water line and cut-braze all the fittings together and use a 1/2" compression fitting into the side of the pan because it makes it a perfect fit and easily removable. for service.

[FastCougar]

Originally Posted by warmonger

Make sure to use a minimum of 3/8" Inside Diameter or roughly 1/2" OD tubing.
Better to use the hard line and the variety of 45* and 90* angles they provide as I've shown in my kits from years back.

Honestly you could get 1/2" corrugated natural gas flex line that can be routed in any direction and use it as long as the first few inches go straight down it is not going to back up oil and it will only trap some in the bottom turn as it goes in. I However like to use the copper water line and cut-braze all the fittings together and use a 1/2" compression fitting into the side of the pan because it makes it a perfect fit and easily removable. for service.

That's exactly what I have ... 1/2" OD "Type L" soft copper (hand bendable) tubing. It's used in water and refrigeration applications. I have a double flaring tool on it's way and today at lunch, I'm going to a plumbing store to get my fittings. The tubing is 10' (I only need 16"-18") and cost $22. I may come back and address the return line with hard copper tubing after I get it worked out with the soft.

[BurritaSVT]

Originally Posted by FastCougar

That's exactly what I have ... 1/2" OD "Type L" soft copper (hand bendable) tubing. It's used in water and refrigeration applications. I have a double flaring tool on it's way and today at lunch, I'm going to a plumbing store to get my fittings. The tubing is 10' (I only need 16"-18") and cost $22. I may come back and address the return line with hard copper tubing after I get it worked out with the soft.

Trevor I sell the 3/8 ID copper tubing for our kit and it is the soft style. I used one 45 degree elbow then we use a high temp hose with barb right after to allow it to be installed easier over the tranny mount then straight down but since you are experienced installer then go all the way copper if you like. Or just put a quick connect at the spot under the turbo so you can uninstall the turbo quickly which I glad we installed on our kit since it make it easier when you have to remove the turbo for any reason. Do not go less then 3/8 id period it will burn oil and be sure to use a nice restrictor before hand. joey

[FastCougar]

I forgot to post pictures, but I have the Function7 restrictor nipple (all billet aluminum) ... nice piece!

[FastCougar]

I need to get some pictures, but I ended up removing the EGR & DPFE. I capped the rear header where it hooked up to the EGR. I also capped the UIM where the EGR connected as well. I also removed the LIM linkage for the secondaries and removed the secondary butterflies and rods. I had to redo my turbo placement by dropping it 2-3 inches further and straightening out the flange. I'm having a hell of a time fitting my 80mm MAF & filter to the compressor inlet, but the above changes have given a few needed inches and I have it all figured out now. I'm just waiting on some more supplies before I can continue.

[FastCougar]

Some pictures:

SVT LIM with secondaries removed. After removing the butterfly rods, I tapped the holes and bolted them shut.



EGR valve removed. Also note the DPFE sensor is missing as well.

[wadespencer99]

So you removed the EGR system just for room, or for tuning reasons too?

[jaged]

what no cruise !?!