Project: Mavro Gato - 99 Turbo'd 3L

[Gorman]

Fastcougar..hi, nice job...it's going well. Looking at your battery I don't see an inline fuse. If you put one at each end...whatever happens...battery crushed in rear end shunt, or t boned...the power from the battery or the alternator will be disconnected. I clipped my cable to the underside of the floorpan and chassis all the way to the alternator. Hope this helps G. p.s. keep a spare fuse in the glovebox (something i learned the hard way)

[B3NN3TT]

I thought you were runnung an Aussie rear bar, Trevor. That looks like a Roush to me...

[FastCougar]

Originally Posted by B3NN3TT

I thought you were runnung an Aussie rear bar, Trevor. That looks like a Roush to me...

Long story short, I had to trade my Aussie bar for the Roush to SVT3391 because I owed him some money for destroying his rear ABS sensor AND we didn't have the proper brackets to attach the Roush to his ATI rear subframe. I had 24mm brackets and bushings for the Aussie bar handy and since I owed him money for the sensor and his bar wouldn't work and we already had everything apart, a deal was made: I take his Roush bar, he takes my Aussie bar and I don't have to pay for the ABS sensor AND we got the project done on-time. Otherwise, we would have had to put the stock unit back in and had him come back when we got the right sway bar brackets.

[PuckPuck]

Agreeing with Gorman here... you should have a 150amp ANL fuse at either end of that battery cable, especially if you are worried about chaffing

[FastCougar]

Actually, I think I'm going to run the battery cable inside the cabin now.

[FastCougar]

Please educate me ... I'm not an electrical guy, so please excure my ignorance in this matter. However, I have seen where people have a junction box under the hood where they tie all the power distribution box wires to one side and then have the power cable from the trunk on the other. In the middle is a post so that they can charge the battery/jump the car from under the hood vs. poping the trunk. What is this thing called and where would I get one (summit/jegs/audio store)???

[PuckPuck]

On my setup I have a fuse just off the battery (actually its part of the battery top)... next I have the cable runs through teh cabin, and into the engine bay. Just before my junction box (distribution box) I have another fuse.

If there's an issue with the distribution block or something electrical from the car/alternator the engine bay fuse will go. If I get chaffing on the wire where it passes through the firewall (even through I have a grommet there), the battery fuse will go.

The type of fuse is called ANL, and all you need is an ANL fuse holder. Check out ebay, I wouldn't even bother with name brand here, it's just a piece of clear plastic with 2 posts in it to hold your fuse. I bought my fuses locally at a liquidation store for 5$, but I have seen them go for as much as 25$ brand new.

[warmonger]

Originally Posted by jrak123

I would guess that problem to be more of a grounding issue than the power wire itself. My thoughts were, instead of running it down the floor board along the passenger side of the vehicle and then exit at one of the floor drain plugs to avoid it going by the harness and all the electronics under the dash. But I would want as much of the cable as possible to be inside of the car and out of the elements. Just some food for thought.

I ran all my power cable outside under the car body just inside that little weld seam. Important not to have cabling that heavy next to other wiring as the induced EM noise in things like stereo wiring will be very annoying. IMO

Also, From 1999 to 2006 that exterior #4 cabling made by stinger has been and is still working great.

[warmonger]

Originally Posted by FastCougar

One of my only concerns with exterior routing is chaffing at the point already described ... trust me, I already thought of that. Otherwise, the cable sheething is extremely thick and can survive the exterior just fine. The ONLY reason for an interior routing other than chaffing is to protect the wire in the event of an accident. With my current routing, imagine if someone T-boned me on the passenger's side rear, severed the cable and punctured the gas tank at the same time ... not a pretty thought if the severed wire met bare metal!

Just do what I did and buy a 100amp circuit breaker from a stereo place and wire it into the back. Short or accident, no issues.

I used all stinger brand stereo wiring components anyway. The circuit breaker is sweet because you can push the button to cut all power from there forward. Wiring one withing 12" of your + terminal on the batter is the safest way. Of course a fuse works fine but a breaker can be reset easily. I recommend this route for you.

You can buy a terminal block for the front of the car online. I made my own with a block of wood that was painted for an insulator, welded in a ground terminal and screwed on new + and - terminals to the this block. Then I just hooked the front end battery cabling as normal with the power cable coming from the trunk hooked in with the + terminal I made. This made it easy for testing voltage, jump starting a car, etc.

[Livinsvt]

You guys realize that OEM cars with trunk mount battery do not have a fuse run. If anything a fusible link. Reason being there is no fuse big enough that will allow the current most starters draw. Thats upwards of 500 amps of current draw or more on some cars!