Project: Mavro Gato - 99 Turbo'd 3L

[J-Man]

Any reason behind keeping the secondaries?

[FastCougar]

Because there really is no need to remove them ... Warmonger has proven this. When they start to become a restriction, I will remove them ... it's easy enough to do with the engine in the car. Besides, I'm breaking the car in natrually aspirated.

Speaking of breakin, Warmonger will have his hands full with my tune:

8.7:1 to 8.8:1 Compression Ratio
"Monster" turbo cut heads
42# injectors
80mm 2000 Lightening MAF
"Max Honed" UIM
70mm Throttle Body

and for the kicker:

Stock fuel pump

Yep, when he tunes this thing to run naturally aspirated so I can break in the clutch/trans, he will definitely prove himself a great tuner ... as if he hasn't already with Stilov & BarritaSVT.

[warmonger]

Originally Posted by FastCougar

I'm hesitant to fit my DMD to the engine now due to problems dropping the engine in. IIRC, Dan, you had a problem with SVTPete's hybrid install because the DMD was too big. Question is ... how do your properly install a DMD AFTER fitting into the chassis ... you can't get the additional 90 degree turn on the bolt with the car inches off the ground ... so, what do I do?

Use an air impact. It's never been an issue to buzz one on for me. I gave up on all that special crap with either damper. 250 ft-lb impact and its on there good but can still be removed.


I like how you build looks. Also funny how proud of your silver idler pulley. Hahah the funny thing is I've been doing an almost identical build of an engine right now for a guy in GA over the past 10 days....waiting on parts right now. BUt I used the same paint, cleaning process, and even pulled the idler pulley and tensioner for painting like you did. I too am very proud of the new paint on the tensioner and pulley. Only I used VHT on the black tensioner pulley.

Of course I cut all the ears while the parts were apart before cleaning though. It takes very little time with a Sawzall and the metal cutting blade. I spent maybe 5 min on the crank, 8-10 min on the "offending ear" where the coolant lines go and 5 minutes each on the upper/lower ears where the alternator bracket goes. All very clean cuts too if I may say so. I even took a file and cleaned up the cuts on the engine so they look like stock.

So I'll have this guys engine back together in about 4hours after I get all the parts.
He's only the second person to get the whole Original Warmonger's race-ported heads. If you guys recall my old webpage I put up back in 2001 where I did all the head porting and such on my hybrid and then set down 217 wHP with stock pcm and no tuning...well like that.

Well there you go, your thread and I'm hijacking it. lol
Sorry

[warmonger]

Originally Posted by FastCougar

Because there really is no need to remove them ... Warmonger has proven this. When they start to become a restriction, I will remove them ... it's easy enough to do with the engine in the car. Besides, I'm breaking the car in natrually aspirated.

Speaking of breakin, Warmonger will have his hands full with my tune:

8.7:1 to 8.8:1 Compression Ratio
"Monster" turbo cut heads
42# injectors
80mm 2000 Lightening MAF
"Max Honed" UIM
70mm Throttle Body

and for the kicker:

Stock fuel pump

Yep, when he tunes this thing to run naturally aspirated so I can break in the clutch/trans, he will definitely prove himself a great tuner ... as if he hasn't already with Stilov & BarritaSVT.

I wouldn't say I proved they aren't a restriction per se, depending on your build I think I've proven that they are in most cases not a restriction.
I have to reserve opinion until I see a dyno of DemonSVTs car, his is the only car that I'd think may have a chance of showing he's better off without them but then he did everything start to finish from the build, install, part selection and tuning with the Tweecer setup.
He's also kept all of it to himself except for the track time of course. lol

[FastCougar]

What's that ... hell froze over?

No, Greg finally posted a dyno chart of his engine

[warmonger]

Bwahahaha!
:D

[dyed4ordblue]

Trevor, your attention to detail is amazing. I am very impressed. I can't wait to see the final numbers. Is this still going to be a kit, or is this only for your cougar?

[Blackcoog]

The DMD can get in the way. It's a good idea to install it while the engine is in the car. Also I noticed that removing the transmission tower makes the engine install so much easier as it can slide under the brake booster much easier.

[FastCougar]

Originally Posted by Blackcoog

The DMD can get in the way. It's a good idea to install it while the engine is in the car. Also I noticed that removing the transmission tower makes the engine install so much easier as it can slide under the brake booster much easier.

The reason I brought up the DMD issue is because I have experienced it first hand helping DanG do an install ... it will stay off the engine until she is bolted down to the subframe. I also agree on the trans tower

[FastCougar]

I'm down for a couple of days while I wait on parts from BAT, Summit Racing (header paint & wrap) & Bill Jenkins. Progress should resume this weekend. I'm going to start to assemble the ground control's onto the Koni's. When I drop the engine/trans into the car, I will be completely replacing everything on the front/rear suspensions, boxing the rear sway bar mounts, etc.