Interest in Supercharger setup

[bensenvill]

I would be highly interested.

under one condition... you rethink the whole coolant tank strategy. the WR tank needs a pressure releaf valve... I think you'll see why once you get some miles on it.

[GrandMasterKhan]

why dont you just say why instead of leaving us in mystery?

[RodneyBur]

It needs a relief valve because the radiator pushes water and steam in it as the car warms up. If the cap is sealed tight it will cause pressure in the overflow and not allow the hot coolant/steam to enter. The pressure must escape somewhere and could cause hoses to burst, leaks in the radiator, or blow cap off of over flow tank. It really depends on how much pressure is in the system though. If there is no pressure in the overflow tank it could cause all the coolant to flow out from radiator and coolant hoses into the tank (ie removing the cap when engine is warm). The system must be pressurized and create an adequate equilibrium depending on operating temp and pressures.

I'm sure the WR tank has some sort of relief in it. Perhaps on the cap like older radiators?

[bensenvill]

Originally Posted by RodneyBur

I'm sure the WR tank has some sort of relief in it. Perhaps on the cap like older radiators?

no there is absolutely NO releaf mechanism whatsoever... zero. and it builds up a tremendous amount of pressure. that puts alot of stress on the wields [which are good wields but nothing I would gamble my engine on] and the hoses... something is going to break.

I'll post photos sometime this weekend but my WR tank is very bowed on top. previous owner had 1500 miles on it [and blew his engine], I had about 700 on it before I pulled it.

there is also no way to use the coolant level sensor [its a float valve with the float mechanism built into the stock shell], so that sensor hole in the tank is pointless, and you have to deal with the coolant light permanently being on.

also the tank doesnt have baffling on it... I dunno I could go on about this but when you break it down its a poor substitute for the stock one, and I didnt feel I needed to rehash this because its been covered lately in 2 other threads.


combine all this with adding a significant amount of power to the system and your asking for trouble.
[blackcoog, I love your work and your effort _and openness with sharing your buildup_ really is impressive. this has been my one and only complaint/concern... please dont take it as me trying to bust your balls]

[RodneyBur]

I don't see the coolant light as being a big deal since you could easily fool the sensor and get the light turned off. Maybe you could even get it turned off with the SCT software? I don't know. It would be better if you were able to get the sensor into the WR tank, but I don't know if it is possible. I haven't torn into the stock tank or really looked at the sensor.

I also don't think that the baffles are a big deal either. Basically they would just keep the coolant towards the bottom of the tank more and keep it from sloshing around as much. The system only pulls in coolant from the overflow tank when cooling (car is off). Unless you park on a hill with the front alot higher than the back, it shouldn't pull any air into the system. If it does pull air in then the air should be forced back out after one or two cycles, maybe sooner. You could also keep the tank a little fuller to keep that from happening or perhaps even put a baffle inside it.

The main thing I would be concerned about would be the pressure. If it doesn't have some sort of pressure valve then it would definately put a strain on parts of the system. Mainly the hoses, seems, radiator, etc. Excess pressure may even cause issues with putting a strain on the water pump since it would have a bigger force pushing back the propellers.

I don't own a WR tank so don't know if it does have a pressure valve. I just didn't see why they would sell one without the valve. I will say unless those are really ****ty welds then the hoses would probably go before the tank does.

You could always stick with your stock tank and move it or use another aftermarket coolant tank like James and KustomCougar did.

[muntus]

This might put me into forced induction.

[Blackcoog]

no there is absolutely NO releaf mechanism whatsoever... zero. and it builds up a tremendous amount of pressure. that puts alot of stress on the wields [which are good wields but nothing I would gamble my engine on] and the hoses... something is going to break.

I'll post photos sometime this weekend but my WR tank is very bowed on top. previous owner had 1500 miles on it [and blew his engine], I had about 700 on it before I pulled it.

there is also no way to use the coolant level sensor [its a float valve with the float mechanism built into the stock shell], so that sensor hole in the tank is pointless, and you have to deal with the coolant light permanently being on.

also the tank doesnt have baffling on it... I dunno I could go on about this but when you break it down its a poor substitute for the stock one, and I didnt feel I needed to rehash this because its been covered lately in 2 other threads.


combine all this with adding a significant amount of power to the system and your asking for trouble.
[blackcoog, I love your work and your effort _and openness with sharing your buildup_ really is impressive. this has been my one and only complaint/concern... please dont take it as me trying to bust your balls]

After flushing my cooling system to get the gunk out the modified WR tank has worked perfectly. I have been driving it stock this whole time with the modified WR tank. I do agree a cap with pressure relief is needed I just need to find a source for the end the cap screws onto. The pressure relief is not something that should be used often though. It normally only comes into play when you are overheating. If I did put together a tank it would be from scratch not a WR tank. They should have used thicker aluminum with their tanks.

The piping is another issue. Who is willing to hack into their car for that? It was two 3.5" holes and widening of the windshield washer tank hole.

[nadthomas]

Well, since we have to cut a whole just for a CAI, I don't think it would be a big deal for anyone serious about going FI to cut one more and enlarge another. Just as long as I know where to cut, I'm cool with it.

[bensenvill]

Originally Posted by Blackcoog

After flushing my cooling system to get the gunk out the modified WR tank has worked perfectly. I have been driving it stock this whole time with the modified WR tank. I do agree a cap with pressure relief is needed I just need to find a source for the end the cap screws onto. The pressure relief is not something that should be used often though. It normally only comes into play when you are overheating. If I did put together a tank it would be from scratch not a WR tank. They should have used thicker aluminum with their tanks.

The piping is another issue. Who is willing to hack into their car for that? It was two 3.5" holes and widening of the windshield washer tank hole.

ya I've been looking for a way to integrate a pressure relief valve... dont get me wrong, the tank has potental, but theres a number of issues I need to address with it before it ever goes back in my car.

I have no problem drilling holes.

[shadowfox28]

im looking to spend $2,000 -$2,500(not including a chip and tune) on my S/c setup. If you can produce a kit for something in that price range, with the fmic,bov,compressor,and piping.... i'll buy your product.