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Old 05-12-2008, 02:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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The race to Fest!

Looking to install 2 amplifiers before Fest. One 800W RMS mono, and a 400W RMS 4 Channel. So far I have the battery relocation kit from Steeda, which I plan on using for a dual battery, rather than a relocation. This will be hooked to a carpc, with a 5.1 sound card. So the 4 channel amp, will have 4 independant channels. And the sub will have it's own output.

This is what I received from Steeda. What else do I need?

Quoted from the GB thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteedaSVT View Post
I am offering 0/1 gauge battery relocations to the contour guys on CEG and figured I would offer them on here.

The link to the CEG Group buy: Battery Relocation kit - CEG Forums

This is what the kit includes:
20ft of red 0gauge power wire
4ft of black 0gauge power wire
Anl fuse holder with fuse(250amp)
25ft of split loom to protect the 0gauge
2 battery terminals ***If you would rather have side mount terminals let me know (either gold or platium depends on availbility)
2 0gauge set screw heavy duty ring terminals (either gold or platium depends on availbility)
3 0gauge crimp connectors
Fused distorbution block with 4 outputs (either gold or platium depends on availbility)
4 60amp agu fuses
10 wire ties with rings to screw into place if needed
What else will I need to power the amps? What can I use? I've been trying to lay it all out and figure it out, but i'm just not to sure?
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

ya I dunno, good question, I also picked up that kit from the GB. Its still sitting in my attic but the time is coming that I really need to get it installed.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

since you have 2 batteries, you might want to consider an isolator setup.
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Old 05-12-2008, 04:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

If you use two identical batteries then an isolator is not required, but I generally recommend one. However, with a 0/1 setup you're going to have a hard time finding an isolator that can allow the amperage draw-through. I used to run an MBR-70 from Orion, but even that only let 70amps through and cost upwards of $500 brand new.

If you run dual Optima's (or another high-quality SEALED battery) you can simply wire them up direct.

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Old 05-12-2008, 04:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

Would I actually gain any benefit from dual battery with the power i'd be drawing? Or should I just toss the stock battery and throw in an optima or something?
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Old 05-12-2008, 05:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teebs View Post
Would I actually gain any benefit from dual battery with the power i'd be drawing? Or should I just toss the stock battery and throw in an optima or something?
not really.
Like E1 said, you would have to have an exactly same brand batteries to have it hooked up without an isolator. In fact, they recommend that they are exact same age.

when you have an isolator, batteries dont have to be a same brand.
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

I thought the point of the isolator was to keep one battery able to start your car while you use the other battery to run your system with the engine off? It has nothing to do with the types of batteries installed...

At least, that's how the isolator in my camper works... (though you can substitute "the 12 volt appliances and lights" for "system")
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

Quote:
Originally Posted by skater View Post
I thought the point of the isolator was to keep one battery able to start your car while you use the other battery to run your system with the engine off? It has nothing to do with the types of batteries installed...

At least, that's how the isolator in my camper works... (though you can substitute "the 12 volt appliances and lights" for "system")
+1
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

Quote:
Originally Posted by skater View Post
I thought the point of the isolator was to keep one battery able to start your car while you use the other battery to run your system with the engine off? It has nothing to do with the types of batteries installed...

At least, that's how the isolator in my camper works... (though you can substitute "the 12 volt appliances and lights" for "system")
you are absolutely right but you forgot to read my post.
i said the batteries have to be identical if he wants to run it without an isolator and hooked up together.
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Old 05-13-2008, 12:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: The race to Fest!

Momo is correct. If you use different batteries w/o an isolator you risk having a discharge or feedback, thus killing the entire car + system. Isolators work two-fold, first they allow you to drain the system battery w/o killing the starting system for the car, and second they allow you to isolate any stereo issues from the main power system of the car.

Quote:
Would I actually gain any benefit from dual battery with the power i'd be drawing?
Most likely yes. Here's a quick test, look at all the amps you'll be installing and add up the total amperage of all of the fuses. This will give you a MAX amperage draw. The Cougar puts out something like 70-90 amps, with something like a 20 amp draw for the car. If the amps can pull more than the car can produce then a second battery will help, but it will not solve the issue. The only solution is to rewind the alt, and add more storage capacity. You're into the realm of higher end systems once you start talking 2 or more amps, and thus your costs increase exponentially.

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