The race to Fest!

[skater]

Originally Posted by MOMO

you are absolutely right but you forgot to read my post.
i said the batteries have to be identical if he wants to run it without an isolator and hooked up together.

I read the ****ing post. I'm asking a question about it.

Originally Posted by EternalOne

Momo is correct. If you use different batteries w/o an isolator you risk having a discharge or feedback, thus killing the entire car + system. Isolators work two-fold, first they allow you to drain the system battery w/o killing the starting system for the car, and second they allow you to isolate any stereo issues from the main power system of the car.

I think I see what you're saying - power can flow from the engine electrical system to the secondary electrical system, but not from the secondary to the primary (essentially there is a diode in there)? That's cool - I didn't know they did that. I've never tested that on my camper, but it does match what I've heard: Someone with a camper like mine said they jumped their engine off the deep cycle battery using jumper cables (which is funny on a couple levels), and presumably the cables wouldn't have been necessary if the isolator allowed power to flow back in the other direction.

[Teebs]

The mono amp has 2 30A fuses, the 4ch has a 40A fuse. So I could benefit from dual battery, but from a cost vs benefit point of view it may not be the greatest investment?

Isn't the alt 130amp? And 70amp at idle? Or am I mistaken?

[LinkMan]

Originally Posted by Teebs

Isn't the alt 130amp? And 70amp at idle? Or am I mistaken?

When I was diagnosing a charging issue on my Cougar, I used a clamp-on ammeter, and at idle with headlights + foglights on, cabin fan on high, A/C on (which also turns the engine cooling fans on), as well as the stereo/sub playing, it was pulling around 75 Amps, give or take.

So you're not mistaken.

[MOMO]

somebody is hostile today.

[skater]

[EternalOne]

Originally Posted by Teebs

The mono amp has 2 30A fuses, the 4ch has a 40A fuse. So I could benefit from dual battery, but from a cost vs benefit point of view it may not be the greatest investment?

Isn't the alt 130amp? And 70amp at idle? Or am I mistaken?

Right, so at max pull your stereo can pull down 100 amps, while the car only produces between 70-130amps (lower if the alt is slowly dying).

Originally Posted by LinkMan

When I was diagnosing a charging issue on my Cougar, I used a clamp-on ammeter, and at idle with headlights + foglights on, cabin fan on high, A/C on (which also turns the engine cooling fans on), as well as the stereo/sub playing, it was pulling around 75 Amps, give or take.

So you're not mistaken.

Right, except the car pulls 75amps, and his stereo can pull a max of 100amps -- over what the Cougar can produce. Since it's "close" a dual battery would be the best bet here, as the times when it's pulling more the batteries can compensate, while times with low draw can recharge the system.

E1

[MOMO]

Originally Posted by skater

[LostRacer]

settle down kids

[LinkMan]

Originally Posted by EternalOne

Right, except the car pulls 75amps, and his stereo can pull a max of 100amps -- over what the Cougar can produce. Since it's "close" a dual battery would be the best bet here, as the times when it's pulling more the batteries can compensate, while times with low draw can recharge the system.

E1

I was only commenting on his "at idle" question. That's why I didn't quote the part of the question concerning the dual battery.

[kwg2371]

I'm gonna jump in here for a second, I'm running 2 mono block amps for my L7's and I keep fryin my ALT both amps have 3 25amp fuses= 150 amps total I have a powercap that is rated 24 volt surge protection and is 2 farad the anl fuse is 300amp so in other words ineed to tinker with the ALT to make it store/ make more power?

What if i was to put another battery in the is the same as what I have+ have the powercap on?? would that solve any thing with out messing with the ALT