INTAKES by CLAYMORE (large pics)

[ClaymoreWW]

As some of you have seen, on here and in person, I have made up some "short ram" and "long ram" intakes. I have a few sets made up and ready for sale. I have tested each style on my own car - each works well - just like any other SRI. However, I personally think there are some benefits to mine ;)

1. my intakes are CLEAR - they make a visual statement when people see them.

2. the diameter of mine is 3 inches. This provides a constant diameter from the filter to the throttle body.

The SHORT intake can replace a stock rubber part, just like any other SRI. The LONG intake not only replaces the rubber intake tube, but also the MAF assembly (you will need to remove your MAF sensor and install it on my clear tube).

I am offering both of these in two style: basic and full kits. The BASIC kits are for people that already have an SRI and do not need the couplers and filters and clamps - this includes anyone who wants to add this to an existing CAI system. The FULL kits contain all of the pieces necessary to replace a stock air system. All kits include smaller clear attaching hoses for additional clear effect.

I CURRENTLY HAVE SIX SHORT SETS and ONE (maybe two) LONG SETS.
I can get more supplies, but it may take a couple weeks.
Keep in mind these are hand crafted and are not mass-produced-perfect. The Long tubes have hand molded MAF mounting pads.
Instructions will be included.
I do NOT have CAI extensions at this time.
PM me for payment details (PayPal preferred). All prices INCLUDE shipping to US.

SHORT RAM INTAKE - 6 inches long

BASIC KIT (to replace existing SRI) - $35 shipped
1 - Short Intake
1 - large clear hose
2 - small hose clamps
1 - small clear hose


FULL KIT (to replace stock pieces) - $55 shipped
1 – Short Intake
1 - large clear hose
2 - small hose clamps
1 - small clear hose
1 – reducer coupler
1 – straight coupler
4 – large hose clamps
1 – MAF adapter
1 – cone filter

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/SRI-basic.jpg

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/SRI-full-1.jpg

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/SRI-full-2.jpg


LONG RAM INTAKE – REPLACES INTAKE PIECES AND MAF - 12 inches long

BASIC KIT (to replace existing SRI) - $45 shipped
1 - Long Intake
1 - large clear hose
2 - small hose clamps
1 - small clear hose


FULL KIT (to replace stock pieces) - $75 shipped
1 – Long Intake
1 - large clear hose
2 - small hose clamps
1 - small clear hose
1 – reducer coupler
2 – large hose clamps
1 – cone filter

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/LRI-basic.jpg

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/LRI-full-1.jpg

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/LRI-full-2.jpg


Thanks for looking,

--george

[happsmack]

red x's!!!!


EDIT: must have been the work computers. works now

[azbobbybooshay10]

I see them. :shrug:

[jrak123]

Hey guys I have seen these in person and they look great! George did an amazing job putting these together. By the way the Lexan tube has much better heat rejection properties over the thin aluminum tube.

[Excelcier]

I also can vouch for how nice these look. I'm considering one myself.

[scrupul0us]

i would like to see how the MAF is adapted/installed to your tube... i would DEF be interested in buying one

also:
-how rigid are the coupler connections to the tubes... are they going to be prone to snapping off or get brittle over time?
-how structurally sound is the SRI... will it crack easily?

[jrak123]

BUMP for a quality product.

I can say that Leaxn tube is very good in hot and cold weather

[Jorgen]

I also can vouch for how nice these look. I'm considering one myself.


then you could modify it and mount a few LED is the bottom or along the bottom could look pretty bad ass

[scrupul0us]

then you could modify it and mount a few LED is the bottom or along the bottom could look pretty bad ass

for Ron and I thatspretty much a given :)

[ClaymoreWW]

i would like to see how the MAF is adapted/installed to your tube... i would DEF be interested in buying one

also:
-how rigid are the coupler connections to the tubes... are they going to be prone to snapping off or get brittle over time?
-how structurally sound is the SRI... will it crack easily?

The MAF is adapted by recreating the mounting area. You will need to unbolt the sensor from the stock MAF assembly. This requires a #20 Safety TORX bit. You don't need to keep the Safety TORX screws, as I provide Allen Head Cap Screws to mount the MAF sensor. The mounting pad is releived to fit the existing MAF sensor structure. Just above the MAF mounting pad is a mounting location for the IAT sensor - with a insert-and-twist mount method - similar to stock.

concerning the hose fitting and their attachment; on my Short prototype, I used "normal" epoxy. I had no problems excepting when the items were put understress...the small one did break loose. However, I found a plastic/acryilic specific epoxy that I now use that I anticipate will perform much better.

The strength of the overall tube...it is plastic, not metal (no, its not transparent aluminum ;) ). By nature, it is going to be sensitive to excess stress. But my first prototype was in place from September through July and of course it is subject to high engine temps. There has been NO deformation of the item. I do caution that the clamps should not be overtightened, just in general principle.

Overall, I am confident that the assembly will endure NORMAL operational situations..that is, it will be fine once installed. Constant removal will naturally increase the possibility that you will damage it. It isn't fragile like glass, but it isn't durable like cast iron - a bit of common sense should be followed.

I have thought about lighting options, but I'm no electronics guru. If I were to do an LED mod to this I would simply (and carefully) drill holes in which the LED would fit and secure them with clear RTV Silicone.

--george

[scrupul0us]

whats the price for JUST the long tube

also.. can u post an installed pic please :)

i know, i know... im a PITA

[ClaymoreWW]

no hoses, no clamps? ... um basically, I was tossing in those for free - but say $42 shipped for only the long tube.

well, I thought I had posted a installed pic in another post...but...

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/LRI-04s.jpg

and another...

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/gallery/main.php/d/68-1/20060805-016.jpg

[scrupul0us]

Just bought a long tube, clamps and couplers!

[Qdog002]

Tight! How is the MAF installed? Upside down? Pics of these specificly if you dont mind.

[ClaymoreWW]

Yes, the MAF sensor is unbolted from the stock assembly and mounted on the bottom of the long tube (short tube kits still use the stock MAF assembly). In this pic you can see it sticking into the cylinder.

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/LRI-02close.jpg

--george

[bobrobw]

where are you in MI?, I'm in Jackson

[DemonSVT]

Yes, the MAF sensor is unbolted from the stock assembly and mounted on the bottom of the long tube (short tube kits still use the stock MAF assembly). In this pic you can see it sticking into the cylinder.

http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/cougar/LRI-02close.jpg

--george
Are you stupid or just insane?

You are telling people to pull the CALIBRATED MAF electronics out of the housing and put them into this tube. :banghead:

I'll stop right there because that is enough to destroy any credibility you had... :crazy:

[Yofavcracka]

damn you claymore.....make one for the 2.0l! lol, it looks great man

[wadespencer99]

Are you stupid or just insane?

You are telling people to pull the CALIBRATED MAF electronics out of the housing and put them into this tube. :banghead:

I'll stop right there because that is enough to destroy any credibility you had... :crazy:


PM'd ya, :)

[Arhethia]

Can you say dentonation/pinging wow asking for a world of trouble!!! Unless you get a dyno tune for this setup, this is not safe!!

[scrupul0us]

id say unless u talk to the people who are running them and see if they are having issues then u cant really shake a stick at what he has goin on here

thats not to say what demon and arhethia are saying isnt/cant be true... im guessing your comments are based on the fact that the MAF is calibrated for its diameter and it is now being placed into a larger diameter tube... correct?

[ClaymoreWW]

In response to DemonSVT and Arhethia and in an effort to defend my so-called credibility…

I am not an engine or engine computer expert, nor am I a physicist, nor to I have the coding of the ECU to examine, but yes, I considered this and was concerned by this (the removal of the MAF sensor from its housing). Here is my logic, my observations and what I concluded.

Logic why this setup is not harmful: Obviously, to maintain proper air-to-fuel ratio, the computer must know what quantity of air is coming in and therefore how much fuel to squirt into the engine. The engine does this by measuring the air in two ways (as far as I know): Incoming Air Temperature and Mass Air Flow. The first measures the temperature and the second measures the quantity of the air flowing through the intake passage. In analyzing the MAF housing, it can be seen that the passage is tapered from larger than 3 inches in diameter to less than 3 inches in diameter. In addition, the MAF sensor itself is within a tube that is approximately 3/8 of an inch in diameter (most of this is not a cylinder, as one portion has a flat side. I assume the width of this sensor flow path is taken into account in the calculation of the air volume flowing, - but maybe not. My tube is 3 inch outside diameter and 2 ¾ inside diameter. Another assumption is that this internal diameter is “close enough” to the tapered cylinder of the stock MAF housing.

Why do I say “close enough”? Because in my estimation, the difference in the diameter will affect the calculation of “how much air” much less than the temperature variable. Remember, our computers have to be able to compensate for temperature ranges from lets say -20 F to 150 F (or higher – what IS the average under-hood temperature in the summer? Anyone?) These temperature ranges will affect the volume of air MUCH more than a few millimeters difference in the diameter of the tube. If the computer can compensate for 200 degrees or more temperature ranges, it certainly can compensate for the minor differences in the MAF housing.

Comments on PINGING: I may be one of a very few people that have done engine mods that can actually hear the pinging of the engine because while I have modified the INTAKE (including SVT TB and UIM) I have the stock exhaust – my car is quiet and I can hear when the engine pings. I have ONE CEL: High Idle speed (I forget the code number) and I have had that since I installed the UIM. I do hear pinging – when I try to accelerate while RPM is in the 1500-2000 range. I think anyone will agree that this is normal for any car. I have heard completely stock cars ping much more than my car pings. I am sure that if anyone reading this tries to accelerate in that speed range, their engine will ping, too. In fact, I believe this driving pattern is NOT recommended by manufacturers (i.e Ford).

In short, I am relatively confident (until someone can prove my setup is “bad”) that what I offer will not cause engine or ECU problems. I think it could be argued (assuming the computer tuning is not adversely affected) that this long tube setup is better for the engine. My car now has a 3 inch tube running from the air filter to the throttle body and includes one 45 degree bend and one 90 degree bend. This means there is no change of diameter, many fewer spots where turbulence will be created due to sudden changes and sharp points in that diameter,

Of course, we all know the shape of the internal cavity from the factory is less than optimal. In fact, it seriously compromises performance in favor of convenience. There are a wide variety of SRIs and CAIs and combinations thereof and all of those will affect how air flows from the filter to the throttle body and the MAF must account for and adjust for each of these situations. I know there has been speculation that the removal of the internal structure of the MAF housing “could” be detrimental, but has that been proven? What I have done is simply along those lines.

Technically, I would make a semi-educated guess that the 3 inch diameter of this setup and of existing CAIs is probably less-than-optimal for the 2.5 liter. I think we would probably get better performance by going with a smaller internal diameter to increase velocity of the air going into the motor and therefore increasing throttle response. However, I should state that I observe MUCH better throttle response with my current setup than I did before – but most of that was observed when I went to the SVT intake and TB.

In summary, I am relatively sure that any differences with this MAF location and the stock location are well within the uncertainties and compensation abilities of the software in the ECU. I do not pretend that this is the PERFECT setup – and I will even offer that if you are concerned about top-end, high-rev, push-the-limits-of-the-code situations, you had better tune for that. I never offered this as a "race" solution to intake issues.

--george

[jrak123]

Better call AEM too, demon, because that make kits just like this, well not "just like this" but they make intakes where you put the MAF on their intake tube.

People get one idea stuck in their heads and that is the only solution. Wise up people, change is good. just because you didn't do it don't knock something you know nothing about.

[Qdog002]

You are telling people to pull the CALIBRATED MAF electronics out of the housing and put them into this tube. :banghead:


I was wondering the same thing. In the stock MAF, isnt there that little funnel thing in the center that funnels air?? Wouldn't the fact that this is not present in this clear tube affect anything?

[scrupul0us]

I was wondering the same thing. In the stock MAF, isnt there that little funnel thing in the center that funnels air?? Wouldn't the fact that this is not present in this clear tube affect anything?
i believe that was covered in a thread discussing the optimization of the MAF

[Qdog002]

i believe that was covered in a thread discussing the optimization of the MAF

Well can I get a brief summary?

[StealthyWeasel]

Just bought a SRI $55 kit, I can't wait! I chose this kit because I'd love to support members with handmade products :)

I also got it because I believe that plastic will have great heat-rejection qualities (as Jrak said) thus an effect step to helping against heatsoak.

I have some silver spray paint that im painting my RSTB with, do you think I need hi-temp engine paint to paint the plastic piece or will my standard spray paint work?

[Arhethia]

In response to DemonSVT and Arhethia and in an effort to defend my so-called credibility…

Comments on PINGING: I may be one of a very few people that have done engine mods that can actually hear the pinging of the engine because while I have modified the INTAKE (including SVT TB and UIM) I have the stock exhaust – my car is quiet and I can hear when the engine pings. I have ONE CEL: High Idle speed (I forget the code number) and I have had that since I installed the UIM. I do hear pinging – when I try to accelerate while RPM is in the 1500-2000 range. I think anyone will agree that this is normal for any car. I have heard completely stock cars ping much more than my car pings. I am sure that if anyone reading this tries to accelerate in that speed range, their engine will ping, too. In fact, I believe this driving pattern is NOT recommended by manufacturers (i.e Ford).
--george

Sorry this will be the last time i post. Becuase i don't want to create problems for your group buy.

Pinging is when the engine sparks there is air and fuel that cause an explosion. The air and fuel are even to create a proper explosion. When hte 2 are changed the car runs poorly. When there is more air which is in this case. The car can not explode properly becuase as the explosion occurs the fuel burns up two quickly becuase there is too much air. So the spark burns the fuel and air is still left. Causeing the spark to ping inside the engine.

The probelm is your changing the flow characteristics of the car. Since the maf bar is removed the A/F changes. Which in return adds more air, but the computer doesn't compensate for more fuel. Leaner creates better gas mileage and sometimes more power. But this intake will make you car tooo lean which creates problems.

The concern i have here since i did this back in 1996. For the person who siad don't dog the person who did this becuaes you didn't. Can stay out of this who can not present important information other than arguing pointless thoughts.

The vehicle becomes lean in running. Which in turn starts to ping. Pining is not normal. Do not beleive it is. It is dangerous to the motor. Pinging will created a hole in your piston over time. Which is not safe. If you have pining from the factory you take you car back to them they will reflash your computer. That is why we have a handful of different codes. SO each car have the right code for the right stock tune.

Yes you will feel a difference but it is not worth having you engine ping. I would rather be safe then sorry.

Now like i, i bought a pro-m, its calibrated to have a larger diameter and it is safe for my car. Many others have gone this route.

Yes aem does create a tube for other cars. Becuase they check the flow of A/F and saw it will fell not short of running lean on there test mule they used. So that product is okay to use.


Just a warning, if you buy the intake get a tune for it.

if you buy and it pings remove right away!!!

Simple and safe. good day guys!!

[scrupul0us]

got mine today... thanks claymore!

[ClaymoreWW]

not a problem...let me know if you have any questions.

--george

[soldier989]

My car is the black one you see there in his pics. I may be the second person to ever own one. I have had it for almost 2 weeks and have not noticed any abnormal engine noises, or performance decreases. My CEL has not posted, im getting roughly the same gas mileage, and again I do not hear any funky noises other than what I heard before.

I like it, I will continue to use it. If something goes wrong, im sure we will discover it before something major happens.

[ClaymoreWW]

thanks brett...yes, you were #2.

--george

[s.wilson]

I just wanted to post because I bought one of these, and I'm very happy with it. The kit was very well put together, I picked it up locally, and George did the bulk of the work installing it, and was very friendly. I would deal with him again in a heartbeat, and look forward to seeing him when I finally make it to a meet!

[Echoman]

I'm just posting this because of my past experience with this. I'm not at all debating whether this is a good product or not. I actuall love the idea of not having that reducing coupler for the MAF. I had an extra MAF so I cut out the plastic airfoil column thing around the actual sensor inside. I started stalling out around turns and threw engine codes like crazy. As soon as I put the stock Maf housing back inline (same sensor) Everything went back to normal. I was told by Dewayne at Logon Motorsports that even changing the clock position or proximity of the sensor from the TB can jack up your tune. That might just be my specific case associated with my tune.

[soldier989]

A month later after my previous post and still no problems that i can blame the tube on.

I am shooting out mad amounts of gas from the top of my engine, but its gotta be a injector or line issue. Should be fixed today, i just found out about this today.

[StealthyWeasel]

about a month later i've occured problems with the 55 dollar kit, the bottom T-fitting does NOT stay in, i've had many stalling problems with this. However they are fixable. This is my unbiased opinion for info only, im marginally happy with the kit.

[THEKID]

VERY clean looking kit. It looks really good installed.

[AnthonyP]

Are there any pics of the SRI and Long Ram kits installed NOT in a CAI application?

[ClaymoreWW]

Shelby's (s.wilson) install was an SRI with no CAI - but I don't have pics - he might toss one up. For the non-CAI install just imagine a cone filter (as shown in post #1) where the elbow is.

I haven't had a single proble because of the long tube. I don't think that Brett has either (soldier989). I think we really discussed the "possible" problems with the long tube to excess - maybe someone can definitively show there is an issue?

And for the fragility of the assembly, I talked at length about that in post #10 in this thread. Yes, if you treat it roughly, it will break - after all it is a rigid plastic, not a forgiving flexible rubber or a durable metal. I know of only my early issue with the t-fitting and stealthyweasel with the same. Proper care of the item has kept mine from breaking - I have been using either the short or long for a combined year now.

Thanks for the interest - some of both styles are still available, if anyone wants.

--george

[s.wilson]

Shelby's (s.wilson) install was an SRI with no CAI - but I don't have pics - he might toss one up. For the non-CAI install just imagine a cone filter (as shown in post #1) where the elbow is.

I got the MAF adapter and new filter on today (claymoreWW knows... everyone else.... don't ask haha). It's dark out now, but I will edit this post tomorrow with a picture of the short ram intake installed on my car. I am very happy with the install. George's kit is VERY thorough, and complete. I could not be any more impressed.

[AnthonyP]

So did you get the $55 or $75 kit?