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View Full Version : FS: SCR LCA's, Harness Bars, Rear Control Bars


StangKiller
08-05-2006, 05:26 PM
Star City Racing (StangKiller's New Company)

Lower Control Arms $325 plus shipping . (2 sold, 1 in stock) (2 week lead time after that)

Harness Bar $250 plus shipping (2 in stock)(4 week lead time)

Rear Toe Arms $125 plus shipping.(0 in stock) (2 week lead time)

(these are powder coated black, same price whether powder coated or not)

StangKiller
08-05-2006, 05:40 PM
Pics Added, sorry

NVS SVT
08-05-2006, 09:29 PM
Very nice products you have there. I wish there was a harness bar for the contour:( .

Aaron

Danef150
08-05-2006, 10:03 PM
I have a few low res camera phone pics of my arms insalled and the alignment sheet. May i add that the front LCA's almost completely eliminated wheel hop even on a car with bad trans mounts. Im no alignment pro so i dont know what the numbers mean but my car does not pull nor do the tires wear funny. Hope this helps Mike

PREDATOR
08-05-2006, 11:33 PM
Can you get me a price quote for shipping on the lca's and rear control arms...

Edit: 79605 Thanks :thumbsup:

GrandMasterKhan
08-06-2006, 02:44 AM
count me in on a pair of those front lower control arms for sure. I get paid on thursday.

jaged
08-06-2006, 06:34 PM
how thick are the rear control bars?

fordrule
08-07-2006, 10:14 AM
i can wait the 4 weeks lead time man. lca's and rear control bars. shipping to 31407


no rush i am in korea man

probally get the harness bar when i get my seats.

Qdog002
08-07-2006, 11:29 AM
What is the performance benefits of all these things?? Can someone please explain to me please? Thanks And how worth it is it for everyday driving?

jrak123
08-07-2006, 11:35 AM
it stiffens up the ride, make the car more responsive in corners. The front LCA's will help reduce wheel hop.

hotcat
08-07-2006, 08:35 PM
How much ride quality do you have to sacrifice for these front and rear control arms? What kind of adjustments do you gain with these LCA's installed?

BigBalledOX
08-07-2006, 08:39 PM
StangKiller's stuff is TOP NOTCH. Whether anyone thinks my endorsement is worth a **** or not, its a part of my suspension and for a very good reason.

So . . . any possibility on some traction bars? :cover:

Blackcoog
08-08-2006, 08:32 AM
Do the LCA's have camber adjustment? That would be really sweet if they did. Then we can get rid of these cheap camber kits that are out there.

BigBalledOX
08-08-2006, 02:47 PM
Yes, yes they do sir. :)

bensenvill
08-08-2006, 03:21 PM
if your interested in the LCA's you need to check if you have a 2-bolt LCA or a 4-bolt LCA on your car.

[later cougars if I am not mistaken are 4-bolts]... stangkilla's are 2 bolt.


I can also attest that these things are the shizznit.

[also I beleive the correct terminology is rear toe arms not rear control bars... that is assuming that you are intending these for the rear most mounting point]

racerx
08-09-2006, 08:03 PM
I am interested in a harness bar.

SpookSVT
08-09-2006, 09:36 PM
The front LCA's will help reduce wheel hop.

How is that? The solid hime (sp?) joint? I have a boxed 4bolt LCA with solid delrin bushings, or is it the tubular construction that keeps the control arm from twisting?

jrak123
08-09-2006, 09:40 PM
it's just much stiffer then the stock ones, much less flex

BigBalledOX
08-09-2006, 09:41 PM
Also, if anyone wants pictures of the harness bar IN the car, I can post them up.

StangKiller
08-09-2006, 11:32 PM
The only thing I can say about reducing wheel hop is that it reduces the front to back motion the wheel can take and any flex in the arm due to torque. I never advertise that it reduces wheel hop.

I do have a traction bar setup on my car now, still in the testing stages. It has taken the wheel hop entirely out of my car. I can say this for those interested, I will produce them when I have enough real interest. (that is only when I have 5-6 people prepaid for them, there is just not enough money in it for me otherwise, and just for those who want to try I will not let any pics out of it (already had someone try to copy my arms)).

BigBalledOX
08-09-2006, 11:39 PM
I do have a traction bar setup on my car now, still in the testing stages. It has taken the wheel hop entirely out of my car. I can say this for those interested, I will produce them when I have enough real interest. (that is only when I have 5-6 people prepaid for them, there is just not enough money in it for me otherwise, and just for those who want to try I will not let any pics out of it (already had someone try to copy my arms)).

Got a ballpark figure on costs? Consider one set sold already man.

JebHoge
08-10-2006, 08:45 AM
Yes, yes they do sir. :)

OOOOOOO....OK, just need 'em for the older Contours now.

StangKiller
08-10-2006, 10:18 PM
If there are that many older contours interested, I need 5+ buyers at around $425 a set plus shipping to make it worth it. If you get that many I can get them out in about 4-6 weeks.

StangKiller
08-13-2006, 03:56 PM
An additional 4 sets of control arms are going to the powdercoater on Tuesday for those that are interested.

Y2Kat
08-13-2006, 05:26 PM
3 questions:
Harness bar shipping to 37214
can you post a pic of the harness bar in car...showing the mounting points
what would you charge to have one chromed instead of power coated black

StangKiller
08-16-2006, 07:34 AM
I do not have the capability of chroming where I am at currently. Sorry for the inconvenience. I can ship them out with no coating though.

scrupul0us
08-16-2006, 09:20 AM
whats involved in installing the LCA's?

bensenvill
08-16-2006, 12:16 PM
whats involved in installing the LCA's?


removing the old LCA's.

only thing thats a bit of a pain is the front bolt on the drivers side. its blocked by the tranny, so you have to unblolt the tranny mount, jack the tranny up a bit, cut the bolt out, and reinstall a new one upsidedown. maybe there is a better way but thats how me and jaged did it the other week [you can see photos of that in the suspension goodness thread in the pics folder]

GI8U2racing
08-16-2006, 12:22 PM
Man, I hope there's a better way, isn't there anyone? Maybe is MTX different?

crazyoldcougar
08-16-2006, 02:42 PM
Man, I hope there's a better way, isn't there anyone? Maybe is MTX different?
i have an MTX...not much different install though...

you have to undo all the bolts around the suspension pretty much...other then the lower strut bolt...it can stay tight..

undo the tie rod and kinda move it out of the way, dont turn it in any way though...

undo the pinch bolt on the ball joint and hammer/ pry it out...

i also removed the rotors aswell...it just made life easier...not bashing my nuckles off them...

all i did to get the front bolt out from under the tranny was to use two appropriate wrenchs, undo it as much as you can...then hold the top /head of the bolt with a set of visegrips and begin cutting the head off with a hack saw...i used one of them chessy blade holders as oppsed to an actual hack saw...once the head is off it will fall though the hole...no need to touch the transmission or its mounts...

the hardest thing i found trying to install new control arms was moving the strut out of the way enough without pulling the CV joint out of its socket..judging by the size and shape of Stangkillas LCA's they look like they may slide into the subframe member a little easier then the factory ones..

getting the bushings into the right spot is a serious PITA...that is because you can really only get the LCA into the spot from an upward angle and the bushings have to be prefectly vertical to fit into the subfframe...doesnt take a genius to figure out thatif your going in on an angle they obvioulsy arent vertical...i just used a very large broad sloted screwdriver to gently tap the bushing vertical...

overall it should take about 45 minutes to an hour per side Jack up to Jack down..

StangKiller
08-16-2006, 09:31 PM
They are alot easier to install than the stock ones because you can bolt the control arm up without the ball joint attached to the arm. Than you can attach the ball joint to the rotor side, jack the rotor side up into the control arm and bolt the ball joint to the arm. Took me about 30 min each side, but I have a MTX.

StangKiller
08-23-2006, 05:43 PM
Bump.

Come on people. Some comments on why no one wants to buy these?

Topik
08-24-2006, 01:55 PM
What inside lining are you using on those heim joints and could someone special order these from you with zerk fitting heim joints?

StangKiller
08-24-2006, 09:26 PM
If someone wanted zerk fittings, all they would have to do is request that and I think the up charge would be about $20.

The inside lining is a soft steel alloy bushing. It is designed to mush before the frame gives, but that would take one hell of a hit. I have hit some curbs on purpose at about 15 mph to see how they sit and they would great.

RodneyBur
08-24-2006, 09:54 PM
Bump.

Come on people. Some comments on why no one wants to buy these?


$$$$

96blackse
08-24-2006, 11:13 PM
Honestly, you need to have some nicer welds on those parts...
I was considering buying the rear bars until i saw the welds :eek:

CougarGuy939
08-24-2006, 11:50 PM
Bump.

Come on people. Some comments on why no one wants to buy these?
mainly because my fund for customizing has been depeleted for this season but i will be allover a set of lca's rear control bars, and the traction bars next season

Danef150
08-25-2006, 12:42 AM
Honestly, you need to have some nicer welds on those parts...
I was considering buying the rear bars until i saw the welds :eek:

The guy who did the powdercoating on my arms when they were bare said the welds looked good. I can make a perfect looking weld that wont hold worth a ****. Anyways i have had my LCA's installed for about 6 months now and hit potholes frequently and mine are holding up fine so i dont think its an issue quality. So your loss.

BigBalledOX
08-25-2006, 12:51 AM
The guy who did the powdercoating on my arms when they were bare said the welds looked good. I can make a perfect looking weld that wont hold worth a ****. Anyways i have had my LCA's installed for about 6 months now and hit potholes frequently and mine are holding up fine so i dont think its an issue quality. So your loss.

Bickety bam. I can't even think how many miles I've put on the car since they got on . . . easily several thousand.

96blackse
08-25-2006, 11:05 AM
That is funny. What is more funny is how after advertising on CEG, some of the other companies like SHOShop/Bros (newly organized) and SP have contacted me about carrying my parts instead of doing the sales myself!?!

But my quality sucks, so you know.

So now I get PM's :rolleyes:

Let me clear this up!

PERSONALLY! FROM WHAT I SEE IN THE PICTURE I wouln't want those welds on a part that holds my wheel onto the car... I wouldn't mind on a strut tower brace but not on suspension, that may be just me, i was just stating my opinion...
Are those welds even done by a certified welder?

StangKiller
08-25-2006, 04:15 PM
Yes, they are done by a certified welder. Someone who used to weld on structural fabrication until he started designing it.

FastCougar
09-06-2006, 08:26 PM
Maybe if you could "destroy" a "coupon" by cutting through it to show weld penetration (ALL that you should be concerned with), it might open a few eyes ;)

bensenvill
09-06-2006, 08:42 PM
I'd doubt it, some people are just ignorant and will not be swayed from their idiocy.

but its their loss.

streetfamemlf
09-06-2006, 09:15 PM
So i was looking to see if i had a 2 bolt or 4 bolt and it looks like to me that mine if a 4, its a 2001 so im guessing these aren't going to work. Can someone just clearify for me...

bensenvill
09-07-2006, 11:26 AM
So i was looking to see if i had a 2 bolt or 4 bolt and it looks like to me that mine if a 4, its a 2001 so im guessing these aren't going to work. Can someone just clearify for me...

no they will not work... stangkiller did show some interest in making 4-bolt versions but I think he was dissapointed in the feedback he recieved.

its my understanding that all early contours are 4-bolt, and 97-98ish they switched to 2-bolt until the end of their production run, and on the late model cougars, they switched back to the 4 bolt.

streetfamemlf
09-07-2006, 10:24 PM
well i'll buy a set if he wants to make them i will also send him mine if he needs them. I have my engine out right now and would like to install these before everything else goes back in.

topjoe
09-08-2006, 01:23 AM
Wow I would love a set but I will have to check if I have a 2 or 4 bolt LCA I have a 2000 ATX.

Could you PM a price for botht he LCA and rear toe arm shipped to Ontario Canada

thanks

StangKiller
09-11-2006, 10:59 PM
These parts are still for sale. Soon to be sold only through SHO Bros for definitely more than I am charging currently.

http://www.shobrosgarage.com/

cvsmightymouse24
09-11-2006, 11:12 PM
is there a special deal you can offer us if we buy both front and rear?

LinkMan
09-12-2006, 09:57 AM
I'm interested in the harness bar, but not for racing harnesses - in the hope it'd stiffen up the cabin. Kind of like a floor bar, but up where it's more useful.

Has anyone ever installed one and kept the stock seatbelts just by looping the belt over the bar? You'd lose the adjustable belt hangers, but...

Does that seem possible?

StangKiller
09-12-2006, 11:10 PM
If you buy both front and rears I would give a $25 discount on the whole cost.

I have done the setup with the harness bar and keeping the stock belts. You have to weld a nut on the lower belt slide to hold the adjusters in place. Which is not a big deal since you are not using it for racing harnesses. I think I have a set here with the nut welded on, PM if you are serious and I will check in my pile of spare parts.

sheldon729
10-14-2006, 01:21 AM
got any pics or the traction bars?


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