Got my chip today

[RodneyBur]

I picked up my SCT chip at a local supplier today' They burned it with these settings:

24# injectors
Secondaries removed
fans set on at 205* and off at 185*

The chip is set up to run in an SVT ECU coded SFG2 which I am installing tomorrow along with the chip.

I want to get it dyno-tuned as soon as the engine is broken in and all the small things are fixed.

Are there any suggestions with anything else I should do with the chip?

I was thinking about raising the rev limiter, but don't know how much. (SVT cams)

[jaged]

def raise the rev limitor, 7k i think but dont quote me on that though, and tune for an octane, 02 sensors?

[fordrule]

on a rebuilt 3l with st200 valve springs svt cams and rebuilt heads....what is the recomendation of it to handle.......

[StealthyWeasel]

raise that rev limiter and you will need alts even faster... I guess that small amount won't kill it that much.. but still.

[mond12345]

With that fan off temp i don't think the fans will ever shut off. Even with a 160 stat and SVT rad. But I'm not 100% sure.

With the rev limiter i would go as high as you want, in reason of course. As long as your making the power, use it. I have PnP heads, ST220 valve springs and SVT cams and play to run it to about 7200 cap as long as the dyno shows the power is being made. On stock Contour SVT's they are making there peak power at red line so the power is there to use.

You might want to shut off your lower O2 sensors even though you have mils.

[RodneyBur]

raise that rev limiter and you will need alts even faster... I guess that small amount won't kill it that much.. but still.

I have an underdrive pulley on the alternator but if it does go bad Im not that worried about it. I'll just get a lifetime warranty one from autozone. :biggrin:

With that fan off temp i don't think the fans will ever shut off. Even with a 160 stat and SVT rad. But I'm not 100% sure..

It was recommended by Dang I believe. If they seem to run too much then I may have it adjusted when i go back. especially If I can see any difference in the temp guage. Right now the gauge sets in the middle, maybe a hair higher, but there is an awful lot of heat in the engine bay and I'm hoping the fan settings will bring it down a bit. I also don't have an SVT radiator yet and using non-wrapper WR, which maybe the cause. :banghead: I checked the water pump and had to replace the 160 T-stat (which was faulty) with a 170 (all they had in stock).



You might want to shut off your lower O2 sensors even though you have mils.

I thought about this but forgot to ask the guy if he could do it. Thanks for the reminder. :thumbsup:

As far as the rev limiter, I plan on bumping it up alittle but not too the point where it is maxing out the power. I don't plan on seeing that high of revs to often and it is more of just a dyno thing to see how much power I can produce. :biggrin: So a good point for me would probably be about 7k-7.1k? Does anyone know the stock rev limiter of an SVT?

[mond12345]

Stock rev limit on the the SVT is the same as us. I would go to 7K. With the underdrive alt pulley you should be fine.

Use the temp gauge in diag mode since its digital. I really don't think you will get the temp to go that low. Stock stat is what? 195. My car runs at 193-196 during regular driving.

[ilovemycar]

raise that rev limiter and you will need alts even faster... I guess that small amount won't kill it that much.. but still.


I run mine to 7250-7300 daily and it's fine.....and mine even has 130,000+ miles on it...;)

[TrackCat]

I would get a real temp gauge the factory unit is not good for what you will be doning. Is the Piston, connecting Rod, Cams, and Valve spring rated to handle you rising the Rev limiter?? If you dyno it you will see a point where you will start to lose power that should be where you set the rev limiter

[posthuman63t]

I would get a real temp gauge the factory unit is not good for what you will be doning. Is the Piston, connecting Rod, Cams, and Valve spring rated to handle you rising the Rev limiter?? If you dyno it you will see a point where you will start to lose power that should be where you set the rev limiter

Taken from DemonSVT's website:

http://home.kc.rr.com/newshore/Cars/Info/RPM.html

RPM Limits and their Effects



I've pretty much narrowed down the rpm limits.



Up to 6500rpm is safe with almost anything. Yes even including a UDP crank pulley.

You will get increased component wear with a UDP and it should "technically" lower the longevity of the engine.

Hard to "really" prove how much it will affect longevity though. Kind of like saying your engine will last only 120k instead of 150k when driving style and maintenance will have more of an effect on longevity.





6500-7500 rpm is an area were increased wear could happen but is still within the safe limits.

A UDP will exaggerate this increased wear to a point I would consider it to now be causing a notable longevity loss. Again hard to really "prove" how much. 100k instead of 150k - It's all really speculation.

I would consider synthetic oil and a K&N filter a must have at this level.





7200-7500rpm is the last range I would call truly "usable". By 7500rpm you are reaching the point where crank whip is a serious problem and an ultra light UDP can definitely cause more problems.

I added this as a subsection to the 6500-7500 range because the final 300rpm really do make a difference for certain components.

For instance I would consider Clevite rod bearings as a must have when passing 7200rpm. Probably passing 7000rpm really.



Above 7500rpm and your engine is in a downward spiral due to the weak rod bearings, crank whip, and the fact you are just physically surpassing the mechanical limit of the component's material. (roughly 7650rpm) Expect a serious increase in oil consumption and early rod bearing failure.



Also all this talk about the stock rods being weak is completely unfounded. I don't know where it started but it's just not true. A sinter forged rod actually has a more stable grain pattern then normal forged steel making the parts more consistent across the piece and giving at least the same material strength if not greater comparably. It's rate of elasticity is also within 1% of a comparable typical forging.



The stock rods, pistons (with revised ring lands - 00+), and rings are easily capable of supporting 400 HP safely.



The stock components also can handle ultra high rpm (8100) and banging the rev limiter hundreds (thousands really - I lost count long ago) of times too.



Like I stated it's the rods bearings that are the weak point when rpm levels are raised. Crank whip is also a factor as the destructive harmonics when you pass 7000 rpm are just deadly and the rod bearings suffer the most.



You also have to take into account the high rpm oiling issues as well. All it takes is a flicker of oil pressure at high rpm to pick up a stock rod bearing due to the minimum clearance and their rock hard composition.

[DemonSVT]

That's almost a bit funny now. (eh Tom)

I first put that info online 3 years ago. I had it in my notes well before that.

It was not until a few months ago that my calculated 400 wheel HP limit was "proven" correct. (reality verses theory - Tom's ex-car/Ray's new-car hit 410+ on a stock 01+ 3L) I had proven the old rpm limit theory many years ago.

Funny how that goes with most everything Tom and I have said verses... ;)


Sorry for my soap box and now back to the original post...

[warmonger]

:rofl:

Nice to see your head out of work once in a while.

Yes, I'm completely comfortable with using stock rods for any of the "Usable" power levels that the Cougar/Contour chassis can take in street/strip trim. Thats not to say I would stick with them if building a real FWD drag racer pull 1000+ HP though.

[RodneyBur]

Ok. I did all the swaps and testing today. First I put the SVT SFG2 ECU in and could tell a difference from the stock ECU. It definately ran a liuttle smoother. I then installed the Chip and I could tell a difference from the SVT program. It seemed to run alot smoother at higher rpms and pick up rpms faster. The fans kicked on sooner, but but of them kicked on instead of just the one. I'll have to get that fixed where they kick on at different intervals. One thing I noticed switching from the stock ECU to SVT ECU and Chipped SVT ECU is that the car runs really strange at partial throttle say around 2k keeping it steady. It runs really rough there and is strange. The car also doesn't pull nearly as hard as I thought it would, but haven't really tapped its full potential above 3-4k. I'm thinking that the guy may have made a mistake with either removing the secondaries or with the 24#injectors. That is the only explanation that I can come up with. any ideas? I'll try to get a video tomorrow.

Oh. I got 14 miles on her and must say that son ***** is LOUD as hell. Wondering what I mean by loud as hell? Think of a dual prop airplane with straight pipes. Its that ****ing loud. I'm hoping to get the exhaust welded up tomorrow but don't think small leak after the muffler will make a difference, but adding that second tailpipe will be sweet as hell. Oh yea.

I also forgot to mention that I don't have any check engine lights coming on for any reason. The only light that coming on is the damn low coolant level light which I have been frantically trying to fix. I'm gonna search around and try to get a new sensor.

[mond12345]

For the coolant and you need to do is keep it 1/2" to 1" over the max line. It has been discussed many times.